Crabby's Build

[5twins]

Yes, you'll always get a little "jump" on the dial gauge at the rim weld. Even though you can't see it on the outside, the gauge will detect a little bump there. Just ignore it .....

Yes, I also had issues with MikesXS outer 650 spokes breaking on a TX750 hub. I finally "fixed" it by replacing all the outers with actual 750 spokes I found on eBay. If I ever do switch to stainless spokes on that wheel, I'll need to bend all the outers like Gary did.

 

[CrabbyCustoms]

Quick question. I just started painting my frame today (pictures to follow) and I noticed that after only 2 coats of epoxy primer my vin/serial # on the head stock is pretty much filled in. I still have high build primer and color to go.

Just curious how people deal with this? I'm guessing that I won't be able to certify the bike without a vin #?.

Thanks!

 

[gggGary]

Get rid of the paint now on the number area, a quick shot of black laquer so the number can be seen and cover with a rectangle of masking tape while the rest of the frame gets the full Monte?
Not only legal but provenance matters

 

[46th Georgia]

Quick question. I just started painting my frame today (pictures to follow) and I noticed that after only 2 coats of epoxy primer my vin/serial # on the head stock is pretty much filled in. I still have high build primer and color to go.

Just curious how people deal with this? I'm guessing that I won't be able to certify the bike without a vin #?.

Thanks!

I would remove the paint around the VIN, use an awl to dig the paint out of the #'s, and feather sand the epoxy back. Put a light coat of epoxy that has been thinned over the area. Are you building a custom or is it a restoration?

 

[CrabbyCustoms]

Are you building a custom or is it a restoration?

It's a custom.

 

[46th Georgia]

It's a custom.

Then I'd remove the paint in that area like I was saying, cut some tape like Gary said and proceed with the priming. However, I would remove the tape at the end of each day and re-tape it the next day. If you get too much hard primer on the tape, it's a bitch to remove. When you are ready for paint. leave it taped until the last coat then untape and put 1 coat over the #'s. That's how I would do it. Opinions may vary.

 

[Jim]

Then I'd remove the paint in that area like I was saying, cut some tape like Gary said and proceed with the priming. However, I would remove the tape at the end of each day and re-tape it the next day. If you get too much hard primer on the tape, it's a bitch to remove. When you are ready for paint. leave it taped until the last coat then untape and put 1 coat over the #'s. That's how I would do it. Opinions may vary.

The only thing I'd add to that is clean the #'s and letters out with the awl "again" just before you top coat it. Going down to bare metal in that small an area won't hurt anything, don't sweat it.

 

[Mailman]

For what it’s worth, I’ll show you what the powder coater did with my frame, after sand blasting, they covered the VIN with a piece of metal tape and then powder coated the frame. When it came out of the oven they peeled the tape off and hand brushed some clear over the VIN.

 

[CrabbyCustoms]

This is all so helpful and I know exactly what I’m going to do tomorrow. Thanks so much!

 

[CrabbyCustoms]

The frame is pretty much complete and ready for final paint. Although I've said that many times already and I always seem to find something that I don't like that somehow i'd never noticed until now!

This is the first time I've ever moulded a frame before and i feel like I have an extreme amount of Bondo on it, possibly the first big bump I hit will shatter it to pieces.

The process was as follows:

Using a grinder I cut lots of metal bits from the frame.

I then stripped it using abraisive glass.

Then primed it with Epoxy and high build primers.

Then started lathering on the body filler. I would apply so much and then sand off 90% of it! Certain areas had so many layers that they looked like tree rings!

Primed it again, epoxy and high build.

What I thought was going to be final sand then paint color, turned into more metal work and then more bondo.

Finally I spot primed the new areas and I'm ready for final final sand.

It went from this to this.

Next up the front suspension.

 

[Jim]

This is the first time I've ever moulded a frame before and i feel like I have an extreme amount of Bondo on it, possibly the first big bump I hit will shatter it to pieces.

Did that with my SG. I can honestly say I did it "once." Never again...
Although I did cover some welds that are hidden, it's mostly just the ones that show.

 

[CrabbyCustoms]

Nice. They look good. I have to do my swingarm next, not looking forward to it!

 

[Jim]

If you weld up the open seams, be sure and measure across the axle saddles first. Welding will distort the tubes inward slightly. As long as you know the proper dimension, a bottle jack will set it right in short order.

 

[TX650A Van Islander]

If you weld up the open seams, be sure and measure across the axle saddles first. Welding will distort the tubes inward slightly. As long as you know the proper dimension, a bottle jack will set it right in short order.

View attachment 338191

That's really great advice!

 

[CrabbyCustoms]

Just finished disassembly of my front forks, it went smoothly thanks to the info regarding the special tool to get inside the 35mm stanchions. Easy to manufacture and it worked on the first attempt.

I do have a quick question though, I'm curious what you think about the need to use these Damper Valves?
I'm putting in new Performance Progressive springs, I only weigh 140pds. my bike has been stripped back weight wise. Do you think these damper valves will make a difference?

Thanks for any info!

 

[gggGary]

I used a set of the Mikes valve I weigh 175 and the bike is about stock weight.
I thought it was better than the minton mods I have a on another bike.
But adjusting the spring is a pita
Some day I'll get around to riding Ywain

and have something decent to compare to.
.

 

[jetmechmarty]

Just finished disassembly of my front forks, it went smoothly thanks to the info regarding the special tool to get inside the 35mm stanchions. Easy to manufacture and it worked on the first attempt.

View attachment 341248View attachment 341249

I do have a quick question though, I'm curious what you think about the need to use these Damper Valves?
I'm putting in new Performance Progressive springs, I only weigh 140pds. my bike has been stripped back weight wise. Do you think these damper valves will make a difference?

View attachment 341252

Thanks for any info!

Those valves work with straight rate springs. They won’t tune for dual rate (progressive) springs. My Eleven Special is fitted with the Race Tech valves. It wasn’t simple to figure out on my own, but now that I have it I’m happy with the results.
If you buy the MikesXS valves you’re going to be all on your own. YSS has them too and I know nothing of their support. Traxxion Dynamics has been my best experience. They sell the Race Tech product. Traxxion provided my custom wound straight rate springs.

The XS650 will probably require a fork brace if you’re making use of the emulator valves.

 

[CrabbyCustoms]

Those valves work with straight rate springs. They won’t tune for dual rate (progressive) springs. My Eleven Special is fitted with the Race Tech valves. It wasn’t simple to figure out on my own, but now that I have it I’m happy with the results.
If you buy the MikesXS valves you’re going to be all on your own. YSS has them too and I know nothing of their support. Traxxion Dynamics has been my best experience. They sell the Race Tech product. Traxxion provided my custom wound straight rate springs.

The XS650 will probably require a fork brace if you’re making use of the emulator valves.

Good to know! Thanks!

 

[CrabbyCustoms]

I've been working on drilling my front brake disc and reassembly of my front forks.

Thanks to several members for your amazing suggestions and content.

JIM for your Minton mods method.
MAXPETE for your post about the fork oil seal install method.
FREDINTOON for your suggestion regarding the importance of drilling the front brake disc.
WILLIS for posting your hole pattern template.

I was hesitating attempting to drill my brake disc as I thought I would probably screw it up (dogs breakfast!). Willis's template pattern was really simple and it turned out amazing.

Next I attempted the Minton Mods, I followed Jim's method so If I was unhappy with the results I could go back and seal up the 2 extra holes. Using a #19 drill bit I added 2 extra holes just above the existing ones.

Next I bead blasted the lower forks and cleared them with ShineSeal. Using Maxpetes threaded rod idea I installed the oil seals.

I'm about to put in the oil and close them up. I'm using progressive springs and low profile caps from XSDirect, my question is does this look correct? should the spring be sticking out so far from the tube end? Thanks!

 

[CrabbyCustoms]

I've been working hard on the bike over the last 4 months, making real progress.

But around 8 months ago I hit a wall, I couldn't figure out the problem I was having lacing my rear wheel and eventually found a wheel guy, Terry at Wolfe Wheels in Blenheim Ontario, he bent the spokes to make it all line up, money well spent. although I can't seem to get the whitewalls coating off? front tire stripe looks dull and dirty, it doesn't match the rear's stripe?

Next I had an issue with the fork tube cap. One of them wouldn't seat into the tube. I sent it back to XSDirect and they determined they were having tooling issues. I ended up bringing it to a machinist/bike builder, Brian Kates at Motobrix (instagram) he put the cap on the lathe and just removed a hairs worth and it dropped right in. Forks are now complete.

My frame was now ready for final color but other than the fake oil tank under the seat I didn't have a concrete plan for all of my electrics so I had Brian weld 4 bungs and 2 brackets for the coil and CDI and also a small battery box. This meant scraping off the bondo and going back to fabricating. He did an amazing job but now i had to go back to molding the frame over again.

This was for the CDI and battery box.

This is for the coil.

I then finished my electrics tube for under the seat.

Next I disassembled the shocks (using ratchet straps), then bead blasted and painted them but I still haven't figured out how to get them back together without destroying the paint.

By the middle of October everything was painted but the frame, I kept burning through to metal on certain edges and then reapplying more primer only to burn through again! I ended up masking around the burn thru, very tedious but after 4 years the frame is painted. It's not perfect but from 10 feet away it looks it.

Now I just have to assemble it (and wire it!).

Thanks for looking and Happy Holidays!