engine rebuild - checks before I seal the cases

Jame5on

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Rebuilding a 75b engine.

following the thread along with a pile of manuals.

have a couple of questions before I get ready to seal the cases.
Any input would be helpful.
upload_2017-2-27_10-17-49.png

1. Does anything hold gear 4 on the shaft in the pic above? I looks like it could run up against the inside of the case but I don't see anything noted to hold it on?
2. Is there a best practices for checking the proper function of the gear box prior to closing things up. Once assembled I could rotate the shift drum by hand and run it through all of the gears and see the obvious changes. after installing the stopper plate and roller on the end of the drum as well as the spring and bolt for the neutral detent I can only switch it back and forth through two of the gears. Is this just a matter of the friction that will look better after go a couple more steps and get more leverage on it or do I need to undo it and work through this again?
3. In the Rob Gibson article on doing the rebuild ("Looking so go now for the chassis" page 28 picture 5) he refers to an oil seal on both ends of the crank -- Is this a typo? the line drawing does not show an oil seal on the left side?
4. Just to check so that I don't make a rooky mistake -- Yamabond on the oil seals during a rebuild? I don't see anything in the manuals about it. I see people using it when pressing them into existing engines but I don't see instruction during building?


Thanks in advance
 
1. The diagram looks like outside to inside right to left. Without having one disassembled here... the shaft would retain the outside of #4 and it would butt aganinst something on the inside.
2. On an assembled bike, you can shift through all the gears if you take out slack (or introduce slack?) by rolling the bike a couple inches in gear. Maybe try replicating that by hand with cases open. When I did mine, I didn't breathe on the transmission, to not have to deal with it.
3. There's an oil seal only on the left side of the crank. Make sure here that the pins in the case are inserted in the holes in the bearings. You can lift the crank a hair to let you turn the bearings one at a time a bit and you should be able to feel the pins hitting the sides of the hole.
4. No problem using sealer there. I did, adding a bit extra where the seal is intersected by the case mating surface on both sides of the seal. I've heard ppl complain about the short working time with Yamabond, etc. You can get Permatex Motoseal at Advance which is the same stuff only thinner. Gives good working time and will squeeze out in a nice thin bead. Do a trial fitting w/o sealer and only then lift the half off again and put sealer on.
 
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Thanks for confirming most of what I suspected.

as the the gear in the diagram at 4 it slides on to the splined chamfered shaft but the only thing that seems to be keeping it in place inside the case is the actual case. I am just concerned that if it shifts it could start to grind the case. I may be being overly cautious.
 
It probably shouldn't hit the case. There should be some clearance there or steel for it to meet or something. I would look in to it if it's going to slap against aluminum...
 
I don't think you need be concerned. That gear #4 engages the gear #3 below it. #3 is part of the #1 and 3 "cluster". Gear #1 is larger than #3 so I think the side of it holds the #4 gear on the shaft, not allowing it to slide into the case.
 
Honestly, that's probably a good thing. For the most part I find his posts half wrong and the other half not even understandable, even though he posts in English. I don't know, maybe it's the "Queen's English" thing. Anyway, I don't recommend anyone following his advice. And don't listen to me either, I don't know nothin', lol. Hey, this is the internet, anyone can say anything. It could be right but it is just as likely to be wrong.
 
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