Clutch activation lever.

[toglhot]

My TX came with a bunch of spare parts, rubbish mostly. Included was a beaten up clutch activation lever which I think was of an earlier model or some other bike. The distance between the pushrod hole and nipple hole was only 30mm, whereas the one on the bike was 35mm, so not much use to me, so I took it apart.

The screw part was a bit bashed around on both the screw and the dustcover. After taking it apart, I cleaned up the screw part, turned the other end down a bit, fashioned a lever and welded it to the screw. For the dust cap I turned up one with a lip to retain the rubber seal. Not sure if the seal is of any use though, as soon as the clutch lever is pulled, the seal clears the female screw housing anyway.

Anyway, that done I drilled a hole for the clevis nipple housing and turned up a new pin. I drilled the nipple clevis pin hole 10mm further away from the screw than the original actuator. Clutch action is a lot lighter and you can actually feel the plates separating.

 

[GLJ]

@toglhot you might want to read this. I did some tests with a 72 clutch lever vs a Magura power lever and different worms. Not wanting to start a war just thought you might want to look at it.
https://www.xs650.com/threads/magura-clutch-lever-and-aluminum-pushrod.56574/

 

[toglhot]

The main things that make a difference are the handlebar clutch lever's distance between pivot bolt and nipple insert, the closer they are together the less the cable pulls and the easier the lever is to pull in. The length of the lever also comes into play, providing your hands are big enough and fingers long enough to use a longer lever, it's called 'the law of leverage'.

On the clutch actuating lever inside the left side cove, the longer the lever the less it will push the pushrod and the less the plates will separate. Thus making the clutch pull lighter.

On the clutch lever to actuating lever ratio, if the distance between pivot bolt and nipple insert on the handlebar lever is shorter that the the actuating lever's distance between screw and nipple insert, the easier the clutch lever pull and the less the pushrod will move.

Since the ratio between the clutch lever distance and the actuating lever distance is greater (30mm to 45mm. Stock is 30mm to 35mm) then the pushrod will not separate the plates as much as on a stock setup, so absolutely no chance of the pressure plate hitting inside the right side cover. Whether the plates separate enough for the clutch to work can only be ascertained by running the bike. However, as I had the right side cover off when checking the operation of the longer actuating lever I can say the plates are separated enough for the clutch to work.