Eliminate the battery '73 TX650 Flat Tracker

mkcollier

XS650 Member
Messages
12
Reaction score
2
Points
3
Location
Centralia, IL
So I raced the Springfield TT this weekend, #96 if you were there. I have never liked the idea of a battery, just a personal thing. I want to eliminate the battery, I have read several older post but want to ensure I have the most up to date options and that because I am only flat tracking I make the right choice. Not a big budget but it needs to be right. Also need to look at the clutch cause man is it tough.
 
The only way to eliminate the battery, that I am aware of, is to do a PMA swap and replace the battery with a capacitor. Just search for the PMA on here, plenty of threads. You can either buy one or piece one together (wayyyyy cheaper).

What year bike do you have? Really what I'm asking is - do you have TCI or Points? OR a different ignition altogether?! If you have points, you're done. If you have TCI, you need to convert to Points (or cam driven ignition) or there is an option for a crank driven ignition for the PMA swap
http://www.hughshandbuilt.com/product/complete-xs650-cdi-system/

Those are the only options that I am currently aware of, but someone might be able to suggest something else.

I'm in Brighton, IL by the way.
 
Ok, so I read your other post from March, looks like you have a 1973 TX650. In that case, you would only need to do a PMA swap and add a capacitor, if you want to remove the battery. However, there is one other option that I didn't list above because it doesn't actually eliminate the battery.

You could just run a much smaller battery. I don't know how small you can go, but someone else that chose to go that route will likely chime in here.

BTW let's see the bike!
 
Talk the Gary at Hoos Racing (board name hooser, or Google for contact info). The Powerdynamo combined alternator and ignition system that he sells is a high quality German product, not Chiwanese junk that might cause a DNF.
 
good info guys thanks
grizld1 yeah one of the coils took a crap on me today at Neoga then the battery went south so looking to get a good reliable fix that won't cost an arm and a leg
 
Instead of dumping the battery, dump the charging system. Save some weight, add a few more HP's.
Use a modern light weight Lithium ion battery. This will run your bike for more than the time it takes to run the race. Racers have run this type system for years.
Leo
 
Instead of dumping the battery, dump the charging system. Save some weight, add a few more HP's.
Use a modern light weight Lithium ion battery. This will run your bike for more than the time it takes to run the race. Racers have run this type system for years.
Leo

Leo, I thought about that as well, but it would also depend on the length of the race AND whether or not the bike is for racing only. I should have asked.
 
Talk the Gary at Hoos Racing (board name hooser, or Google for contact info). The Powerdynamo combined alternator and ignition system that he sells is a high quality German product, not Chiwanese junk that might cause a DNF.

I forgot about the Powerdynamo.

However, if he pieces the PMA together (the cheapest way) he wouldn't be running the Chinese parts. My PMA is NOS Japanese parts for a VF500. Matching stator and reg/rect.
 
Good job, Leo; I got up this morning wondering what I could have been thinking, and you made the catch. Why would you waste power generating electricity you won't use? Race bike, gents: no lights, no horn, nothing but ignition.
 
OK let me clarify a little. As for HP it has plenty for me. I am trying to get something that fires up and runs first kick. If I am running all weekend I don't want to have to charge the battery so if I can eliminate it reasonably that is the direction I want to go. BTW you guys are giving me great info and I thank you.

OK so if I go with the VF500 Stator and reg/rect what capacitor?
 
Yeah Dave, I failed to suggest running total loss due to brain fart; it's the classic and best solution. Light current load on a PMA is not a good recipe, MK; that's been explained many times, so I won't repeat the sermon. A couple of spare batteries will set you back less than a PMA and give you a better chance to finish, but it's your bike and your money.
 
At first I wondered why no one suggested a TLI. MK, 2 batteries one always charged, Change before the final?
yeah we have discussed that (my uncle that has helped me with this build). I was thinking the no battery option would be easier. If I can use the small battery make for an easy switch TLI might be the way to go.
 
So I raced the Springfield TT this weekend, #96 if you were there. I have never liked the idea of a battery, just a personal thing. I want to eliminate the battery, I have read several older post but want to ensure I have the most up to date options and that because I am only flat tracking I make the right choice. Not a big budget but it needs to be right. Also need to look at the clutch cause man is it tough.

Hi mkcollier,
ignition is the only electrical thing a race bike needs.
Only two ways to go.
Dead loss battery/coils (small spillproof battery, take a bunch along, swap for a fully charged one each time you gas up)
Or
Go old school and fit a Morris magneto. (You can buy a shitload of fancy batteries for the price of a Morris magneto)
 
Hi mkcollier,
ignition is the only electrical thing a race bike needs.
Only two ways to go.
Dead loss battery/coils (small spillproof battery, take a bunch along, swap for a fully charged one each time you gas up)
Or
Go old school and fit a Morris magneto. (You can buy a shitload of fancy batteries for the price of a Morris magneto)

Yeah, I am actually with Fred. Also forgot about the damned Morris Magneto... :doh: I've apparently been gone too long. If you are dead set in doing a 100% battery free motor AND this is a 100% race bike (no headlight, tail light or anything else) I would absolutely do the Magneto. Not only could you ditch the battery, you could also ditch all of the weight from the charging system!! WIN WIN

http://shop.morrismagneto.com/products/yxs-for-yam-xs-650s

https://www.lowbrowcustoms.com/yxs-for-yamaha-xs650.html

Let's see some pics of the bike or it doesn't exist!
 
Not cleaned up from the races yet but here it is.


upload_2017-5-30_12-29-2.png
 

Attachments

  • 18817425_1489791217727347_747661607_o.jpg
    18817425_1489791217727347_747661607_o.jpg
    189.3 KB · Views: 176
  • 18870137_1489791191060683_1901404624_o.jpg
    18870137_1489791191060683_1901404624_o.jpg
    203 KB · Views: 208
  • 18789960_1489791194394016_1675336793_o.jpg
    18789960_1489791194394016_1675336793_o.jpg
    201.3 KB · Views: 239
- - - Also need to look at the clutch cause man is it tough.

Hi mkcollier,
after you've checked out the actual clutch, take a look at it's operating cable.
A cable that's new, lubricated and run in an easy swoop from handlebar lever to clutch will take half the effort to pull
than a cable that's old, dry and snaked through sharp bends to fit neatly under the gas tank.
 
I am curious... is fork flex not an issue when flat tracking? Obviously nobody is running fenders, but i am a little surprised not to see for braces on these bikes. I have never seen flat track races in person, just on the tube.
 
Back
Top