Doms XS650B US import

Very little progress lately...the World Cup has started so everything goes out of the window!

I'm still debating stripping it to the bare frame but can't decide A. If it's really necessary B. If I do whether I go powdercoat or rattle can or even get it sprayed professionally.
I would go with professionally sprayed with a 2k product. 2k is far superior to most rattle cans as it is more durable, although I understand that there are some 2k rattle can products available. Never tried them but maybe someone else here has.
 
I would go with professionally sprayed with a 2k product. 2k is far superior to most rattle cans as it is more durable, although I understand that there are some 2k rattle can products available. Never tried them but maybe someone else here has.
Yes, I've had car parts powdercoated before and they can chip very easily. Whether that is down to the person doing the PC or just the nature of it I don't know.
 
Yes, I've had car parts powdercoated before and they can chip very easily. Whether that is down to the person doing the PC or just the nature of it I don't know.
My big issue with PC is thickness and as NielsB pointed out, plugged threads. It generally is a very good system.
 
Can recommend these guys in Bristol. Had a couple if frames and various parts dome by them. They plug threads and produce a top quality finish.
https://www.bristolmotorcyclepowdercoating.co.uk/
Bristol seems to be the go to place for powder coating! I recently had all my XS2 black bits powder coated by www.realitymotorworks.com, also Bristol. All parts £320 and a choice of shiny black or classic 70s black. There will be no problem with threads as all are sealed with tape and the frame number is still visible. This place is a one stop shop for welding, plating, vapour/bead/ grit blasting, polishing and wheel building.
Reality Motorworks 0117 904 2339 , BS15 1PA.
 
Yes, I've had car parts powdercoated before and they can chip very easily. Whether that is down to the person doing the PC or just the nature of it I don't know.
I used to be involved with a car repair shop. We would recommend 2K paint over powder coat; it seemed more durable and easier to repair.
 
Bristol seems to be the go to place for powder coating! I recently had all my XS2 black bits powder coated by www.realitymotorworks.com, also Bristol. All parts £320 and a choice of shiny black or classic 70s black. There will be no problem with threads as all are sealed with tape and the frame number is still visible. This place is a one stop shop for welding, plating, vapour/bead/ grit blasting, polishing and wheel building.
Reality Motorworks 0117 904 2339 , BS15 1PA.
Funny you should say that, I'm getting my tank and side covers Resprayed by ultimate bike paint near Bristol
 
Don will be interested to see how you get on with Ultimate Bike Paint, I also had my Yamaha Trials bike tank painted by a Bristol based painter (TJC Design) which was recommended by the Z1 Owners Club. I will be needing to get the XS2 sprayed in European orange/black which will require some effort to get the stripes right.
 
Don will be interested to see how you get on with Ultimate Bike Paint, I also had my Yamaha Trials bike tank painted by a Bristol based painter (TJC Design) which was recommended by the Z1 Owners Club. I will be needing to get the XS2 sprayed in European orange/black which will require some effort to get the stripes right.
I'm hoping to get it done in early next year so I'll let you know.
 
Just my 2 cents on powder coating vs paint. I have several times seen people have problems with powder coat such as clogged threads and things that won't fit due to the thickness of the coat. Also of course the electrics not working due to earths being coated. I am lucky enough to have a chap locally, well Darnick, who does old-style stove-enamel. His 'autoclave' is an old filing cupboard which he hangs the frame inside. There are other people around who offer stoving.

Many moons ago, I hand stripped a Z1 frame then painted it. The stripping was most of the work. I then applied a zinc primer and then 2-part yacht enamel, all done by hand using a 1" paintbrush. Surprisingly, the finish was pretty good, at least I felt it was good enough for the frame and it proved durable.
 
The dash fascia is getting there, I need to describe on how to do the label decals and I finish. I've been wondering about using a bronze rattle can to try and replicate the original colour or just a gloss or satin black.
 

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Very little progress lately...the World Cup has started so everything goes out of the window!

I'm still debating stripping it to the bare frame but can't decide A. If it's really necessary B. If I do whether I go powdercoat or rattle can or even get it sprayed professionally.
What level of finish are you looking for on your frame? Look carefully at your bike. There are really only a few spots that are fully visiible. Those areas , I feel, can be rattle canned nicely. Some prep, some maskiing tape and paper and you can shoot them nicely. YRMV
 
The dash fascia is getting there, I need to describe on how to do the label decals and I finish. I've been wondering about using a bronze rattle can to try and replicate the original colour or just a gloss or satin black.
Hammered metal finish? Crinkle coat?
 
That's my thought @Raymond , where as I like the originality of the bronze it also hurts my eyes a bit, maybe I make another?!

How shall I go about decaling it?
 
Due to the postal strikes I'm still waiting on some waterslide transfers for my dash pieces😴

While I've been waiting I've drained my fuel tank and done a rust treatment on the insides using the trusty old electrolysis method that I've used before on rilusty stuff. It works so well if a little slowly but as the World Cup is on I'm happy with that arrangement 😁 It should be done by today so I'll need to do something to prevent flash rust while it's off being painted, I've thought of phosphoric acid or a slosh with diesel or a thin oil but not sure the paint guy will appreciate the latter methods. Any other thoughts on this folks?
 
Any tips on flushing a fuel tank with Phosphoric acid? I've got a litre of 81% here, I've read varying levels of dilution for very varied lengths of time but thought I might go with around 30%, sloshed around and lay at different angles for an hour at a time.
 
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