Clutch flew apart - retaining wire went south

LTGTR

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Looking for some help please.
The retaining wire on my 6 plate clutch (the type with the retaining wire and the sprung cushion bottom) came out of its groove and made a mess of the bottom friction plate and scratched up a few other bits including the special thick bottom steel plate.
I understand the benefits of the 6 plate clutch (smoother take off and gentle on the 6 cushion springs) but I am thinking of going back to a 7 plate style.
I have saved, over the years, all the good info on the different clutch arrangements and I think I have it by the balls but just want you guys to confirm please.
Question is - to convert from 6 plate to 7 plate I would only need to change the centre boss and add one friction and one steel plate.
Studying all the info I can find I cannot see any difference in the outer basket or the pressure plate.
Just to keep it simple - I am not converting to an 8 plate and I realise I will get a slightly jerky take off with the 7 plater.
Regards Ray.
p.s. when I rebuilt the motor about 6 months ago I was the one that fitted the retaining wire and I remember at the time one of the ends was a bit daggy - so I have to eat humble pie.
 
Yes, that's all you need to do is replace the inner hub with a 7 plate type and add the extra required plates. But I'd consider repairing the 6 plate set-up because it is easier on the cush springs and, as you mentioned, it does engage smoother.
 
I don't want to pile on but issues other than slippage are very rare with the later 6 plate clutches.

i haven't noticed the difference in engagement between the 6 and 7 plate units. My 8 plate conversion can be a bit grumpy on the first engagement after start up. I think that doesn't happen if I hold in the clutch for a bit when I first shift into gear.
 
Twins and Gary - many thanks for the reply. I know it doesnt make sense but Im a bit gun shy (pussy) of the retaining wire now but I have to admit I havent read of any failures (other than mine - which i can only see was my own fault).
I now have the knowledge to easily swap between the two types if I wish.
My other (bigger) concern is the friction material that got stripped off one side of the bottom friction plate ended up plastered all over the top oil filter.
I can only guess the dislocated wire did it.
I am now shitting myself that I still had an oil supply to the motor. The bit I dont understand is the bottom filter had hardly any of the shredded friction material stuck to it - so how did the top filter end up with so much as its next in the path after the bottom filter. The bottom filter has no tearing/hole at all.
Thanks you guys for your help and advice.
Ray.
 
Twins and Gary - many thanks for the reply. I know it doesnt make sense but Im a bit gun shy (pussy) of the retaining wire now but I have to admit I havent read of any failures (other than mine - which i can only see was my own fault).
I now have the knowledge to easily swap between the two types if I wish.
My other (bigger) concern is the friction material that got stripped off one side of the bottom friction plate ended up plastered all over the top oil filter.
I can only guess the dislocated wire did it.
I am now shitting myself that I still had an oil supply to the motor. The bit I dont understand is the bottom filter had hardly any of the shredded friction material stuck to it - so how did the top filter end up with so much as its next in the path after the bottom filter. The bottom filter has no tearing/hole at all.
Thanks you guys for your help and advice.
Ray.
The only logical explanation for that I would say, the sump strainer has a coarser mesh than the side strainer. So, debris that can pass through the sump strainer can be trapped by the side strainer or filter.
 
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