Can't rev above 5k rpm and go faster than 65

I've read here numerous times that the factory airbox is best but I never got to try it on my '78. It's airboxes were trashed so I went with pods right from the start. I started with real K&Ns but could never get it tuned quite right. Then I read about the UNIs, tried them, and it's all good now. When I got my '83, it came with the factory airboxes installed so I decided to try them and see if what I'd read was true. I ran them for about a year then put the pods on. It runs just as good with the pods, so it wasn't better with the airboxes. But, it may not run as well if you don't get the carbs tuned and jetted correctly. You can't just slap pods on without jetting changes and expect it to run as good as it did with the airbox.
 
So basically what I’m getting from this thread is that I need to put the stock filters back on?
You could switch to VM carbs and keep your pods but wouldn't you like to know if the pods are the problem before you go spending money on different pods that might not work?

Also, are your spark plugs tips white, black, or somewhere in between?
 
Vacuum carburetors can be very sensitive to HOW the air enters them. I had a '71 Honda 350 production racer that would not rev past 8000 rpms with open carburetors or screened velocity stacks. Once I put on the little rubber boots that normally connect to the stock air filters that thing would climb right on up to 10K! Still has the stacks in the pic.
 

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So basically what I’m getting from this thread is that I need to put the stock filters back on?

Honestly i dont think that is your problem............Wont hurt to try.

Before when you took the Pleated air-filter off you, said you gained 1k and 5mph.........If 1k = 1,000 revs and only gained 5mph that could indicate a slipping clutch.............do you know what a slipping clutch is??
 
Don't know how much plainer we can make it, TJ and Skull; the First Rule of Carburetor Tuning and Repair is "Everything else first." But if they won't hear it, they're gonna feel it. BTW to say that the BS series carbs perform best with a still air box is not to say that large volume pods don't work; they simply don't work as well.
 
I was all for the removal of the pleated filters and running with no pods............if only for diagnostics and it cost nothing but a little time.............the answer from that run gave us more information...............what i am surprised about is no one picked up on 1,000 revs = 5mph and what does that say/imply ??
 
On my 1980 stock well slightly rejeted carbs. I run stock air boxes w towel cloth wrapped d around the frames of stock filters and baffles removed. Work great.
 
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