Clutch Basket Nut Trying to Strip

[Ole Blue 73]

Putting clutch back together after doing starter fix and the bolt that holds the clutch basket down is trying to strip. If I remove the large lock washer the bolt will start and tighten so the inner threads seem to still be in good condition. I can not press the lock washer flat enough to get to good threads. I have seen other XS650s with locking tabs instead of a lock washer like mine. Is it possible to substitute a locking tab from a later bike instead of my lock washer to get the nut on and into good threads? Any better ideas for a good fix would also be appreciated. This thing has me sweating because if it strips out I for see a very difficult repair.

 

[5twins]

Are you sure you don't have too many washers in the assembly, and are they in the right places?

I don't think you can fit the later locking tab type washer because your older inner basket doesn't have the notches for the washer's tabs to fit into ......

But you could probably swap in the later inner basket with the notches, do a 7 plate to 6 plate upgrade conversion. I did this to my '78 and quite like it. The 6 plate clutch with it's spring-loaded bottom steel damper plate engages smoother on take-off in first. My original 7 plate unit always let out with a bit of a "clunk" at the end of it's engagement.

What year is the bike/clutch assembly, and what type of lock washer do you have? There were two types used. Early bikes had a big plain split ring type and later bikes used a cone type Belleville washer. I think the later one is thinner ......

 

[gggGary]

You might want to use a new nut, fuggle the threaded end of that shaft and your day is ruined.
Check the threads on the nut you are using.
pic of the threads on the shaft?

 

[grouchie77]

fuggle

I learned a new word today

 

[Ole Blue 73]

5twins I used the thread you posted from and I am sure that the washers are now in the correct position and correct size. I was afraid the tab might not work on early baskets. The bike is a 73 TX650, but it has been gone through previously. I assume it has the correct parts in it, definitely has seven frictions in the clutch. The lock washer is a large split ring and not the cone. Getting a new nut is a good idea, eliminates one variable. My 27mm socket has too much space to put pressure on the nut, I thought I might put some washers in the socket so that I could put inward pressure on the nut and maybe get it on enough to start. Before I tore into it the clutch was stiff, but worked perfectly fine.

 

[gggGary]

Before I tore into it the clutch was stiff, but worked perfectly fine.

This might help. https://www.xs650.com/threads/home-market-tx650-going-to-soir.66443/post-882186
There are short and long arm actuators the long arm type (or hole on the MikesXS unit) reduce the pull effort.
https://www.mikesxs.net/yamaha-xs65...-214-16379-00-132-16346-00-0-91401-10010.html

 

[GLJ]

The bike is a 73 TX650, but it has been gone through previously. I assume it has the correct parts in it, definitely has seven frictions in the clutch.

A 73 should have only 6 friction plates. If using 256 friction plates.

 

[Ole Blue 73]

GLJ you are absolutely right, Partzillas diagram shows 6 frictions and I have 7. This bike was in long term storage in California and the previous owner went through it and made it operational. I do not know what parts may have been easier to get during the repairs. The 1974 TX650 has a 7 friction clutch and uses a cone washer instead of a split ring lock. It is possible I have that clutch. Would you know if there is a part number on the basket that would identify exactly what clutch is installed. I may need to pull it all back apart and do a more detailed inspection before proceeding.

 

[bosco659]

Split lock washers of that diameter are going to be quite thick. I’d find a thinner washer - the Belleville type as on my bike are fairly thin. I’d clean the shaft well of any contaminants and with a new nut, assemble to proper torque and use red Loctite. If the threads on the shaft are damaged, measure from the clutch basket out to where the good threads end. Then you’ll know how much space you have for the washer and nut