@Kevin Werner said ..."I routed my clutch cable like I remembered Jim showing me." @Jim, care to share to enlighten me (insert head scratching emoji) and maybe some others?
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Clutch Cable Routing
- Thread starter atom4488
- Start date
Sure... long sweeping curves. simple as that, really. It's not the most direct route, it's the route that requires allows the largest cable radius on each bend, while minimizing the number of bends.
This is my SG routing before I swapped out the tiller bars, but the same idea applies to any bike... find the routing that gives you the loosest, largest radius bends possible. The way the routing in the pic runs, it has the added advantage of being removable without removing the tank. It's not tied up anywhere... doesn't need to be. Stays in place just fine.
Apologies to anyone expecting the recipe to the magic potion... there ain't none. It just takes persistance and time. I prolly spent half a day and hundreds of combinations before I decided that try #37 of 100 was the best combo and that's how I set it. When I put Honda CB bars on it, I had to repeat the process. Much easier the second go around. Too dark for pic right now, I'll try and remember to get some of the current routing in the morning.
This is my SG routing before I swapped out the tiller bars, but the same idea applies to any bike... find the routing that gives you the loosest, largest radius bends possible. The way the routing in the pic runs, it has the added advantage of being removable without removing the tank. It's not tied up anywhere... doesn't need to be. Stays in place just fine.
Apologies to anyone expecting the recipe to the magic potion... there ain't none. It just takes persistance and time. I prolly spent half a day and hundreds of combinations before I decided that try #37 of 100 was the best combo and that's how I set it. When I put Honda CB bars on it, I had to repeat the process. Much easier the second go around. Too dark for pic right now, I'll try and remember to get some of the current routing in the morning.
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cycleranger
Generally Ok.
Here's the cable routing diagrams. I believe this is for pre-'78? models.
And for stock bars so it may not apply in every case.
And for stock bars so it may not apply in every case.
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This is exactly how mine is routed on the Bug Killer, which also has buckhorns. One of the best reasons for being a member of the Buckhorn Club. If you have Euro, Daytona, SuperBike, etc. bars, you will find that a good route is much more difficult to find and less satisfactory. I never could find a route to my satisfaction on the Superior RustBucket (stockish handlebars), which is why I went to the hydraulic clutch on it.
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@cycleranger, thanks for posting the routing diagrams. As @DogBunny says, routing with bars other than buckhorns may be more of a challenge. I'll have to see how it works best on with my non-standard bars.
The stock routing, as shown in those diagrams, goes between the carbs.
When routing for bars like in the diagram, I usually go from lever, through forks, ending up on right side of frame. Then, go right through the top motor mounts, crossing over to left side of frame. Go into case, cable remaining to the left of the carbs. Depending on what cable you use, you sometimes have to straighten out the chrome elbow where the cable goes into the case a little -- 5twins has some posts on this. For some reason this all works out a lot better on 1974 and later frames.
When routing for bars like in the diagram, I usually go from lever, through forks, ending up on right side of frame. Then, go right through the top motor mounts, crossing over to left side of frame. Go into case, cable remaining to the left of the carbs. Depending on what cable you use, you sometimes have to straighten out the chrome elbow where the cable goes into the case a little -- 5twins has some posts on this. For some reason this all works out a lot better on 1974 and later frames.
Yep, with the smaller bars on there it's definitely more challenging. Main reason being the Motion Pro cable is a one size fits all affair and while it's about perfect for a Special with the buckhorns on it, it's too long for the smaller bars.
What I ended up settling for isn't as good as it was with the buckhorns, but it's pretty close. @Kevin Werner will vouch for the easy pull.
Routing goes down between the gauge mount (at the triple), behind the headlight bucket and down in front of the lower triple. From there it runs back as before. Since it's too long, it sits lower as it goes aft.... about 2" or so more than the previous routing. Tried a lot of different ways, but it always fell in line with the side reflector. I finally cut a slot in the reflector mount and ran it through the middle of it.
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I believe there’s only one OE cable available anymore. It’s the one that fits the Special. I put 8” rise Triumph bars on a a Special and the cable is still perfect. I just replaced that one with similar, but wider. Cable is still perfect. You can always work with too long. Too short, not so much. There’s always custom.
After many hours of trying to get the easy clutch pull, I’m thinking I won’t be able to get a real easy pull because the cable is too long for my shorter bars. Does anyone know of a source for custom length cables? Or should I just try to mod one myself. I used to fix cables when I was a younger feller but that was on smaller dirt bikes. The XS has a much harder pull so maybe a DYI cable won’t stand up to the extra stress.
Edit. Just googled this and Motion pro makes custom cables
Edit. Just googled this and Motion pro makes custom cables
xswillie
XS650 Enthusiast
Who has an opinion on hydraulic clutch lines to replace cable?
A number of members have written and or done it here.
I’ve wanted to do this for a while. I may have a go at it this winter.
In the meantime I’m going to measure the ideal length of cable for my bike and bars and get a quote from Motion. I’ll let the group know how much and delivery time. I think it will be fairly easy to order it because the ends and fittings will be the same as the stock cable and it’s only the overall length that changes (cable and outer jacket).
In the meantime I’m going to measure the ideal length of cable for my bike and bars and get a quote from Motion. I’ll let the group know how much and delivery time. I think it will be fairly easy to order it because the ends and fittings will be the same as the stock cable and it’s only the overall length that changes (cable and outer jacket).
There is a very easy optional routing I use which doesn’t ever get discussed.
In the case of having no air box halves in the way, a Motion Pro cable is a good length to run down the right side of the frame and then NOT in front of the frame down tube behind the carburetors but actually BEHIND that frame tube ! The then easy bend radius route to the left cover cable hole is nice.
I’ve searched for my 650E pics of this I once described but can’t find ‘em
In the case of having no air box halves in the way, a Motion Pro cable is a good length to run down the right side of the frame and then NOT in front of the frame down tube behind the carburetors but actually BEHIND that frame tube ! The then easy bend radius route to the left cover cable hole is nice.
I’ve searched for my 650E pics of this I once described but can’t find ‘em
Interesting. Pics would be great!
Yes, pics are nice. That bike is sold and gone so no more pics.
With those low bars I believe it would turn out well to try though. And those aftermarket carbs / filters combined would be a unique recipe, like the rest of your bike.
Anyway, on my next project I’ll again be running the Motion Pro cable in front of the left fork tube, across behind the headlight to the right side of the steering stem, follow the frame tube above the tank mount dropping slightly to the rear of that frame down tube , thru the Uni Pods / BS38’s and smoothly across again to the left cover cable hole.
I’ll post pics again someday and will wait for the
’s 
My other challenge is space constraints behind the gauges.
There is no reason to go behind the gauges. That’s just ugliness lol.
Go in front of the left fork tube and under the gauges behind the bucket to the right side of the frame above the tank puck.
Go in front of the left fork tube and under the gauges behind the bucket to the right side of the frame above the tank puck.
I’ll look but I believe the angle of my bars and clutch lever perch won’t allow it, while maintaining a smooth bend.
Fwiw Vic, I don't see any ugly when I look at your instrument cluster. Looks pretty snazzy to me.
