Different year intake boots

[gusto]

What's the difference in the 74 to 77 boot verse the 78 to 84 boot? I got a 77 but looks like the later boot has vacuum and other one no vacuum nipples. Do they screw up different or the same. Should I be just buying the later boot so I can synchronize? Thanks

 

[Its been a long time]

I think the vendor listing for these is often incorrect. All years up to and including 1979 used BS38 carbs. 1980 onwards use BS34 carbs. The two are different sizes.

 

[gusto]

Got some cheap eBay vm 34 carbs coming with 77 boots off Amazon. Hopefully it works out.

 

[Its been a long time]

Got some cheap eBay vm 34 carbs coming with 77 boots off Amazon. Hopefully it works out.

You need 1980 onwards boots for VM34 carbs.

Cheap Amazon carbs are going to be clones, not the real deal?

 

[gusto]

Feel like I might should be ordering the later year boots based on what you said if trying vm34. The 77 is 38mm while the 80 is 34mm?? It's Amazon so I can return easy.

 

[gusto]

See you replyed while I was typing. Thanks

 

[Its been a long time]

See you replyed while I was typing. Thanks

That's OK.

I got to say, I wouldn't be spending any of my $$$ on Chinese clone VM34s. (If that's what they are). It's your choice but I don't see it going well personally. Perhaps put a link here, let's see what you ordered?

 

[Wagner73]

Also, while VM34 spigots will "fit" the BS34 boots, the fit is not ideal i.e. they will function if you tighten them down with a hose clamp, but the BS34 boots are slightly too big. Manifolds made for the VM34's are a surer bet.

 

[gusto]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/316552016043
Maybe they'll work. It's the long term you have to worry about them warping. I think to just get bike running in short term theyll work but really don't know for sure just what I'm thinking. The real ones are 450 bucks compare to 63 bucks. I might just do vintage cleaned up ones off eBay for 150 or 200 but first trying cheap stuff because I still need to get the pma cdi which is a pretty penny.

 

[Jim]

I still need to get the pma cdi which is a pretty penny.

If you still have your old alternator, save your money on the PMA. Properly set up, the original is better than a PMA... and repairing it will be pennies on the dollar compared to the PMA

 

[650Skull]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/316552016043
Maybe they'll work. It's the long term you have to worry about them warping. I think to just get bike running in short term theyll work but really don't know for sure just what I'm thinking. The real ones are 450 bucks compare to 63 bucks. I might just do vintage cleaned up ones off eBay for 150 or 200 but first trying cheap stuff because I still need to get the pma cdi which is a pretty penny.

You pay for what you get. Saving money doesn't necessarily mean those carbs are jetted for the XS or they will work properly
If not properly jetted you will b bald, old, frustrated broke and the bike will b throwen into the ditch and set on fire.

 

[Wingedwheel]

you will b bald, old, frustrated broke and the bike will b throwen into the ditch and set on fire.

Sounds like a man with experience!

 

[Its been a long time]

If you still have your old alternator, save your money on the PMA. Properly set up, the original is better than a PMA... and repairing it will be pennies on the dollar compared to the PMA

Definitely this ^^^^^

 

[gusto]

Bought bike in parts so I don't have the points or retarder or carbs Plus a bunch of electronics were just chopped off so no connection even and no harness. I gotta do all the wiring. Original alternator wires are pretty old. Might have to put it on to set timing chain master link. By the way someone crazy put lock tite on the woodruf key. And I think they use different keys. Any secret get loctite out trick. Plan on tryng heat.

 

[gusto]

Called it the retarder when really I think it's an advancer. Called the oven the freezer today too.

 

[JJames]

Definitely this ^^^^^

Uh huh.