CLUTCH PUSH ROD

[Adamc]

Following the Shake Down Ride:
I' trying to cure the heavy / slipping clutch issue.
I have found enough info on here regarding clutch adjustment; so all good there.
I have new one piece actuation rod to replace whatever is in there. My question is I know there are a couple of ball bearings along the length of the rod.
Whats the best technique to remove the rod; and do the ball bearings just come out with it if I pull it from the worm side?
Ads.

 

[5twins]

Some have been able to pull the ball bearing and inner rod out through the pushrod seal with a magnet but I've never been so lucky, lol. I've always needed to remove the right side cover and clutch pressure plate, and then push the ball and rod out with another long rod of some sort.

 

[Mailman]

I’ve got an extendable pen sized magnet, that I picked up at Walmart, but Amazon also sells them.
It is just small enough to fit through the case opening and retrieve, both, the ball bearing that sits between the two piece push rod and the second half of the push rod.

 

[Jim]

and do the ball bearings just come out with it if I pull it from the worm side?

May sound obvious but I'll point it out anyway... the innermost ball, the one that rests against the clutch stays. You still need that inner ball in place.

 

[Adamc]

Some have been able to pull the ball bearing and inner rod out through the pushrod seal with a magnet but I've never been so lucky, lol. I've always needed to remove the right side cover and clutch pressure plate, and then push the ball and rod out with another long rod of some sort.

Thanks 5T

 

[Adamc]

I’ve got an extendable pen sized magnet, that I picked up at Walmart, but Amazon also sells them.
It is just small enough to fit through the case opening and retrieve, both, the ball bearing that sits between the two piece push rod and the second half of the push rod.
View attachment 243505

Cheers Bob, I will get me one of them!

 

[Adamc]

May sound obvious but I'll point it out anyway... the innermost ball, the one that rests against the clutch stays. You still need that inner ball in place.

So if I pull the rest out that one will stay put?
And nowt will fall down into the case and cause havoc!

 

[Jim]

So if I pull the rest out that one will stay put?
And nowt will fall down into the case and cause havoc!

Might stay put, might come out with the rod. Just push it back in if it does. Give it a good once over first of course.
If it stays in place, just let it be.
That's the way I'd play it anyway...

 

[Adamc]

Might stay put, might come out with the rod. Just push it back in if it does. Give it a good once over first of course.
If it stays in place, just let it be.
That's the way I'd play it anyway...

God on ya @Jim.

 

[Mailman]

So if I pull the rest out that one will stay put?
And nowt will fall down into the case and cause havoc!

It can’t fall into the case. You could put that ball bearing in from the left side of the motor and push it straight through to the clutch basket.

 

[Jim]

Adam, did you get one of the all aluminum pushrods from @GLJ ?

 

[Adamc]

It can’t fall into the case. You could put that ball bearing in from the left side of the motor and push it straight through to the clutch basket.

Thanks for the clarity Bob.

 

[Adamc]

Adam, did you get one of the all aluminum pushrods from @GLJ ?

No Jim; I got mine from Yambits.co.uk here in Blighty.
Im going to try proper adjustment of the worm screw actuator and cable first.

 

[gggGary]

Is the cable new and or recent and it's been drip lubed end to end?
Slip AND stiff says cable to me.
In the you never know department; cable bends are the sworn enemy of good clutch action, one tight bend will fuggle pull effort.
It's one of my mantra's; the best route for handlebar, cable length is a bike by bike chinese puzzle. Time spent getting it right will be richly rewarded.

 

[Adamc]

Is the cable new and or recent and it's been drip lubed end to end?
Slip AND stiff says cable to me.
In the you never know department; cable bends are the sworn enemy of good clutch action, one tight bend will fuggle pull effort.
It's one of my mantra's; the best route for handlebar, cable length is a bike by bike chinese puzzle. Time spent getting it right will be richly rewarded.

Hi @gggGary; all just stripped off the bike for full servicing of the various components. Lubbing up the wires will be part of the process. Also being an older cyclist still using cable shifters I appreciate the importance of smooth bends; and what that does for shifting action. Ta for the pointer tho'

 

[gggGary]

I've tried many times, and there's just no saving an internally rusted cable.
Cough; Motion pro
Don't ignore the perch pivot. Hardly ever find one where the bolt isn't badly worn inside, cuz they don't get removed and lubed..

 

[Adamc]

I've tried many times, and there's just no saving an internally rusted cable.
Cough; Motion pro
Don't ignore the perch pivot. Hardly ever find one where the bolt isn't badly worn inside, cuz they don't get removed and lubed..

Fair point Gary.
I make my own cables using high quality VENHILL products.
My perch pivot is a modern Nissin set up with as new lubed components, so all should be good there.

 

[DogBunny]

Using a "new one piece actuation rod to replace whatever is in there" will have exactly zero effect on your heavy / slipping issue. The only advantage of a one-piece over a two-piece rod is slower wearing-out of the pushrod seal bushing. But at the cost of losing your ability to get into neutral when the engine is hot. That's because the two-piece rods are made out of one aluminum rod and one steel rod, which match the expansion of the hot engine. The one piece rod is all steel and your clutch adjustment goes out as the engine gets hot. I prefer two-piece rods. They are harder on the pushrod seal, but they stay in adjustment when the engine gets hot. The alternative is to buy a one-piece aluminum rod from GLJ -- it matches engine expansion better than a one piece steel rod.

Regarding slippage, first, as has been said, lubricate and adjust everything correctly and route the cable with the fewest and least sharp bends possible. Use a brand new Motion Pro cable. If you still have slippage, the solution is to buy Alto clutch plates from Gary.

 

[gggGary]

You made me look. XS650 clutch perch 28mm center to center both early and late (70-79)

 

[Adamc]

You made me look. XS650 clutch perch 28mm center to center both early and late (70-79)

Gary, Dogbunny says you supply Alto clutch plates; If so how much and do you ship to UK?