One year old Shorai lithium. I hadn't formally tested the battery prior to beginning my system checks, but the electric starter (i.e., decompression lever) worked fine. So I kinda doubt the battery's the issue.Older battery?
Yes, it's currently just about all the way in. I don't like to adjust things to the max (or min), so I backed it out just a wee bit. But, essentially, it's maxed-out and not producing the proper volt readings (14.5+VDC). Another indicator to me that there's an issue there somewhere..Just so we are om the same page here the adjuster has been adjusted as far as possible ?
But wont get the desired ca 14 V in the system
We have change in light intensity means charging we dont know if OKYes, it's currently just about all the way in. I don't like to adjust things to the max (or min), so I backed it out just a wee bit. But, essentially, it's maxed-out and not producing the proper volt readings (14.5+VDC). Another indicator to me that there's an issue there somewhere..
Thank you for the recommendation. I just ordered NOS OEM regulator and rectifier. A bit more than $15, but she's my baby, so...I would buy one electronic regulator as per Others recommendation what is Available in The US
I guess 10 - 15 Dollars .Hook that one up se what happens
The alternative is fault finding that can be time consuming and difficult.
Been doing that over the years.
I have had bad experiences with those mechanical regulators.
If the 15 dollars is nothing to accept I would measure the slip ring resistance on the rotor and report it here
so Mr Jim can have an opinion
Yes, normal. That's the resistor current runs through on it's way to the rotor. It can (will) get too hot to touch.This may be relevant....
This component gets very hot within minutes of starting the engine. It's been like that for years, so I reckoned it's supposed to be that way. But perhaps not??
Thanks for the link, Jim. I've actually read (and followed) your guide before. It's been awhile tho'..Yes, normal. That's the resistor current runs through on it's way to the rotor. It can (will) get too hot to touch.
H-light dim at idle and getting brighter when rev'd is also normal.
My opinion... the book way of testing is bullshit. I never pull the fuse. Just adjust the regulator until we get good voltage at about 3000rpm and it doesn't climb any higher after that. There's no logical reason for taking the battery out of the system (pulled fuse). Real world test/adjustment is almost always the preferred way.
Have a read here...
https://www.xs650.com/threads/rewound-alternator-rotor.54276/post-584935
Unfortunately, because the Clymer guide I was following did not mention checking the volts with the headlight ON, I didn't do that. But it logically follows that if the light dims at idle, so do the volts. If I remember correctly, I think the idling volts were ~12.6~12.9-ish.I have never pulled any fuses measuring
I Measure across battery
And 14.1 V I think is OK --- If lights is on .. I would check at above 3 k if slightly higher OK
If charging is low the battery will go low
And also if there is a short somewhere.
Yeah, that's what I thought. So I was following the Clymer guide to achieve (closer to) the ideal.Being just under 14v is low... anything over 13.5 is acceptable, but on the low side. 14 to 14.5v is ideal.
Nope, not at all. My bike charges perfectly at 14.4v. At idle it's 12.7-ish and the headlight is dim. Soon as I rev the engine it get bright. Perfectly normal.From yours and other comments here, perhaps it's not an issue???
Many thanks, Jim.Nope, not at all. My bike charges perfectly at 14.4v. At idle it's 12.7-ish and the headlight is dim. Soon as I rev the engine it get bright. Perfectly normal.
Well, as I said your charge is a little on the low side. Acceptable, but low. Perhaps it's now low enough that it won't sustain the ignition at idle.Many thanks, Jim.
However, there's still that (new) fuse issue. Although it may not be required to measure system volts (at the battery), something obviously changed or got damaged between the time the engine continued to run w/o the fuse and, now, where the engine stops as soon as it's disconnected. Any thoughts as to what component to check/point the finger at?
As the bike's been winterized, I won't be able to re-check the fuse-pulling at 2500RPM 'til spring. But I'll definitely do that.Well, as I said your charge is a little on the low side. Acceptable, but low. Perhaps it's now low enough that it won't sustain the ignition at idle.
Try setting your idle up to about 2500rpm and then pull the fuse. See if it stays running?
I think 11VDC is ALOT low. At that point, the LED charging indicator would be in the red, which I've never seen.Scenario: if idle voltage is a little low (~11 VDC) and the key switch has a little extra voltage drop (perhaps 1VDC), now the coil is seeing <10VDC and not enough spark to stay running