Clutch Engagement Issues

[BigChopperPoppa]

Hey everyone, I'll start out by thanking these forums for the plethora of knowledge I've gained from this site. I've searched many threads throughout my build but have now come across a problem that needs asking.

I have a 1984 heritage up in Canada. Motor is all original spec. I recently finished up my chopper build and had a foot clutch setup that I did not enjoy, although it functioned well I was getting some hard grabbing at the end of the friction zone. This led me to rebuild the plates as I'm not sure their age/condition and convert back to a hand operated clutch for the mostly city riding I do.

I replaced the worm gear assembly (out of the 2 holes on the actuator my cable is on the lowest one). Triple checked my steel ball is in the worm gear with the adjuster screw. I inspected my push rod (single piece) and the seal/bushing is great. The steel ball after the pushrod is also there, along with the final big flat round t headed piece that actually pushes on the clutch assembly.

I'm rocking 6 new fiber plates and 5 steel plates, I inspected the beveled ring and steel spring loaded plate behind the retaining wire (checked it's thickness and re assembled everything behind that retaining wire) and then slid the fibre and steels (sharp side in) as necessary. I upgraded the clutch bolts and new springs from xs650 direct. I have a new extended cable as well routed with no resistance or sharp curves.

So here's the thing: I put everything together with attention, adjusted the worm gear to spec, started the bike and shifted into first gear and it jolted to a stall. Removed the right side cover to inspect the clutch to notice that upon pulling the cable I get almost zero movement in the basket, but I have a full lever action that feels like the clutch is disengaged. I have to really crank on the worm gear adjuster tight before I get any kind of decent movement. I tightened the adjuster untill I could feel the plates move under my index finger then backed it out every so slightly, assembled the cover, then at that point I could get it into gear and ride it. I have zero slack in the lever doing this, and once warm the bike either drags in gear at a stop and is insanely hard to shift , or adjusting farther causes slipping under throttle. I had to adjust the clutch 3 times on my way home from my buddy's place.

Here's what I had thought of so far: pulling my lever in all the way hits my grip, there's still a lot of movement in the lever but it is something I noticed. It's a generic lever I grabbed from our parts bin at work, but I'd be surprised if that caused an issue with the amount of action I do actually have.

2nd thing to try is moving the cable on the worm gear to the second higher hole for different cable action right at the worm gear?

And finally, my stock spec extended cable is actually on the longer side for my chopper, is it worth finding a stock length or shorter spec cable? (Not sure as I am able to adjust all the way in at the lever then take up slack at the worm gear. But it's possible the extended cable from xs650 direct is no bueno despite new?

Any input is greatly appreciated!

 

[Sky King]

I've been struggling with clutch problems since back in June when I bought my 75. first it was extremely hard pull for the lever then I took it apart went through everything put it back together and still hard pull plus then it slipped badly. It is apart again but what i found with mine is there is only one position out of six where the pressure plate freely indexes with the basket, rotate one or more position and it binds and won't fully bottom. This test is with no springs or plates just sliding the pressure plate into the basket.This has to play hell with the clutch engagement as the whole assembly binds if not indexed to that position. I am still waiting on some other parts before I can button it up and try it out but I do have that position marked and think I have found the problem with my clutch. I put it down to a wear issue or me not spotting a reference to that in my shop manual or poor machining from the factory. I know the PO had it apart before me and when he reassembled it that is where the problem started.

 

[Wagner73]

I think what you may be referring to is aligning the dot and dimple on the pressure plate and basket.

Very important and there's a lot of info on this site about it if you search.

 

[Sky King]

I think what you may be referring to is aligning the dot and dimple on the pressure plate and basket.

Very important and there's a lot of info on this site about it if you search.

I went out to the shop and had a look, I found the hole and the mark and yes they were lined up with what I found by trial and error. I'm not a master mechanic or have worked on hundreds of bikes but this is the first time I have come across a clutch basket of the ones I have done that were set up this way, I wonder how many other bikes out there are built the same as this? My XS has been a learning experience. I thought it was an easy job but I should have scanned the tech section first.

 

[BigChopperPoppa]

Throughout the years there's been 3 types of clutch setups on these bikes, there's threads here explaining the differences! I ended up switching to the top hole on the worm gear, bending my lever out a little but, and adjustungbthe clutch slack when engine was hot. Seemed to have helped with my issue, but still don't have your standard 1/8 play at the lever for it to not drag in 1st. I'll update thusnthread when I've done some more testing! Thanks for the pow wows

 

[BigChopperPoppa]

I've swapped out to a shorter clutch cable, and have it adjusted pretty snug. Ultimately once the bike has warmed up, there's a sweet spot that can be had with the adjuster in the clutch perch. Just make sure your basket window and hole are lined up, all your balls are in order, and you cable is in good condition. Now its time to move on to dialing these vm34's on my bike. Thanks all and happy wrenching.