Clutch hub(cushion spring) rebuild w/pics

The electric impact tool I used struggled with loosene the nut on the drive pinion, and the bolt for the rotor loosened instead. No basket spin test for now. I did realize there is a lot of flex between the basket and the gear plate. Video attached.
 
I'll bet someone replaced the springs on the back of the hub with softer ones. That's why they spin in the hub and why you can flex it so easily by hand. Time to go eBay shopping, lol. Since you're in the market for a new clutch, I'd recommend trying to get an '80 or newer unit with the dampened bottom plate. They engage smoother and I think they're easier on the cush springs because of that.
 
Thanks 2M and 5Twins. Will start looking into that. Have to do something soon as my insurance expires today on my DR650 :-(
The beauty of the collector plate on the TX is that here in BC, it is only $216.00/year to insure the old bike! Year round riding is finally possible without crazy insurance cost. It rains so much in the winter here that you might just get out 2 or 3 times a month if you're lucky.
 
Good afternoon Gents. I replaced my cush springs but now I have failed the basket spin test. :-(
I used the cush spring kit from xs650direct.com, but the nuts are impacting the engine case in the same spot where the gouging was previously caused when the basket was loose. Good thing I followed 2M's advice before I put it all back together! Basket spin test is imperative!
At their highest point, the nuts are 0.190" proud of the steel plate. Seems a lot compared to the rivets which were there. Attached are a few photo I took as I put together the basket assembly this am. All of the washers are in the correct place, and are verified as the correct thickness.
Where do you think I went wrong on this? Thanks.
 

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Are the button heads lower? Maybe the nuts go on the inside?
 
The button heads are lower, and when I invert the bolt/nut, it clears the cases and passes the basket spin test, however I was just trying to do it per the earlier posted photos which started this thread. Also, the nut on the inside causes the inner "basket" to fail the spin test. I could just file down the nut and bolt more, like about 0.030" should do it, but concerned about losing the integrity of the nut if its too thin. Perhaps just chamfer the outside of the nut and put the nut inside?
 
I just looked on the Australian web site at a clutch mod article and it shows the bolts as you have them, nuts on the back .....

https://old.xs650.org.au/Technical Info/clutch.htm

Maybe you'll just have to grind the bolt heads down some. You're sure you have the two correct spacer washers behind the hub (one thick, one thin, 3mm total spacing), and in the right order? ......

pMGakFT.jpg


wfEBron.jpg
 
Further to your point 5twins, I would have to take less off of the nuts if they were on the inside. I can't see what difference it would make to have nuts inside or outside, from strength perspective.
 
Yes, I definitely have the two washers for 3 mm total behind the basket. Thanks for that link to the Australian site. Great idea there re welding the nut to the bolt to ensure no movement, plus the red thread locker. I will do that tomorrow at work. That way, I won't be as concerned about having filed the nut down too much
 
Here is an update. I had to file down the nuts and bolts, prior to installing with red locktight, and then because the nuts were relatively thin, I TIG welded the nuts to the bolts, as was recommended on the Australian site - thanks 5twins! The maximum height of the nuts off of the steel plate was 0.152", and I passed the basket spin test, all good and the clutch works so well, but then I realized that my timing was too advanced after I readjusted the timing chain (was too tight) and valves, which were too loose. This led to my recent post about the ATU weights...
20200930_171650.jpg
 

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Hi all I take it when you say the basket spin test you were able to spin the basket by hand after you had torqued up the hub nut. I have just set mine at 40lbs /ft and it is almost solid. The only thing different is the size of the spacer under the nut, mine is 2.8mm not 2.6mm. What am I doing wrong please. Ta Pete
 
Are you certain you have all of the washers in the correct sequence and the trans is in neutral? My clutch basket was physically impacting the engine case, preventing smooth rotation, which was solved as noted above.
 
Yup, that's bad. Shouldn't be able to flex it with human power...
Yes a basket moving like that would need those Cush springs behind the basket changed. I just replaced my cush springs and they are solid. Before I changed them I could move the basket like that too but after changing, no damn way on this planet could I get that basket to move. However, that concerns me a bit As I think about what force then would those springs need to receive to budge them. I measured 1 mm between each ring of the new springs (installed) with a total of 5 mm of movement to absorb some of that initial torque. Is that enough you think? It does not seem so to me. The original Cush springs I pulled out had more space between each ring of the springs and they were already compressed beyond their usefullness. The Cush spring set I used was the XS performance set. Total length of the new XS performance springs was 26mm. These were 1mm diameter larger also . The fit with the retainer plate on was tight. I do have a set of Heidens Cush springs. They are the same length, 26mm, but the same diameter as the originals I removed.
Anybody have any experience with installing the XS performance springs and putting them in use. That would be helpful info, or installed and used another spring set you felt worked best. There are enough guys in here who have done this change over and ridden, so you would be what id call the clutch basket Cush spring whisperers. You have snatched the grasshopper from the masters hands.
 
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