Crabby's Build

Loving that bronze metallic paint, great attention to detail!
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I got the engine in the frame today. I laid the engine on a blanket and placed the frame over it. Lined up perfectly. EasyPeasie. My protective wrap is a little OCD but I just didn't know what I would encounter? Very easy install.
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I tackled the steering bearings next. The forum was once again super helpful, particularly Mailman's post so thank you.

I reused the rubber seal and added the allballs lower seal. Froze the bearings over night and it slipped on easily with the help of a 1.25in. PVC pipe.
I had the most difficulty seating the lower race. I was trying to do it with threaded rod but the race never went in straight. I ended up tapping it in with a small drift but it took most of the day.
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The upper race went in easily by tapping it with a hammer and piece of wood.

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But this doesn't look right!? Any idea where I messed up? Any help will be appreciated!

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But this doesn't look right!? Any idea where I messed up? Any help will be appreciated!
Looks good to me. The All Balls kit does stand a little prouder than the stock balls. Doesn't hurt anything except the fork ears wind up a little loose. I suspect you're not gonna use the stock ones anyway, so no worries.

Far as the lower seal, I just use the stock one and toss the one from the kit.
Same with the upper seal if it's supplied. Stock has the dust cap on top. That's all you need. Toss the seal.
 

Far as the lower seal, I just use the stock one and toss the one from the kit.
Same with the upper seal if it's supplied. Stock has the dust cap on top. That's all you need. Toss the seal
Oh good to know. Thank you! Yes I might as well remove the upper seal. Tomorrow the swing arm bearings!
 
I got the engine in the frame today. I laid the engine on a blanket and placed the frame over it. Lined up perfectly. EasyPeasie. My protective wrap is a little OCD but I just didn't know what I would encounter? Very easy install.View attachment 363527

View attachment 363522

I tackled the steering bearings next. The forum was once again super helpful, particularly Mailman's post so thank you.

I reused the rubber seal and added the allballs lower seal. Froze the bearings over night and it slipped on easily with the help of a 1.25in. PVC pipe.
I had the most difficulty seating the lower race. I was trying to do it with threaded rod but the race never went in straight. I ended up tapping it in with a small drift but it took most of the day.
View attachment 363528

The upper race went in easily by tapping it with a hammer and piece of wood.

View attachment 363530View attachment 363531View attachment 363532
But this doesn't look right!? Any idea where I messed up? Any help will be appreciated!

View attachment 363534View attachment 363533
I’ve not used your small bubble wrap under tape OCD method before but I’m definitely using it when my 73 motor goes back in the frame.Love the idea.😁👍👍
 
Starting to take shape.
 

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Morning!

Looking for some advice. I'm assembling the rear wheel and i'm using a 520 chain and sprocket set up. Because it's been so long since I did my initial research I'm having trouble finding some of the posts that I originally relied on and my recent searches aren't finding the answers. I remember reading that I would have to use a shim/washer behind my front front sprocket in order to have it line up properly but I can't find the info on washer thickness needed?

Also when I attempted to put on the rear sprocket I noticed that the bolts are now to long. Am I supposed to shim the rear sprocket as well?

Appreciate any input!
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Are they really too long or are the threads in the hub just rusty dirty "way down in there"
Never hurts to chase dirty old threads with a tap. Plenty of light lube/rust buster during and after.

:twocents:
Run a nut on the threads before you head to the grinder with the bolts.
Good question. Assumed poster was wise enough to know this.
I have never seen those holes to be blind on any bike I've had.
 
If your rear sprocket is to be flush with the hub the front sprocket would need to be flush with the end stop on the splined shaft. I use a Sprocket Specialist front 520 sprocket and the spacer is made onto the sprocket. Spacer goes to the front. The spacer measures 3mm or about 3/32". I`ve never had the rear bolts bottom out on any of my rear hubs?
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Are they really too long or are the threads in the hub just rusty dirty "way down in there"
Never hurts to chase dirty old threads with a tap. Plenty of light lube/rust buster during and after.

:twocents:
Run a nut on the threads before you head to the grinder with the bolts.

I went and got myself a tap&die set. I'd always avoided getting one, thinking that i'd screw it up but it was easy and the results amazing.

I've done every bolt hole I could find, it's going to make reassembly much easier. So the sprocket is on.

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Assembled the swing arm then repainted the seat as I'm loving how all the base coat silver looks. I put on the shocks, the seat bracket, the coil, the battery box.

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Finally got the wheel on, foot controls, brake stay. Next, rear fender and sissy bar.
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Your bike is almost to pretty to ride...I see that you got the front white wall cleaned up.:thumbsup:
I've already started damaging the paint in spots, I can't worry about it, i hope to ride it often and far.

Yes I found this product and was able to get the front tire a better match to the back tire. It took a long time to do it, you had to work in small areas and really had to scrub. It warned against getting the product on any aluminum or painted surfaces.

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