Creating a new regulator rectifier from scratch (1980 and up)

Many people (that don't know any better) do pay that, lol. Here's an aftermarket reg/rec unit the vendor charges $145 for .....

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Does the regulator portion look familiar? It should .....

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That vendor is laughing all the way to the bank, lol.

5T speaks the truth. Even if you were to buy a bad "look alike" of that regulator, you could still replace it for less than $20.

Oregon has so much faith in that regulator and rectifier that he gives a lifetime guarantee. He could replace it 8 times before going into the red, that ain't gonna happen.

Scott
 
Hello, I would like to bump this post in order to pose a question. I have done the fiat regulator mod and it works well to recharge a battery. Too well in fact. When revved up it's putting out at about 15 volts. Which is a bit high. I'm using an antigravity battery and it says the highest voltage it can handle is 14.4 volts. Is mine not working correctly? Or is this normal. If so what can I do to get it down to 14.4 volts . My antigravity battery has started bulging out and before I replace it I want to get this problem resolved.
 
Could be your regulator is bad. Could also be that you have a fairly big voltage drop at the brown wire going into the regulator. The reg. uses the brown wire to sense (measure) battery voltage. If you were getting a half a volt or better drop there, the reg. would be overcharging by that amount... Put it this way... reg. wants to see 14 - 14.5 at the battery (brown wire). If voltage drop at the brown was a half a volt, the regulator would charge to 15 volts..... and think it was at 14.5.
 
Could be your regulator is bad. Could also be that you have a fairly big voltage drop at the brown wire going into the regulator. The reg. uses the brown wire to sense (measure) battery voltage. If you were getting a half a volt or better drop there, the reg. would be overcharging by that amount... Put it this way... reg. wants to see 14 - 14.5 at the battery (brown wire). If voltage drop at the brown was a half a volt, the regulator would charge to 15 volts..... and think it was at 14.5.

Hello, Jim. Thank you for your reply.
Interesting points. I would hope the regulator isn't bad it isn't exactly old. How do I measure the brown wire voltage drop and if I detect it how do I correct it?
 
How do I measure the brown wire voltage drop and if I detect it how do I correct it?
Ok.... here's a video showing how to measure the drop. As far as how to fix it, you'll just have to go through the wiring 'tll you find the problem. More often than not, it's the ignition switch causing the drop.

 
Yes, that rectifier will be fine. It looks very similar to the Windy Nation unit many of us use. The mention of Fiat in that post isn't about the rectifier, it's about the regulator. The regulator many of us use with the later style alternator is a Fiat regulator.

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But I thought we established in that other thread that you have an early style alternator. You don't want or need this 'A' type (ground switching) regulator. You want a 'B' type (power switching) regulator.
 
Well, in the States here, most of us use a VR115 or one of it's equivalents, but I don't think they are readily available in the U.K. I'm not sure what you could use that is easy to get there. Maybe some other U.K. members will chime in with an answer for you.
 
I was wondering if there is a specific name for a power swtching regulator B type as 5Twins mentioned
I have read up on the types there are and are even more confused
TYPES ARE
Regulator stabalized power supply
Swithiching regulator DC to DC converter ( some switch power some switch ground) i Think
Linear regulator
isolated switching regulator
Non switching isolated switching regulator
Shunt regulator
LDO regulator
I am truley BAMBOOZALED
It would be easier for me to perform brain surgery or if some one had a 1981 special II with pamco EI and advance who has built a Reg/Rect
 
The specific name is a 'B' type automotive regulator. Google 'A' and 'B' type automotive regulators and you'll find an explanation of both and their differences. In a nut shell, the 'A' type sends a regulated ground signal to the alternator, the 'B' type a regulated power signal.

This has all been explained here many times. You've been directed to many of those threads but still don't seem to understand it. For people like you, there are places called bike shops. You take your bike in, pay your money, and they fix it for you. Unfortunately, when it comes to old bikes like these, many shops don't know much more about them than you do, lol.
 
I know Skull and yourself are right and I did say I do not get electrics. As frustrating as you find it, just imagine how i feel.
But i will continue to try and understand the concept. beleive it or not I get a little bit more than when I started.
Diodes allow current to flow one way. Capacitors store energy. Transistors swtich flow. Resisters reduce flow. All I need to get now is what component will give me the required result. I will continue to search for an automotive regulator in the UK that will have the same rating as the Fiat one mentioned building the thing i can do with my eyes closed.
Going to check the ignition switch today also. Thanks to all
 
Thanks for the link Skull
Im getting to understand more. Thanks to you and the others. Trouble with me is I ask questions that may seem obvious but each question answered is knowledge i gain.
My stator is a 3 phase stator each winding represents a coiled circuit this is represented as the 3 white wires comming from the stator each white wire is a Phase or a current producing circuit each circuit produces AC current which fluctuates due to the negative and positive poles of the magnets within the Stator.
The fluctuation causes the Alternating Current. the rectifire has a series of 3 Diodes which only allow current to flow one way thus producing DC current which the battery needs to charge its self .
the regulator regulates the voltage to the battery by monitering the DC voltage from the rectifier and throwing electrical switches to feed and surplus DC current to ground to maintain 14.5 DC volts charging capapcity.
The cooling fins on the Reg Rec are to dissipate heat from the voltage going to ground Wasted energy
I tested all the circuits stator winding are all withing tolerance AC voltage is 18 to 20 AC volts . Diodes are all withing 0.5 Ohms one way and can say in good faith that the regulator within the REG/REC is faulty.
I have ordered a relacment Reg Rec but will make my own one once i can source the correct regulator the Lucas one I found my be a candidate just need to find the wiring diagram and info on it to see if it swites power rather than ground.
I have probably got some of this wrong but i feel I know more now and it made checking the Circuits easier as i had a picture in my mind how it all works.
 
the regulator regulates the voltage to the battery by monitering the DC voltage from the rectifier and throwing electrical switches to feed and surplus DC current to ground to maintain 14.5 DC volts charging capapcity.
That describes a PMA alternator.

"the regulator regulates the voltage to the battery by monitering the DC voltage from the rectifier and throwing electrical switches to feed and surplus DC current to ground energize the rotor to maintain 14.5 DC volts charging capapcity."
 
I knew i got somthing wrong as stated in my post. so isit that i was stating the obvious or i was wrong GGG and Jim energise the rotor do you mean the stator Jim
 
The brushes energize the rotor, it's magnetic field then creates (alternating) current in the stator coils.
 
That diagram I posted should make how an early alternator works easy to decipher.
 
.....energise the rotor do you mean the stator Jim
Remember this jingle....

Stator's are stationary... rotor's rotate.

The rotor uses dc (battery) voltage to create an alternating magnetic field.
The stator uses that (alternating North/South) magnetic field to create and alternating (A/C) current.
That's fed to the rectifier where it's converted to DC (Direct Current) and fed back to the battery and whatever ancillary system needs it.

Here. From my rotor thread: https://www.xs650.com/threads/rewound-alternator-rotor.54276/


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