Converted portable generator to dual fuel gasoline/natural gas

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I have had this in the back of my mind for years and this summer we had an extended power outage and all the local gas stations had no power so no convenient gas. I saw a YT video about a month ago and did some research and decided to take the plunge. I can still run gasoline so not much other than a little time and money to lose. The basic parts of the system are the gas piping from the house to the garage, the hose from the gas pipe to the demand regulator (acts like a float bowl), adding a means of adjusting the mixture to the regulator and making or buying an adapter/venturi/mixer to the carburetor. You can buy kits for most generators but I wanted to see if I could do it myself.

I installed a gas line in the garage for an IR heater so just needed to tap into that, add a drip leg, shutoff valve and (later) a quick connect for the gas hose. The gas hose came from Amazon and had a quick connect on one end and a flare connection on the other.

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The next big piece was the demand regulator with a means to adjust the mixture going to the carb. The demand regulator is closed until it sees a small (0.3 inches of water vacuum, if the engine stops or the hose becomes disconnected, the regulator shuts off the flow. Basically, it acts like a float bowl. The regulator is a Garretson as that seems to be what everyone is using and the specs. looked good to me, with all my extensive experience...:rolleyes: The mixture adjustment was provided by adding a tapered 3/8" bolt to a standard 1/4" pipe tee. These are available commercially for around $25 but the ones I have seen just had a plain bolt, maybe it works fine but I wanted more of a needle valve, so I tapered the end of the bolt.

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The next big "chunk" was the carb adapter/venturi (to provide the vacuum to the regulator)/gas mixer. These are also available commercially for about $50 but, I have a lathe so I made my own out of a piece of aluminum plate.

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I got it all hooked up temporarily using a piece of air hose, eventually I will replace it with a piece of gas rated hose but this is good enough for a test.

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I pulled the starter cord about a zillion times (felt that way anyway) while adjusting the gas mixture from all the way closed to full open but all it would do was give the occasional "cough", usually after giving it a shot of gas by hitting the "prime" button on the regulator. It was getting late, and dinner was calling so I figured I'd leave it for the next morning.

In the morning, it dawned on me that I had put pipe plugs in the regulator vents (doh!! :doh:) and never removed them for the test. I removed the plugs, and it seemed like it wanted to start more than before but still no joy. I pulled the hose off the adapter and gave a shot of starting fluid into the hose barb and BINGO!!, it started on the first pull. It was running pretty rough so I adjusted the mixture until it smoothed out. I adjusted the "mixture screw" in until it sputtered, then out until it sputtered again and set it midway. I then plugged in two space heaters totaling 3000 watts and it took the load smoothly and continued running well.

I tried to attach a movie, when I figure it out, I'll add it...says it's too big.

The final test will be shutting off the power and simulating an outage and seeing how it compares to its normal-gasoline operation. I figure worst case, if the power loss is noticeable, I will have to be more careful about how many things can be connected at a time. I think it helps that the motor is a 9 hp when 8 hp seems more typical for this size generator. (3500W/4000W surge)

Now we will see if all the horror stories of NG conversions burning exhaust valves are true, I have my doubts but we shall see...
 
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I checked the spark plug and it looked good but it was a Champion resistor plug. The plug cap is an NGK resistor cap so I ordered an NGK equivalent non-resistor plug, for one just on general principal so as not to have double resistance and two to see if it would help starting. Sadly, it didn't help, I still need to give it a shot of starting fluid to get the ball rolling. Oh well, I can live with that.

I also did a simulated power outage test today. I flipped the main breaker off and hooked everything up the way I would during a power outage. The generator powered everything just like always. If anything, it recovered when starting the big loads a little better than on gasoline. If there's any power loss from using natural gas (the interweb states consistently that you lose 10% on propane and 20% on NG), I can't tell the difference.

I'm calling this one a success and it will be soooo nice not having to deal with the hassle of gasoline anymore.
 
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I did some reading on starting a generator converted to natural gas and found some things to try, all of which did absolutely nothing. The most common suggestion was to close down the spark plug gap to 0.020", this from a tech rep from one of the conversion kit suppliers, which is now all over the interweb as a mandatory change for a conversion. (PS, I tried the standard 0.028" gap and the reduced gap, and it made no difference whatsoever.)

I was strongly suspecting the root of the problem was that the demand regulator wasn't opening at the very low vacuum level generated in the adapter while pull starting. One time (and only one time of dozens) I was able to start the generator without starting fluid by pushing the "prime" button on the back of the regulator which just manually opens the valve, just like a "tickler" on an old Amal carb. This pretty much confirmed my suspicion that the valve wasn't opening while pull starting. I did a bunch of internet research and 99% of what I found was "don't touch the regulator adjustment, it's factory set and should never be adjusted by you dimwitted mouth breathers", which didn't sit well with me. Now that I know how the regulator works, AND I found the adjustment procedure in and OLD Onan manual, I decided to try adjusting the regulator.

Basically, there is a flapper valve over the regulator inlet which is held closed by a spring when the engine isn't running. When the engine starts, the vacuum is applied to the inlet side of the diaphragm, overcoming the spring pressure, opening the valve and allowing gas to flow to the regulator outlet. I actually ordered what should have been an adjustable regulator, like this one.

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The spring adjustment screw is under the slotted brass cover/adjustment lock above the 3/4 NPT inlet port. What I received was a "tamper resistant" version of the regulator which has the same specs. as the above with the exception of a welch plug over the adjusting screw. Like this one...

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I didn't understand or catch the difference when the regulator arrived and rather than go through all the hassle of disassembling all my work and returning the regulator for the correct one, I just converted this one by drilling a small hole in the welch plug and using a sheet metal screw and slide hammer to remove the plug. I then tried moving the adjustment screw which turned easily after breaking the weak glue on the plug meant to hold the factory adjustment. I adjusted the spring pressure per the Onan manual with the exception of using soapy water and increasing spring pressure until the regulator quit making bubbles at the outlet and then going in another 1/2 turn for a little safety margin in the event that my gas pressure increases for who knows what reason. All I needed now was a plug to cover the adjusting screw and lock in the spring setting like a jam nut. My favorite hardware store (McMaster) had a 1/2" long stainless steel 5/8-18 NF socket point set screw (say that 10 times fast...) in stock, so I went over and grabbed one, along with a few other handy things, chucked it up in the lathe and removed the cup point to provide a flat surface to bear against the adjusting screw. It's the socket head plug above the supply hose. The welch plug is in the foreground to the right of the hose, sitting on top of the regulator base. I made the base out of some steel scraps I had laying around.

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After a little fine tuning of the load block, it now starts first or second pull hot or cold and goes from zero to 85% load (two 1500W space heaters) very smoothly and quickly, even better than it did on gasoline. (nice plus)

Finally, I had been using brass pipe plugs to plug the diaphragm breather ports when the regulator wasn't being used and had already forgotten to remove them twice, which causes the generator to respond to large load changes slowly. To eliminate this possibility in the future, I also picked up some filtered breather plugs along with the other goodies at McMaster. They were a little more restrictive than I liked, so I poked some holes in them with an appropriately sized sewing needle until they flowed the way I wanted. Now spiders and other creepy crawlies can't build a nest in there and block the vents.

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I am now thoroughly pleased with this conversion and wish I did it a loooong time ago. I'm almost looking forward to the next power outage! (...almost...)
 
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Nice!

It's probably a Good Thing I don't live near a McMaster-Carr pick-up location. I spend enough with those fine folks as it is! For those of us that live out here on the tundra, their shipping time is nothing short of amazing.

If you’re ever near one stop by! It’s an impressive operation!

I used to go to will call about once a week. There same day delivery was often just too long to wait haha.

Automated, with rails and tracks floor to ceiling. Like a huge rollercoaster/train track. Little plastic totes going all around it.
 
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