Elec diagram, key switch

[Arnoch]

Hello,

I made a schematic of my elec connection using the Revivalcycles guides, which by the way are very well done, but I'm a little off on the wiring of the key switch (5 wires) and the connection between the m-unit and the Boyer Brandsen ignition.

Here's my schematic: Elec schematic, key switch.

If there are any elec specialists out there, I'd appreciate a little help, and don't hesitate to let me know if anything seems odd about the rest.

Thanks

 

[jaybar6]

Hello,

I made a schematic of my elec connection using the Revivalcycles guides, which by the way are very well done, but I'm a little off on the wiring of the key switch (5 wires) and the connection between the m-unit and the Boyer Brandsen ignition.

Here's my schematic: Elec schematic, key switch.
View attachment 348872

If there are any elec specialists out there, I'd appreciate a little help, and don't hesitate to let me know if anything seems odd about the rest.

Thanks

Your electrical diagram is too small to view.

 

[Arnoch]

Arf, ça devrait être mieux

https://i.servimg.com/u/f65/20/36/68/15/schema10.jpg

 

[gggGary]

changed the image so it can be read.
I haven't done an M-tronic but this would at least make the key useful.

But it leaves all the m-tonic functions unguarded by a key lock/disconnect. Is that how it should be? Do you carry a fob that activates everything or can anyone just sit on the bike and use the starter to grind the battery dead? Inquiring minds think there must be better diagrams out there.
You would want to ohm out your switch but the ignition switch connecting red to brown when on would be the standard Yamaha scheme.
I think you would want it to be in the line between the fuse and the M-unit. They confusingly show two different fuse to m-unit routes but don't make that very clear that it's to be one OR the other..
but I'm just guessing.

 

[Adamc]

@gggGary is right. Your drawing makes the key non-functional as you have hot live to both M-unit and starter independent of it.
Also why run an 'alternative main fuse' it just a further unnecessary complication; the m-unit is self protected from the factory.
Otherwise all good.

 

[Arnoch]

Thanks, I think I've understood following your messages.
The key switch has 4 positions (on, off, lock, P), but as everything goes through the m-unit and it's the one that manages the whole thing, only two positions are needed, the ON for powering up and the OFF which cuts off the m-unit and therefore the boyer and the starter relay.
PS: in fact there's only one fuse, the 20A fuse that supplies the m-unit.
Here's the new diagram, corrected and simplified, which should be correct?

 

[gggGary]

On your new diagram it LOOKS like you are still leaving the coil feed hot even when the key is off.
(found here; https://manuals.motogadget.com/docs/mo.unit V2/publish/English/01. Manuals/mo.unit_V2_Instructions.pdf#page=10&zoom=180,-133,15 ) This diagram shows the aux output next to the hot bus, feeding through the kill switch on the handle bar to the boyer and ignition coil. The ignition coil is NOT not connected to the hot bus.
You've also removed the kill switch, I'm a big fan of a good old fashioned mechanical kill switch right at the throttle. Seems safer, more betterer.

Post edited a couple bunch of times now.

 

[Arnoch]

Yes, it seems safer and I'll add a kill switch.

 

[Its been a long time]

I fully agree with the fusing of the circuits as per gggGary's post above. In the post above and below that, the ignition switch and other wiring (upstream of the m unit) is unfused and is not protected against shorts. It's a fire in the making.

 

[5twins]

None of the drawings look right to me yet, lol. As I understand it, the M unit should be fed power from the battery and then it divides and sends that power out to all the components on the bike. So, to fuse that power and be able to turn it on and off, I think the key switch should be spliced into the red wire running from the battery to the M unit, after the fuse and split-off running to the reg/rec. Connect the switch red to the battery side and the brown to the M unit side. That will send battery power into the switch and out on the brown wire (to the M unit) when the switch is turned on.

And I think you only want one wire connected to the power in terminal on the M unit, coming from the battery (and then through the ignition switch), not multiple wires like all the diagrams are showing. Anything needing power should be run off of one of the M unit's side output terminals.

 

[Jim]

None of the drawings look right to me yet, lol. As I understand it, the M unit should be fed power from the battery and then it divides and sends that power out to all the components on the bike. So, to fuse that power and be able to turn it on and off, I think the key switch should be spliced into the red wire running from the battery to the M unit, after the fuse and split-off running to the reg/rec. Connect the switch red to the battery side and the brown to the M unit side. That will send battery power into the switch and out on the brown wire (to the M unit) when the switch is turned on.

And I think you only want one wire connected to the power in terminal on the M unit, coming from the battery (and then through the ignition switch), not multiple wires like all the diagrams are showing. Anything needing power should be run off of one of the M unit's side output terminals.

Think of the M-unit as having a power relay built into it. Battery power goes directly into it on the BATT main terminal. That power sits at the input to a NO (normally open) relay. Off that same terminal, power also runs to the key sw.
When you turn the key on, power runs to the LOCK terminal on the unit. That power closes the relay, allowing power into the M-unit, turning it on.

 

[5twins]

OK, I get it now, lol. Pretty complicated unit. I'll stick with the original wiring, thank you, lol.