Dreaded Cam Chain Guide

Bosco
Quote :
"Seems like there’s quite a few of us who would like this part. If someone orders and receives a part with proper construction, please share the source. I can get one from XS650Direct to see how it “measures up” unless someone else has done that recently.
Just tried placing an order with XS650Direct but their site is down. Will keep trying and will post pics when received."

Bosco
650direct's web site has been malfunctioning for months.
I dont know why they dont fix it.
You need to send them an email and they will get back to you and tell you how to order.
I have a Mikes guide (same as 650direct) and it has the problem of the bolts being at a slight different angle to the original, but it seems there is enough slack/play in the way it mounts to allow it to fit okay.
Regards - Ray.
p.s. - Gary Hoos closing has no direct effect on me because the freight to Australia is so hideously expensive that you cant afford to order from multiple suppliers, so you end up compromising on some parts because it has to be included with lots of other parts from the supplier that can fill the order the best.
Of course, every now and again you have to make an exception because you have to have that right part.
Freight for every order from mikes or direct is in excess of $100 Aus.
EBC quoted me $120 Aus freight for 6 clutch springs from England.
 
Bosco
Quote :
"Seems like there’s quite a few of us who would like this part. If someone orders and receives a part with proper construction, please share the source. I can get one from XS650Direct to see how it “measures up” unless someone else has done that recently.
Just tried placing an order with XS650Direct but their site is down. Will keep trying and will post pics when received."

Bosco
650direct's web site has been malfunctioning for months.
I dont know why they dont fix it.
You need to send them an email and they will get back to you and tell you how to order.
I have a Mikes guide (same as 650direct) and it has the problem of the bolts being at a slight different angle to the original, but it seems there is enough slack/play in the way it mounts to allow it to fit okay.
Regards - Ray.
p.s. - Gary Hoos closing has no direct effect on me because the freight to Australia is so hideously expensive that you cant afford to order from multiple suppliers, so you end up compromising on some parts because it has to be included with lots of other parts from the supplier that can fill the order the best.
Of course, every now and again you have to make an exception because you have to have that right part.
Freight for every order from mikes or direct is in excess of $100 Aus.
EBC quoted me $120 Aus freight for 6 clutch springs from England.
Thanks for the intel Ray. I’ll email them and question them about the bolt hole alignment. I’m sure they must have some feedback on this if the holes are indeed misaligned. If they are I’ll wait to see if any other sources come up with a good source.

Too bad about shipping costs to Australia. Is that because vendors insist on using couriers?

Just for interests sake I just went on Canada Post‘s website. Using their rate calculator, the cost to mail a 10” x 8“ x 3” box, weighing 3lbs was $33 cad or $36 aud. That’s a basic shipping rate with no bells or whistles. In the future, if I can help mail something to you, lmk.
 
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Bosco - when I had the ordering problem with 650direct, I kept a note of what I needed to do. Following is a copy of those notes from my records.
I hope that makes sense and it helps you a bit.

My email to them
"XS650Direct – problems ordering – page goes blank when going to checkout.
29/11/22.
Email xs650direct@hotmail.com"

Their Answer
"Thanks for reaching out, I have passed this along to our web developer to look into. For now if you email me the part numbers you would like and your ship to address I will send you a paypal invoice that can be paid with CC or paypal."

I dont know why the shipping rates are so high - I could be getting ripped off - I recently ordered genuine mikuni floats from Niche Cycles and the shipping was approx $30 Aud versus Mikes at approx $110 Aud. You have to be very careful you have ordered eveything you need because its expensive if you miss just one item - another $110 for shipping.
Regards and thanks for your kind offer to help - Ray.
 
It runs, not only that runs pretty damn good. I need to go through a couple of start up and warm cycles for ring seating and the current battery is a piece of crap on its last legs but may get the job done. For the time being I guess the "Old Girl" is on the saved list. Going to wait to make sure before I start to order the "Make It Pretty Parts". Thanks again for all of the input.....

George
 

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Heard back from XS650DIRECT and they claim they are not aware of any issues, but also advise if I’m concerned I should buy an OEM replacement part. Reading between the lines this tells me there may be possible issues with bolt hole orientation.

Oh yes, the old classic vague "not aware of" disclaimer of any responsibility. :rolleyes:
 
It runs, not only that runs pretty damn good. I need to go through a couple of start up and warm cycles for ring seating and the current battery is a piece of crap on its last legs but may get the job done. For the time being I guess the "Old Girl" is on the saved list. Going to wait to make sure before I start to order the "Make It Pretty Parts". Thanks again for all of the input.....

George

Sorry we all kind of went off the deep end hijacking your thread regarding chain guides....but, in our defense, it is in the title at least. 😁
 
Just keep in mind, you will need/want to do several cylinder head nut re-torques in the first 500 or so miles. All those new, fresh gaskets will be compressing big time and the head nuts will get quite loose. If you don't do the re-torques, there's a good chance of springing leaks, lol.
 
Guys I could care less about any high-jacking of this tread, help yourselves. 5t, I plan on a couple more start and warm up cycles over the next few days and I will re-toque and will hit again after a few miles on the road, hard to do currently with no chain. So far I had one oil leak, my f&*k up, left the cap off of the cam chain adjuster. The compression is great, and it starts very easy. I had a hell of a time with the points, and getting the static timing dialed in. Some wear in the parts and I had to change out all of bugged up screws in the points plate with new allen heads. Currently I have no headlight, something in the wiring since the headlight bulb tests fine. I will be going through some of the old threads here concerning the safety relays and doing a little rerouting, sorry but I really prefer turning on my headlights and in my 60 years of riding have never hit the starter button while the motor was running.

BTW JanP, used set of standard bore jugs with honing, new stock rings and pistons. Rings were at the far end of gap but still within spec, seems to be fine. Compression when you kick it over takes an old man and small donkey.
 
Good to hear it lives Britman!
#1 cause of no headlight is not charging.
#2 probably is a fuggled light checker. I think they are less reliable than the bulbs..... :poo:
 
Good to hear it lives Britman!
#1 cause of no headlight is not charging.
#2 probably is a fuggled light checker. I think they are less reliable than the bulbs..... :poo:


Ehhh .hh ??

a 79 in the US has it those checker and relays ?
If not It would light with motor off on battery only. I believe --- without charging
 
Good job Britman, you wasted no time getting that done! Dang

I bookmarked ur page Jim, I might probably will actually make one of those Franken guides. I call it a gonzo guide now, lol since the gonzo tci any custom one off parts on here I refer to as gonzo such n such. But ya that 500 guide looks it will last as long as the bike.
 
While I realize its probably a moot point at this juncture, due to Gary being sold out now...I promised to follow up with verification pics when I received my guides from him.

They are straight and true, square to the holes (I verified all three). Bolts were a little stiff threading in as they're cast but they'll definitely work.

As I suspected, Gary's pic was a file photo (plagiarized elsewhere), because those part numbers are not on the back of the castings like Mike's are....that's a good thing! 👍

Incidentally, these arrived lightning fast...it really sucks that he's closing down shop, we really need guys like this in our community. 🥺


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After reviewing a number of threads here concerning bypassing relays, light checkers, and reserve lighting units I went to the garage with a test light and a bucket full of dialectic grease this morning. At the end of the day, all is working, the RLU has been banished, my model does not have a light checker so that was easy enough. Currently both the starter and headlight relays are still in place but I believe they are on browed time. The problem with the headlight was two fold, first the 6 volt stator wire was not hooked up to trip the relay, when I ran a jumper the light came on as soon as the bike fired, plus the high beam wire was unplugged in the nasty bucket. I also experimented with a temporary on and off switch if the relays disappear completely, and I am about 90% that is going to be the order of the day. I have a small blade fuse block on order to clean up the fuses, they are currently wired into individual blades just to help chase issues. I will use half of that bucket of dialectic grease inside of the bucket, it just needs a good cleaning and all of the connections checked. I am beginning to believe this "Old Girl" wants to come back. I know the photo attached looks like a hoarder's back room, but it all makes sense to me, I think....
 

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Dont believe it is stock having a light relay on a 79
And never heard of 6 V on the bike
 
Unfortunately, from '78 on, the tail light is wired right into the ignition switch and comes on with it. Now, you can clip the blue wire coming out of the switch and running to the tail light (and hook it up to your toggle switch), but you'll lose the "parking light" feature (if that matters to you). The only way to do both is to mod the switch plate inside the ignition switch so it doesn't power the tail light in the "On" position, only in the "Park" position.
 
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