So I'm new to the xs650 and I have a 1977. I was trying to wire the neutral switch. While I was doing this I had to put it in gear to test. I noticed that even with the clutch pulled the bike wouldn't roll back very much. I read in old posts that I need to do a clutch adjustment. But it feels like the rear drum is what is stopping it from rolling back. I have zero problems in neutral. So my question is. Is it the clutch adjustment or the brake that's my problem?
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Clutch adjustment
- Thread starter crybinsk
- Start date
Hello.
I would reset the rear brake if you think that’s a problem. Once done put the bike in neutral and try to move it back and forth on it wheels, or just spin the rear wheel with the bike on the centre stand. If it’s free then look to adjust the clutch action.
If the bike moves with ‘zero problem’ in neutral then its a clutch issue probably.
Check the Tech Section for clutch advice.
I would reset the rear brake if you think that’s a problem. Once done put the bike in neutral and try to move it back and forth on it wheels, or just spin the rear wheel with the bike on the centre stand. If it’s free then look to adjust the clutch action.
If the bike moves with ‘zero problem’ in neutral then its a clutch issue probably.
Check the Tech Section for clutch advice.
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These bikes are difficult to roll around in gear with the clutch pulled in, engine off, because they have quite a lot of clutch plate drag. So yes, a good and proper adjustment may help, but it's never going to push around as easily as when it's in neutral.
The worm gear couldn't be any farther away from the clutch if they tried, lol, clear on the other side of the motor from where the clutch is mounted. The two are connected by a series of mostly steel balls and rods. The alloy cases expand at a different rate and more than these steel rods and balls, and that introduces more freeplay in the clutch lever as the bike warms up. The clutch plate separation is barely enough when the motor is cold so when it gets hot and the clutch lever has less travel (which means even less plate separation), problems can arise. Typically, it gets harder to find neutral at a stop, and the plates can even start dragging.
So, many of us set the clutch adjustment tighter than the spec to help avoid these problems. Start by loosening the adjuster up at the hand lever all the way, putting as much freeplay as possible in the cable. Now, adjust as much of that freeplay out as you can by using the adjuster screw down on the worm gear. While adjusting that screw, I employ a technique I call "fanning" the clutch lever. I pump the lever in and out but only through it's freeplay range. In other words, I don't pull the lever all the way in and disengage the clutch. What this does is tightly stacks all the balls and pushrods together, squeezing any oil or grease out from between them. If you keep turning the adjuster screw in as you do this, you'll often get it another quarter turn or so tighter. Only after doing this do I back the screw out and tighten the locknut. The book says back it out 1/4 turn but I only go about 1/8 turn. Then I finish by adjusting any remaining slack out of the cable up at the lever. And I make it pretty tight, with virtually no freeplay. I do this on a cold motor and I've never had any issues with the clutch being adjusted too tight. As soon as you start the bike and it begins to warm up, more freeplay will naturally develop in the lever.
Now you may have read about how some guys will adjust their clutch lever tighter when the bike gets hot to eliminate the extra freeplay. But then they have to loosen it again when the bike is cold or the adjustment will be too tight. Well, set it snug or tight enough to begin with and you won't have to do that. That one adjustment point should work for you with both a cold and hot motor. It may take some tinkering and fooling around to find this "sweet spot", but it can be done.
The worm gear couldn't be any farther away from the clutch if they tried, lol, clear on the other side of the motor from where the clutch is mounted. The two are connected by a series of mostly steel balls and rods. The alloy cases expand at a different rate and more than these steel rods and balls, and that introduces more freeplay in the clutch lever as the bike warms up. The clutch plate separation is barely enough when the motor is cold so when it gets hot and the clutch lever has less travel (which means even less plate separation), problems can arise. Typically, it gets harder to find neutral at a stop, and the plates can even start dragging.
So, many of us set the clutch adjustment tighter than the spec to help avoid these problems. Start by loosening the adjuster up at the hand lever all the way, putting as much freeplay as possible in the cable. Now, adjust as much of that freeplay out as you can by using the adjuster screw down on the worm gear. While adjusting that screw, I employ a technique I call "fanning" the clutch lever. I pump the lever in and out but only through it's freeplay range. In other words, I don't pull the lever all the way in and disengage the clutch. What this does is tightly stacks all the balls and pushrods together, squeezing any oil or grease out from between them. If you keep turning the adjuster screw in as you do this, you'll often get it another quarter turn or so tighter. Only after doing this do I back the screw out and tighten the locknut. The book says back it out 1/4 turn but I only go about 1/8 turn. Then I finish by adjusting any remaining slack out of the cable up at the lever. And I make it pretty tight, with virtually no freeplay. I do this on a cold motor and I've never had any issues with the clutch being adjusted too tight. As soon as you start the bike and it begins to warm up, more freeplay will naturally develop in the lever.
Now you may have read about how some guys will adjust their clutch lever tighter when the bike gets hot to eliminate the extra freeplay. But then they have to loosen it again when the bike is cold or the adjustment will be too tight. Well, set it snug or tight enough to begin with and you won't have to do that. That one adjustment point should work for you with both a cold and hot motor. It may take some tinkering and fooling around to find this "sweet spot", but it can be done.
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AUTOMAN
XS650 Addict
or aluminum pushrods
AUTOMAN
XS650 Addict
? clutch push rod(s)
what could be easier?
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