Clutch not engaging?

Considering my bike was built in 1980 and I was born in 1993? There’s a lot of that.

Let’s keep it real: Buying used sucks. I had a customer with a Van Diemen RF99 Formula Ford, and I had to tap just about every hole on the car because they had metric going into SAE, SAE going into metric... It was a nightmare!

...But I always wanted an XS...
 
I meant the clutch springs, but thanks. I guess I’ll have to invest in a set of JIS screwdrivers eventually, but I use socket-head cap screws wherever I can. I’m of the Carroll Smith Philosophy where you go over your machine and improve it wherever you get the chance.

I’m wondering if I could maybe just get some longer bolts? Does anyone else have the Mike’s clutch bolts?

Also: For anyone who has them, you know how they’re a bolt and a piece of aluminum? I have a lathe, maybe I can make a new set where they’re a bit shorter on the shoulder?
 
upload_2021-8-6_10-20-4.png
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https://yamahaxs650.com/product/clutch-spring-screw-set/
upload_2021-8-6_10-24-13.png

Also Dime City, MikesXS, and others.
 
Since you have a lathe, you can easily modify your old screws. Cut the threaded portion off, drill a 1/4" (or 6mm) hole through the leftover "collar", and grind the dome flat on top .....

2atECtq.jpg


doz86XB.jpg
 
Those look like the bolts/spacers/springs I got from Mike’s. Unfortunately I think most of my tooling is better suited to materials like aluminum or Delrin rather than steel, that’s why I suggested making my own spacers out of aluminum. Anyway, I’ve decided to take my stripped-out OEM bolts and slot them with a Dremel. I want to see if my clutch will work with the OEM bolts/springs. Also, I sent Mike’s an email about the clutch not working with the aftermarket parts.

I really appreciate how helpful everyone on this site has been with my questions! :cheers::heart:
 
Also 5twins it’s funny you should mention the bolts being “too long”, because the OEM bolts AND the aftermarket bolts both seem to be a little too short for the spring? The bolt doesn’t start threading on either until AFTER you compress the spring a bit.
 
Looks like I did it right, probably just out of habit, putting things back on the way they came off... For what it’s worth, I removed my kicker. Had to, the tang snapped on the block. The inner and outer basket can rotate independently. Rear wheel still won’t rotate if it’s in gear.
 
Check to make sure your pinion gear key isn't sheared off, if your trans were locked up the engine would die as soon as you put it in gear. When you put it 5th and rotated the rear wheel did the engine turn over? If it didn't then your clutch is not engaged, you have a snapped trans shaft, or your pinion gear is sheared off/crank is snapped.
 
A certain amount of drag is normal in a wet clutch, especially with cold motor oil sticking the plates together. Pull the clutch lever in while you crank on the kick starter a few times, if things are working normally the clutch plates will let go and the engine will stop turning with the kicker.
 
RadMax said:
Looks like I did it right, probably just out of habit, putting things back on the way they came off... For what it’s worth, I removed my kicker. Had to, the tang snapped on the block. The inner and outer basket can rotate independently. Rear wheel still won’t rotate if it’s in gear.
Click to expand...
There's a fairly simple fix for that.
https://www.xs650.com/threads/kickstart.772/#post-18629
read the whole thread lots of good kick a$$ info there ;^)
I did the stud fix on one of my motors, never thought about it again.
 
For the time being, I won’t have a kickstarter. I slotted the OEM bolts. I can’t fix the kicker until I can get it to my shop unfortunately. There’s no oil in the engine at the moment since I keep having to take the cover off... Maybe a couple taps with a rubber mallet and/or a little oil on the clutch plates would give my clutch a little “coercion”?
 
RadMax said:
For the time being, I won’t have a kickstarter. I slotted the OEM bolts. I can’t fix the kicker until I can get it to my shop unfortunately. There’s no oil in the engine at the moment since I keep having to take the cover off... Maybe a couple taps with a rubber mallet and/or a little oil on the clutch plates would give my clutch a little “coercion”?
Click to expand...
So what is your actual issue right now? Clutch not disengaging fully? Have you adjusted the clutch actuator and cable?
 
Even with the clutch working properly, it's very difficult to spin the rear wheel by hand with the clutch pulled in and the bike in gear.
 

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