Casing Stud Adhesive

[Bewarethemoon]

I’ve recently removed all the studs from the crank cases prior to sending them out for bead blasting.

When the time comes to reinsert the studs what adhesive compound would you gentlemen recommend? Something from the Loctite range or something else? Any ideas what Yamaha used in the factory?

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Daniel.

 

[Boog]

I apologize up front, casting for studs meant something different when I was stationed in San Diego.

But for serious thought, Locktite blue and red may be you choices and for heat related engine stuff, I think the red is better suited. Here is a link to both for your decision making process.

https://www.loctiteproducts.com/en/...ts/specialty/loctite_threadlockerblue242.html

https://www.loctiteproducts.com/en/...cts/specialty/loctite_threadlockerred271.html

 

[gggGary]

Yeah what Yammie used is tough. In the race manual the top of the studs are screwdriver slotted and I presume no thread locker used so a top job can be done without removing the motor from the frame.

 

[Bewarethemoon]

Yeah what Yammie used is tough. In the race manual the top of the studs are screwdriver slotted and I presume no thread locker used so a top job can be done without removing the motor from the frame.

Tell me about it Gary, I found about 2 1/2 minutes of heat to be the thing. The cylinder barrel studs really hold on!

Daniel.

 

[RustiePyles]

Loctite 290 Blue is wicking medium strength, this what I would use. It can be applied with bolts/studs in place without removal.

 

[gggGary]

Kind of interesting, modern stud tech
http://www.wilmink.nl/cilinderkop/cilinderkopbouten_Engels.pdf

 

[Bewarethemoon]

I’ll have look at that tonight, looks interesting!

Perhaps I’ll show my machinist!

 

[Signal]

I have been using Loctite blue, you dont want the studs to come out when you take the nut off on the other hand you also dont want to battle to get them out if you need to.

 

[Jim]

In the race manual the top of the studs are screwdriver slotted and I presume no thread locker used so a top job can be done without removing the motor from the frame.

Gonna do that on my big bore build. Swapping out go fast parts without removing the motor? What's not to like.

 

[Mailman]

Swapping out go fast parts without removing the motor? What's not to like.

I’ve often thought that the XS650 should’ve been built with a bolt in upper frame backbone. Could you imagine how easy that would’ve made it to replace a leaking head gasket?

 

[gggGary]

Keep thinking I'd like to have 5mm hex sockets in the top of the studs....
Ut oh I'm a R

 

[Jim]

Keep thinking I'd like to have 5mm hex sockets in the top of the studs....
Ut oh I'm a R

Well, in keeping with the hijack... That's along the lines of what I'm thinkin'. Since I don't have a mill, put 'em in the Atlas and broach the flats.

 

[kopcicle]

 

[kopcicle]

... gggGary likes this.
after less than a minute

stalker

 

[gggGary]

TOT videos; You've been warned!
It's just a co-incidence.............

 

[Jim]

TOT to the rescue. He's da man. Off to search for rotary broaches.... which I prolly can't afford.

 

[gggGary]

TOT to the rescue. He's da man. Off to search for rotary broaches.... which I prolly can't afford.

I'll send a set of studs for you to learn on return shipping provided.

 

[kopcicle]

http://www.hemingwaykits.com/acatalog/Compact_Rotary_Broach.html
And I have a few thoughts on the tool grinding required.
Hint: I have, on occasion, used a large nut, secured with a draw bar, on the back of the tailstock, as a 60 degree reference, with a box end wrench as a stop arm. Think about it.
The rest is any kind of tool post grinder > are you listening @TwoManyXS1Bs ?>
The tool requirements are fairly specific as to dimension, specifically length from holder, and size.
I'll leave the grinder and compound angles as an exorcise (heh) for the user :- )

 

[kopcicle]

It's just a co-incidence.............

yeah, right, as I always suspected.
Actually, Gary , see above. It's something I wanted to discuss with a few of you for a minute as I saw a Hemingway rotary broach made and having no "real tool grinder" available we found a kludge.
All it really takes is fastening a a high speed stone to the tool post any old way you can.
@TwoManyXS1Bs addressed this in the truing up a 3 jaw chuck post a while back.
then...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Astro-Pneu...589727&hash=item4d9365ddb2:g:tKoAAOSwdttgTlnp

Left as a reference NOT as an endorsement. YMMV

 

[Bewarethemoon]

Well, in keeping with the hijack... That's along the lines of what I'm thinkin'. Since I don't have a mill, put 'em in the Atlas and broach the flats.

So general consensus is that having the cylinder barrel studs broached wild a good idea?

My machinist has broached for me before (Titanium Rocker Shaft screws) so we could definitely do this.

Would there not be issues when torquing down the head? I suppose the studs would be fine once fully seated as it would take a greater torque to damage the threads or the casing driving them in further then it would to get things with torque specs’?

Daniel.