Dipstick marks?

londoncabby

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This is the dipstick on my 78 would you agree that the blue line is low yellow is middle and black full? Or is it just blue and yellow high and low?
 

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From the factory manual -

View attachment 326746
Yet another rabbit hole to get lost in the weeds on. Has anyone ever actually measured their dipstick markings, like in the manual picture? I have. I think that picture is wrong.
I contend that:
The early dipsticks had a higher "high" mark.
The lower mark never moved.
The 140mm measurement in the pic is correct for later dipsticks.
The 25mm measurement is wrong. It does not refer to the distance between the marks an a later dipstick, nor does it refer to the distance from the low mark to the end on the stick on any year dipstick.

However, 25mm IS the measurement between the marks on an early dipstick.
And on an early dipstick, the measurement to the first mark is 130mm, not 140mm. That's the 10mm difference the factory manual cites.

In other words, in that manual picture, they have conflated the two dipsticks. The 140mm measurement is from a later dipstick, and the 25mm is from an early dipstick.

Rambling on: I think the consensus is that they lowered the high mark because too much oil was being blown out the crankcase breather. And, that's why they actually recommend that you use the dotted line mark, halfway between high and low on a later dipstick. To lessen the oil being blown out the breather.
 
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I have a '72 XS2. From the above, my (original) dipstick measures 130mm to the MAX line. And the MAX line is 25mm above the MIN line. So if I want to lower the oil level to the revised factory recommendation, I shouldn't fill the oil any higher than halfway between my MAX and MIN lines.

Or maybe I should just buy a later dipstick on eBay. . . .
 
I have a '72 XS2. From the above, my (original) dipstick measures 130mm to the MAX line. And the MAX line is 25mm above the MIN line. So if I want to lower the oil level to the revised factory recommendation, I shouldn't fill the oil any higher than halfway between my MAX and MIN lines.

Or maybe I should just buy a later dipstick on eBay. . . .

I seem to remember that being how it is on mine. If you’re unsure, for your next oil change add the new suggested amount and see where it is.
 
I recall another post a long while ago where I believe @Jim suggested doing something like this. Drain oil; refill with correct amount; chose how you will check your oil in the future - center stand, stand it upright or whatever you like; stick the dipstick back in - resting in the hole or screwed in - it doesn’t matter. Then remove the dipstick and mark the oil level on the stick - a small nick with a file if the oil level doesn’t line up with a factory marking. That’s the full mark. Check it in the same manner each time. I like this method.
 
I decided to buy a later dipstick for my '72. Cheap on eBay. The later ones have a plastic threaded section, which won't heat up like the early metal dipstick, so a little easier to check oil level on a hot engine.
 
Just swapped my original XS2 dipstick for a later type dipstick. For weight weenies, the later dipstick is significantly lighter than the early dipstick.

The 140mm measurement in the pic is correct for the later dipstick. The early dipstick measures 130mm.
The 25mm measurement in the pic is correct for the early dipstick. The later dipstick measures 17mm.

The upper line on the later dipstick is 10mm lower than the upper line on the early dipstick (140mm vs. 130mm)
The midpoint on the later dipstick is ~6mm lower than the midpoint on the early dipstick (148mm vs. 142mm)
The lower line on the later dipstick is slightly (~2mm) lower than the early dipstick (157mm vs. 155mm)

I'm riding the XS2 on the Moto Melee in a couple of weeks and am hoping lowering the oil level will help to keep oil from barfing out of the crankcase vent tube. I also bought the Heiden Tuning reed valve crankcase breather setup, which should also help. But I want to see what happens running the lower oil level before I install the reed valve setup.
 
I've had great success with a DIY reed valve breather. Turned a previous dirty girl into a clean mean machine even though the motor's a bit tired and uses some oil. I stay somewhere between the low mark and half way tween the marks on all of em. usually only fill to the half way if I'm going to be racking up some miles.
 
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