Emulator Knock off

I took a quick GTS and looked at the AI response. It said the XS650 stem is 9.5 inches and the RE is 100 mm. Definitely wrong!

If it’s easy to do, the RE fork is stiff. It will take Brembo calipers and an 18 in wheel. The RE fender also has appropriate appearance. I expect emulators are available.

What about total fork length?
Good question. Someone here probably has one they could measure.
 
opened up a fork I had laying around, the lower set of internals look familiar @dave_a ?
mebby FAFO what might work with a cheapo emulator.

I think ID'ing the years/changes to 34mm fork internals would be a worthwhile project.
 

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They're all different and none work worth a toot.
Yes, they're primitive. Not worth a toot? The stock shocks and front forks do a decent job of keeping the tires on the pavement. That's what they're designed to do for a variety of riders at a price point. Based upon that criterion, they're good enough. With some newer bikes the only improvements over that are thicker fork tubes and resized wheels & tires. All that said, I have participated in my share of peg dragging insanity aboard the XS650, even two-up. I'm grinning the whole time! I agree that there is room for improvement and I'm all for it. The stock suspension is at least adequate if functioning as its designers intended.
 
Yes, they're primitive. Not worth a toot? The stock shocks and front forks do a decent job of keeping the tires on the pavement. That's what they're designed to do for a variety of riders at a price point. Based upon that criterion, they're good enough. With some newer bikes the only improvements over that are thicker fork tubes and resized wheels & tires. All that said, I have participated in my share of peg dragging insanity aboard the XS650, even two-up. I'm grinning the whole time! I agree that there is room for improvement and I'm all for it. The stock suspension is at least "adequate if functioning as its designers intended"
I was making a joke, Marty. But adequate on smooth, flat, maybe even curved roads. Throw some pot holes, frost heaves, maybe even a FL manhole cover. Things testers don't see in SoCal. Your results may vary. Know what I mean?
 
I was making a joke, Marty. But adequate on smooth, flat, maybe even curved roads. Throw some pot holes, frost heaves, maybe even a FL manhole cover. Things testers don't see in SoCal. Your results may vary. Know what I mean?
Dave, we’re on the same page, trust me. Just the same, the discussion is valid. My Eleven Special with its custom springs, emulators, Tkat fork brace and upgraded shocks is a much better performer than stock, no argument. Add to that, when I left North Georgia’s smooth as glass roads for Mississippi’s 3rd world roads, all I had to do was pull the emulators and adjust two turns out (lucky guess).

Even on these less than favorable roads the XS650 stock suspension keeps the rubber on the road. If I were to pair down to just one old bike and it was my only bike, I’d probably do the mods.

The modifications aren’t cheap especially if you make mistakes along the way. You should do your own cost benefit analysis. My old Guzzi was a cheap bike and a far better performer than the modified XS11 with the exception of what happened when I grabbed a handful of throttle. That dinosaur still makes me grin.
img_1_1736695414613.jpg
 
Being a dinosaur myself, I like to sample old stuff. A modern Griso is on my short list tho'. I had a Come to Jesus speed wobble on a '78 XS11. So they're off my list. It had a fairing on it, but be careful with that one!
 
Looking at what i have collected here;
KIMG8431.JPG
it seems adding the "cheap" emulator to a modified (later?) style damper should be about the most effective/simple way forward.

KIMG8432.JPG
cut the "knob" off the damper end cap, drill it to fit bolt end and allow oil passage, enlarge cross drillings so they don't act as damper and machine groove in collar to accept slightly thicker sealing ring from a 35mm fork damper, That collar is located by a snap ring on the damper. file sealing ring ends til it fits 34mm tube ID. Assemble and check spring "sag"
Compare action to a non modded fork.
 
Looking at what i have collected here;
View attachment 342492
it seems adding the "cheap" emulator to a modified (later?) style damper should be about the most effective/simple way forward.

View attachment 342493
cut the "knob" off the damper end cap, drill it to fit bolt end and allow oil passage, enlarge cross drillings so they don't act as damper and machine groove in collar to accept slightly thicker sealing ring from a 35mm fork damper, That collar is located by a snap ring on the damper. file sealing ring ends til it fits 34mm tube ID. Assemble and check spring "sag"
Compare action to a non modded fork.
Red cut line should be below holes.
Like the instructions say, aim is to disable stock dampening and have all control in EMUL.
 
Red cut line should be below holes.
Like the instructions say, aim is to disable stock dampening and have all control in EMUL.
Automan, the challenge with 34mm rods is that the top of the rod is solid. Unlike the 35mm damper and your DRod. Racetech machine an adapter with slots to feed oul thru the emulator.
Look closely at the adaptor in the pic
 

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Automan, the challenge with 34mm rods is that the top of the rod is solid. Unlike the 35mm damper and your DRod. Racetech machine an adapter with slots to feed oul thru the emulator.
Look closely at the adaptor in the pic
We, or at least me are not following your responses.
The rod is steel?
The top hat is aluminum with the hex nub?
The 2 do not separate?

cliff
 
ring from 35mm damper will not work in 34 collar groove.
Wondering if an O-ring would work, thinking on alternatives there.
groove width 3.0mm
Tube ID 23.88
groove at bottom 20.69

so a ring of roughly 24 OD
3.0 wide and 1.2 thick
I suspect an o-ring will have more stiction than the plastic (?) ring. What about turning the right size on a lathe?
Late to the party so excuse if it's already been said, but any idea what the ring is made from.... nylon?
 
Maybe PTFE ("teflon")?
Mine are phenolic, trimmed on a 6" mini lathe for ID and OD.
Soft stuff is really hard to hold dimensions.

Pull the pin and unscrew the top hat.

Mind you, the quest was for something better than wacked out 40 year old stock parts.
Throw some fatter oil in and play with oil hgt. (really oil height is air spring)

10/15/20/30 oil weights and not motor oil.
 
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