Copper Gaskets for Banjo Fittings on Brake Lines

I’m a firm believer in annealing copper washers before use, even new ones. If you need to be convinced, get two new washers from the same source. Anneal one and then try to bend each one using your fingers only. It’s surprising how soft the copper becomes after putting heat to them.

This winter I rebuilt the front brakes, replaced lines and had several leaks I had trouble stopping using copper washers. I ended up using Dowty washers (steel with a rubber seal) and that did the trick.
 
I have been using aluminum washers
My new Russell fittings came with aluminum washers and I bought a spare pack from them that were aluminum as well. I wondered if they sealed better or it was a cost saving measure? Aluminum work ok but are more difficult to anneal. @Jim explained the process in another thread. If I find it I’ll post it.
 
My new Russell fittings came with aluminum washers and I bought a spare pack from them that were aluminum as well. I wondered if they sealed better or it was a cost saving measure? Aluminum work ok but are more difficult to anneal. @Jim explained the process in another thread. If I find it I’ll post it.
I only use the aluminum washers one time. Never tried to anneal an aluminum washer. My BMWs used aluminum washers for all the plugs on bike. Spiegler lines use aluminum washers.
 
I only use the aluminum washers one time. Never tried to anneal an aluminum washer. My BMWs used aluminum washers for all the plugs on bike. Spiegler lines use aluminum washers.
I saw a short video on annealing aluminum that I think fit this purpose. The aluminum was marked with a Sharpie. It was then heated with a torch to the point that the ink disappeared. The demonstrator cooled it slowly, then demonstrated how soft it was.
 
I saw a short video on annealing aluminum that I think fit this purpose. The aluminum was marked with a Sharpie. It was then heated with a torch to the point that the ink disappeared. The demonstrator cooled it slowly, then demonstrated how soft it was.
A candle will do the same. Run it under the aluminum and let the soot coat it, then the torch to burn it off/anneal the part.
Never thought of using a Sharpie. Pretty slick.
 
A candle will do the same. Run it under the aluminum and let the soot coat it, then the torch to burn it off/anneal the part.
Never thought of using a Sharpie. Pretty slick.
Used that method when I worked at the Freightliner dealership in the late 70's in order to straighten/shrink floors that got wrinkled in jackknifes. But we used a rosebud torch. Works great.
 
Used that method when I worked at the Freightliner dealership in the late 70's in order to straighten/shrink floors that got wrinkled in jackknifes. But we used a rosebud torch. Works great.
Yes, an oxy/acetylene torch set very rich will soot like crazy... perfect for this application. Used that quiet a bit myself.
The nice thing about using the torch is it's quick and easy. Use the torch to "soot" the part, add a little oxygen to clean up the flame and then use it to heat the part. Quick and easy.
 
The nice thing about using the torch is it's quick and easy. Use the torch to "soot" the part, add a little oxygen to clean up the flame and then use it to heat the part. Quick and easy.
The trick is removing the heat before the panel/part becomes a silver blob on the floor.
 
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