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Ever inherited a project? Yeah, me too. 75 XS650 Frankenbuild. Brat? Tracker? What?
- Thread starter buzzword
- Start date
buzzword
XS650 Addict
Well, I had an unexpected shakedown run on Friday after a 3+ hour trip to DMV. The grand litany of paperwork I submitted to DMV was almost enough to get a title in hand, but they still told me I either need the Maine title, or a letter from Maine DMV stating that the bike is not titled. When the gentleman helping me told me the second option, I almost lost it because it seemed so ridiculous at the time. However, I had forgotten that some states don't issue titles for certain vehicles. Maine apparently stopped issuing titles for vehicles older than 1995 a few years ago. So, after a very pleasant (no kidding!!) conversation with a nice woman at Maine DMV, I have a letter en route from them stating this. She told me that a notarized bill of sale and a registration card (both of which I have) serve as the title for vehicles older than 1995 in Maine, and that's what the letter will say. So, once that shows up, I'll have another fun trip to DMV.
The other thing I had to do was get a VIN verification done by California Highway Patrol. However, this requires an appointment as there's only some officers that do the actual verifications. I took Friday off to get all this stuff done, but the earliest appointment I could get in SF, Oakland, or even the two CHP offices in Marin County was three weeks from now, and after 6 or 8 phone calls, I finally found a CHP office in Hayward that had a VIN officer working that day.
The idea of riding an unproven, recently-completed motorcycle 40-something miles on the freeway where traffic usually cruises along at 80 mph didn't seem super wise, but I threw caution to the wind and just did it.
The CHP verification process was super easy, the officer was very nice, and I just headed back to SF once it was done without incident. The bike ran great! Never felt like it was out of power, never skipped a beat, and did everything I wanted it to do!
Once I got home, I parked the bike, worked on a couple things (more later...) and went home for a bit. Came back in a few hours, and rode halfway across town - maybe 3 or 4 miles - and it started backfiring and sputtering like it was doing before I tuned the carbs a bit. I got it running OK with the choke on, but that just told me the left cylinder was running lean. Again. At first, I thought maybe timing had slipped, but it seems fine after re-lubing the advance mechanism and checking it with the timing light. I suspect it has a stuck float, or maybe some crud in the pilot jet on the left side. I tapped vigorously on the side of the float bowl to see if it would free up the stuck float if that was indeed an issue, and it idled a bit better, but I didn't have a chance to go ride it to see if it would act up again. I haven't gotten anything done since Saturday morning when I checked the timing.
Easter was a very busy day - had a 6am call time at church for the band I play in, and then spent half the rest of the day either rehearsing or playing for service. Got home around 2, took a 3+ hour nap, and woke up with a head cold. GREAT!!
Time machine...
Friday after I got back, I did manage to re-adjust the headset bearings since they felt somewhat sloppy under hard braking after the shakedown. No problems now - solid as a rock! I also drilled out the pins on the stock pegs and installed some steel YZ80 pegs I got on eBay for $20. These turned out to be a fantastic deal - they were a direct swap, same angle and everything. This was made complete with the addition of some flanged stainless M8x40mm hex bolts, washers, and a couple nylock nuts. I even re-used the stock springs!
I also rigged up a horn, which I'll probably keep on there. Still have to go get a California brake and lamp inspection, which also means it needs a horn. So be it. Here's the bracket I made + button I used:
Finally, I discovered the left side spark plug had a Time-Sert poorly installed at some point. This was not a fun realization. Imagine my fury...
So, I ordered some new Time-Serts, some new spark plugs, and some green expanding loctite. After doing some reading, I learned that you can install the inserts without their special tool by just using a new spark plug and letting the whole thing cure for 24 hours before trying to run it. I'll clean the threads up in the head, put anti-seize on the spark plug, and put green loctite on the threads of the insert, then thread the plug into the insert until it gets difficult, then thread the insert into the head. At that point, I'll have to tighten the spark plug into the insert to expand the last few threads so it'll (hopefully) stay in place. Such a bummer to find this, but hopefully it goes smoothly. I'd hate to have to do a top end rebuild on a motor with such low mileage. I just hope I don't continue finding boogered up crap like this. Very frustrating!
Finally, mechanical nonsense aside, she does look pretty good sitting in MY garage - it's finally out of my buddy's place - in between my '05 Forester XT Dad Wagon and the next project - a 99 DR350SE that's gonna get the supermoto treatment with 17" wheels, a modern upside-down RM250 fork, and some sticky rubber. That one's not gonna be too tricky - gotta do the top end on the motor, so to get it running it shouldn't take too long. I digress...
The other thing I had to do was get a VIN verification done by California Highway Patrol. However, this requires an appointment as there's only some officers that do the actual verifications. I took Friday off to get all this stuff done, but the earliest appointment I could get in SF, Oakland, or even the two CHP offices in Marin County was three weeks from now, and after 6 or 8 phone calls, I finally found a CHP office in Hayward that had a VIN officer working that day.
The idea of riding an unproven, recently-completed motorcycle 40-something miles on the freeway where traffic usually cruises along at 80 mph didn't seem super wise, but I threw caution to the wind and just did it.
The CHP verification process was super easy, the officer was very nice, and I just headed back to SF once it was done without incident. The bike ran great! Never felt like it was out of power, never skipped a beat, and did everything I wanted it to do!
Once I got home, I parked the bike, worked on a couple things (more later...) and went home for a bit. Came back in a few hours, and rode halfway across town - maybe 3 or 4 miles - and it started backfiring and sputtering like it was doing before I tuned the carbs a bit. I got it running OK with the choke on, but that just told me the left cylinder was running lean. Again. At first, I thought maybe timing had slipped, but it seems fine after re-lubing the advance mechanism and checking it with the timing light. I suspect it has a stuck float, or maybe some crud in the pilot jet on the left side. I tapped vigorously on the side of the float bowl to see if it would free up the stuck float if that was indeed an issue, and it idled a bit better, but I didn't have a chance to go ride it to see if it would act up again. I haven't gotten anything done since Saturday morning when I checked the timing.
Easter was a very busy day - had a 6am call time at church for the band I play in, and then spent half the rest of the day either rehearsing or playing for service. Got home around 2, took a 3+ hour nap, and woke up with a head cold. GREAT!!
Time machine...
Friday after I got back, I did manage to re-adjust the headset bearings since they felt somewhat sloppy under hard braking after the shakedown. No problems now - solid as a rock! I also drilled out the pins on the stock pegs and installed some steel YZ80 pegs I got on eBay for $20. These turned out to be a fantastic deal - they were a direct swap, same angle and everything. This was made complete with the addition of some flanged stainless M8x40mm hex bolts, washers, and a couple nylock nuts. I even re-used the stock springs!
I also rigged up a horn, which I'll probably keep on there. Still have to go get a California brake and lamp inspection, which also means it needs a horn. So be it. Here's the bracket I made + button I used:
Finally, I discovered the left side spark plug had a Time-Sert poorly installed at some point. This was not a fun realization. Imagine my fury...
So, I ordered some new Time-Serts, some new spark plugs, and some green expanding loctite. After doing some reading, I learned that you can install the inserts without their special tool by just using a new spark plug and letting the whole thing cure for 24 hours before trying to run it. I'll clean the threads up in the head, put anti-seize on the spark plug, and put green loctite on the threads of the insert, then thread the plug into the insert until it gets difficult, then thread the insert into the head. At that point, I'll have to tighten the spark plug into the insert to expand the last few threads so it'll (hopefully) stay in place. Such a bummer to find this, but hopefully it goes smoothly. I'd hate to have to do a top end rebuild on a motor with such low mileage. I just hope I don't continue finding boogered up crap like this. Very frustrating!
Finally, mechanical nonsense aside, she does look pretty good sitting in MY garage - it's finally out of my buddy's place - in between my '05 Forester XT Dad Wagon and the next project - a 99 DR350SE that's gonna get the supermoto treatment with 17" wheels, a modern upside-down RM250 fork, and some sticky rubber. That one's not gonna be too tricky - gotta do the top end on the motor, so to get it running it shouldn't take too long. I digress...
Man, you HAVE been busy. Anxious to hear how the Timesert fix goes.
I was constantly chasing clogged pilot jets, from weird globules growing in the gasohol. Had to do frequent pilot jet reverse flushes. Member DogBunny suggested using 'Ethanol Shield', and that reduced the frequency of the events. Then I switched to 'Ethanol free' gas. Doesn't happen anymore.
http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=42002
http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?p=343788&highlight=Ethanol#post343788
http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?p=439283&highlight=Ethanol#post439283
I was constantly chasing clogged pilot jets, from weird globules growing in the gasohol. Had to do frequent pilot jet reverse flushes. Member DogBunny suggested using 'Ethanol Shield', and that reduced the frequency of the events. Then I switched to 'Ethanol free' gas. Doesn't happen anymore.
http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=42002
http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?p=343788&highlight=Ethanol#post343788
http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?p=439283&highlight=Ethanol#post439283
buzzword
XS650 Addict
I have indeed. Only the slightest bit nervous about the Timesert thing - we'll see.
So, some choice language and gentle persuasion applied to the float bowls on behalf of myself and the non-business end of a screwdriver must have un-stuck the float and/or put the fear of the Lord into my carbs' innards, because the bike is running like a beast now. Unfortunately, here in the Peoples' Republik of Kalifornia, ethanol-free gas is not readily available. Per your suggestion, and a bunch of other reading I did, I got some of this stuff at the local auto parts store:
When I popped out of the auto parts store, I saw this treasure posted up. This 1973 is one of the cleaner ones I've seen, and if it's a factory-painted white one, it's the first one I've seen in the wild. Aircooled VWs are a deep, dark hole - kind of like 60s/70s motorcycles. Only now, the nicer examples - like this Thing - go for LOTS of money. My first car was a 71 standard beetle with a wide-eye baja kit, a 3" body lift, a bus trans, and a 1835cc engine with dual webers. So sketchy. I never even had it running on the street legally! I digress...
Ironically, 2M, I read through the links you posted when I was still scratching my head over carb issues a few weeks ago, and started building one of the spray nozzle things you made out of an aerosol can hose, tygon tubing, and shrink wrap - then realized I didn't have the appropriate diameter shrink wrap at the time so I put it on hold. Plus, the adjustments I've done have worked - so far. If this thing so much as hiccups again, I'm going to do a complete teardown on the carbs and start from the bottom up. I have access to a ultrasonic cleaner, so they'll get the royal treatment. I'll probably just re-use the jets and needles that are in there since it's running OK, but I'm thinking it couldn't hurt to refresh the seals, gaskets, and so forth.
Speaking of which, does anyone have recommendations on carb rebuild kits for the BS38 carbs? With previous bikes upon which I've performed such rebuilds, there's a lot of evidence supporting the notion that the ones you can get on eBay and so forth are turds, and not worth the brass their bits are machined from in many cases. I've had mixed luck - my opinion based on this kind of luck is that it depends largely on the level of detail and finesse one applies. Or, maybe I'm fooling myself. Anyway - any input, anyone?
I also discovered this little treasure when I was cleaning some stuff:
Yep, that's a tiny pinhole in the tank, as evidenced by the tiny amount of fuel running down the seam, and the bubbled clear coat. Doesn't appear to be leaking enough to be dangerous, but frustrating nonetheless. Gonna ask my buddy if he can TIG it, then I'll probably get it powdercoated just to seal the deal. Ugh. Nothing is easy.
Last edited:
buzzword
XS650 Addict
...so what's left? This is as much my own personal punch list as it is me asking for a bit of accountability so I don't just stop here since the dang thing is running and riding now. Without further ado:
Once I am well over this disgusting head cold, I gotta get an appropriate box and ship my old exhaust to its new owner up in the frozen Northlands of Minnesota. Glad it's going to a good home!!
If anyone needs a pristine battery box, uncut '78 Standard harness, or a stock and fully functional stator + flywheel, get at me! It's gonna go in the trash soon if not. My for sale thread is up to date in the classified section!
- CA BAR Brake and Lamp Inspection - have to do this to complete CA title and registration process.
- Clutch worm offset mod, install 1 piece clutch rod, modify clutch cable entry, and install flexy MMM clutch cable
- Install polished oil filter cover
- Investigate oil weep from sump plate. Probably some more boogered gasket crap that the previous builder overlooked.
- Repair tank pinhole leak at right-front seam (see last post)
- Time-sert repair on left spark plug
- Replace ground cable + solenoid to starter cable with 6ga wire + new terminals
- Shorten kickstand
- Swap bars + risers
- Finalize new seat stuff with Wes @ Counterbalance - just waiting on confirmation of my email "order" and a PayPal invoice
- Maybe paint the exhaust pipes? Now that they're getting some surface rust on them, the raw steel is appealing to me a bit more. I'll probably let them go a bit more, then clear them. If I hate it, I'm going to have them ceramic coated inside and out and be done with it.
Once I am well over this disgusting head cold, I gotta get an appropriate box and ship my old exhaust to its new owner up in the frozen Northlands of Minnesota. Glad it's going to a good home!!
If anyone needs a pristine battery box, uncut '78 Standard harness, or a stock and fully functional stator + flywheel, get at me! It's gonna go in the trash soon if not. My for sale thread is up to date in the classified section!
I had thought that Karman Ghias were all but extinct, until I spent some time in Arizona. They're everywhere.
In the late '70s, a friend of mine collected a bunch of worn out VW beetles, about 30 of those things, put them out in the pasture of his hobby farm. Big plans, or disease, your call.
Unfortunately, he also loved having goats. Everytime I'd visit, there'd be at least one goat atop a crushed-roof VW. And I mean, "Crushed Roof"! Wished I had a camera then.
That 'reverse flush' thing is just a bandaid, for emergencies. My tank, fuel lines, and filters are clean, yet this mystery 'goo' would just grow in the float bowls. I'm thinking undiscovered species...
In the late '70s, a friend of mine collected a bunch of worn out VW beetles, about 30 of those things, put them out in the pasture of his hobby farm. Big plans, or disease, your call.
Unfortunately, he also loved having goats. Everytime I'd visit, there'd be at least one goat atop a crushed-roof VW. And I mean, "Crushed Roof"! Wished I had a camera then.
That 'reverse flush' thing is just a bandaid, for emergencies. My tank, fuel lines, and filters are clean, yet this mystery 'goo' would just grow in the float bowls. I'm thinking undiscovered species...
Airwolfie
XS650 Guru
I just love that fat front tyre!
buzzword
XS650 Addict
cheers!
I need to put something fatter in the back once the rear wears out. Hopin I can fit something in the 130/80 range instead of the 4.10-18 that's on there now.
buzzword
XS650 Addict
wellllllll it turns out the timesert that is in there now is actually a big-sert, which is 16.8mm OD instead of the regular 15.x timesert. UGH!
So, I ordered a couple of the correct ones, and also - as an experiment - put the old one back in with expanding green loctite. Once it sets up, I should be able to get the plug out and I'll see if the insert is seated correctly. If not, I'll pull it with an EZ-out, and install the new ones the right way.
Also, made new 6ga cables for battery ground to a motor mount, and starter solenoid to starter terminal. Super solid! Still wrapped them with heat resistant braided sleeping and used heavy duty adhesive lined 3:1 heat shrink. No more floppy cable ends!
No pics, sorry.
So, I ordered a couple of the correct ones, and also - as an experiment - put the old one back in with expanding green loctite. Once it sets up, I should be able to get the plug out and I'll see if the insert is seated correctly. If not, I'll pull it with an EZ-out, and install the new ones the right way.
Also, made new 6ga cables for battery ground to a motor mount, and starter solenoid to starter terminal. Super solid! Still wrapped them with heat resistant braided sleeping and used heavy duty adhesive lined 3:1 heat shrink. No more floppy cable ends!
No pics, sorry.
buzzword
XS650 Addict
A few updates. It's been a couple days! SO busy, and finally almost recovered from the grossest cold in recent memory.
Ordered a seat from Wes @ Counterbalance last week. Now, every time I ride the bike, I grimace at how terrible the seat really is. The foam is more symbolic than anything, and the fit/finish is SO bad. Can't wait to have something that mounts solidly, looks great, and is actually comfortable. I think this will be another nice, and functional, focal point of the build.
Got a very brief window of time yesterday, so I checked on the newly-loctited Timesert. By "checked on it," I mean I re-installed it with green loctite the other day and let it sit overnight, so I wanted to make sure it was truly "stuck" in there. I gingerly tried to remove the spark plug after 24 hours, and it came out with no issue. So, it's all good for now. I did get new inserts just in case, so if it ever comes out on the plug again, I'll re-install with a new insert just for peace of mind.
One thing I discovered is that the old B8ES plugs were gapped just shy of .028 - so tiny! I gapped the new Iridium BPR7EIX plugs to .035 and the bike starts faster, pulls harder, and doesn't smell as bad. To me, this means it's burning more of the fuel, and sending less unburnt crap out the back. Great success!
I also took the left float bowl off, which was a pain in the butt with the pipes in the way, and the carb still mounted on the bike. So dumb. How do I get myself into these things?! Once inside, I took the float out and checked it for leaks - didn't find any, thankfully - then cleaned out the bowl, the main and pilot jets, and the float needle holder + needle. During re-assembly, I dropped the float needle and it bounced, then went down next to the chain where I couldn't see it from any angle. UGH!
However, since I had to take off the left side cover to retrieve the needle, this turned into a golden opportunity to replace the clutch rod with the one-piece one that 2M sent me. Taking the old two-piece rod and the middle ball bearing was a stupid conundrum since my flexy magnet has too large a diameter to fit into the opening. After a few stupid attempts, I took the brush end out of a cheap metal handle glue brush and jammed it in there. Retrieving it yielded both the middle 5/16" ball and the inner clutch rod jammed into the brush handle. Great success! Installed the new one-piece rod, re-lubed the worm, re-installed the cover, re-set the clutch adjustment, and that was that! Easy peasy.
Once the needle was retrieved and the clutch rod was installed, I squeezed the end of the float rod so it would sit a bit tighter in the post, and re-installed correctly. This time, I put a rag on top of the case under the carb so I wouldn't lose the needle again. Phew! I also added some inline fuel filters from the petcocks to the carbs, and so far the float has not gotten stuck again. I have yet to vacuum sync the carbs, or do plug chops, but I feel like I'm missing some top end. Any ideas?
Went and got the CA BAR Brake and Lamp Inspection done today at lunch. That was such a weird way to spend $95!! The guy verified that my signals work, hi/lo beam work, and brake light works, and that I have a horn and reflectors. Then, he filled out some paperwork, and gave me a couple certificates to share with DMV, and I was on my way 8 minutes later. I now have everything I need to go hand a thick pile of paper to DMV, and hopefully just get a plate and title in return. Hallelujah!
Updated to-do list:
Couple pictures in case you haven't seen enough of this thing...
Ordered a seat from Wes @ Counterbalance last week. Now, every time I ride the bike, I grimace at how terrible the seat really is. The foam is more symbolic than anything, and the fit/finish is SO bad. Can't wait to have something that mounts solidly, looks great, and is actually comfortable. I think this will be another nice, and functional, focal point of the build.
Got a very brief window of time yesterday, so I checked on the newly-loctited Timesert. By "checked on it," I mean I re-installed it with green loctite the other day and let it sit overnight, so I wanted to make sure it was truly "stuck" in there. I gingerly tried to remove the spark plug after 24 hours, and it came out with no issue. So, it's all good for now. I did get new inserts just in case, so if it ever comes out on the plug again, I'll re-install with a new insert just for peace of mind.
One thing I discovered is that the old B8ES plugs were gapped just shy of .028 - so tiny! I gapped the new Iridium BPR7EIX plugs to .035 and the bike starts faster, pulls harder, and doesn't smell as bad. To me, this means it's burning more of the fuel, and sending less unburnt crap out the back. Great success!
I also took the left float bowl off, which was a pain in the butt with the pipes in the way, and the carb still mounted on the bike. So dumb. How do I get myself into these things?! Once inside, I took the float out and checked it for leaks - didn't find any, thankfully - then cleaned out the bowl, the main and pilot jets, and the float needle holder + needle. During re-assembly, I dropped the float needle and it bounced, then went down next to the chain where I couldn't see it from any angle. UGH!
However, since I had to take off the left side cover to retrieve the needle, this turned into a golden opportunity to replace the clutch rod with the one-piece one that 2M sent me. Taking the old two-piece rod and the middle ball bearing was a stupid conundrum since my flexy magnet has too large a diameter to fit into the opening. After a few stupid attempts, I took the brush end out of a cheap metal handle glue brush and jammed it in there. Retrieving it yielded both the middle 5/16" ball and the inner clutch rod jammed into the brush handle. Great success! Installed the new one-piece rod, re-lubed the worm, re-installed the cover, re-set the clutch adjustment, and that was that! Easy peasy.
Once the needle was retrieved and the clutch rod was installed, I squeezed the end of the float rod so it would sit a bit tighter in the post, and re-installed correctly. This time, I put a rag on top of the case under the carb so I wouldn't lose the needle again. Phew! I also added some inline fuel filters from the petcocks to the carbs, and so far the float has not gotten stuck again. I have yet to vacuum sync the carbs, or do plug chops, but I feel like I'm missing some top end. Any ideas?
Went and got the CA BAR Brake and Lamp Inspection done today at lunch. That was such a weird way to spend $95!! The guy verified that my signals work, hi/lo beam work, and brake light works, and that I have a horn and reflectors. Then, he filled out some paperwork, and gave me a couple certificates to share with DMV, and I was on my way 8 minutes later. I now have everything I need to go hand a thick pile of paper to DMV, and hopefully just get a plate and title in return. Hallelujah!
Updated to-do list:
- Clutch worm offset mod, modify left cover cable entry, install flexy MMM clutch cable
- Install polished oil filter cover
- Investigate oil weep from sump plate. Probably some more boogered gasket crap that the previous builder overlooked.
- Repair tank pinhole leak at right-front seam.
- Shorten kickstand
- Swap bars + risers
- Maybe paint the exhaust pipes?
- MAAAAYBE get a bigger rear tire? I wonder if a 130/80-18 Shinko 705 would fit in the stock swingarm. Anyone tried this?
Couple pictures in case you haven't seen enough of this thing...
buzzword
XS650 Addict
Well, the stars aligned and I finalized the DMV process yesterday evening. Title and plate are in the mail they say. This is the list of documents I had to produce:
So, for those of you who don't yet have your ducks in a row in California, that's a comprehensive list of what worked for me. Please note that I NEVER had a Maine title for the bike, and despite what some may say, I was able to get a California title. It took time, effort, persistence, and about $300 total; this is including inspection, 2016 registration, and plate fees.
I could have been out of there in less than an hour, but I just HAD to ask if they were doing the cool black/yellow "legacy" plates for motorcycles - right as they were handing me the registration and new plate. The answer was yes, so my impulsive self just HAD to reinvent the wheel and ask if it was too late to get a black plate instead. An additional $49 later, another hour of waiting, and I'll have a black plate in a couple of weeks. It'll look something like this:
My prolonged point here is that my silly devotion to aesthetics cost me more money and time. Classic Walter. Glad this step is done now.
Also, I am riding this bike daily now, and it's SUPER fun. I sorta wish I would have gotten a slightly softer spring rate on the Hagon shocks I bought (100 vs. 120kg), but what's done is done. Hoping the thicker seat will help with the comfort factor.
- Maine DMV Vechicle Registration Card (expired)
- Maine DMV notarized Bill of Sale
- Letter from Maine DMV stating that a Bill of Sale and Registration Card together serve as a title for anything older than 1995
- California DMV Bill of Sale from PO to me
- California DMV Power of Attorney form signed by PO
- California DMV Statement of Facts form explaining the paper trail, origin of the bike, and how I got my grubby mitts on it
- California DMV Application for Title
- California Highway Patrol VIN Verification
- California Bureau of Automotive Repair Brake and Lamp inspection certificates
So, for those of you who don't yet have your ducks in a row in California, that's a comprehensive list of what worked for me. Please note that I NEVER had a Maine title for the bike, and despite what some may say, I was able to get a California title. It took time, effort, persistence, and about $300 total; this is including inspection, 2016 registration, and plate fees.
I could have been out of there in less than an hour, but I just HAD to ask if they were doing the cool black/yellow "legacy" plates for motorcycles - right as they were handing me the registration and new plate. The answer was yes, so my impulsive self just HAD to reinvent the wheel and ask if it was too late to get a black plate instead. An additional $49 later, another hour of waiting, and I'll have a black plate in a couple of weeks. It'll look something like this:
My prolonged point here is that my silly devotion to aesthetics cost me more money and time. Classic Walter. Glad this step is done now.
Also, I am riding this bike daily now, and it's SUPER fun. I sorta wish I would have gotten a slightly softer spring rate on the Hagon shocks I bought (100 vs. 120kg), but what's done is done. Hoping the thicker seat will help with the comfort factor.
Hi buzz,
Ooh, what a crazy song and dance rigamarole.
I prefer the Saskatchewan version:- Take a bill of sale to SGI for a computer hot list check and they print you a registration.
The photo don't show how the seat's fit'n'finish is but it does show that it ain't what I'd call a seat at all, it's more of a thinly padded plank.
130/80-18 should work.
My stock 130/90-16 fitted the swingarm except that it rubbed when Mr Cheap moved it right forward in the swingarm slots rather than buying a 106 link chain to let me fit a 38T rear sprocket.
My mathbox sez the radius of a 130/80-18 is 12mm more that that of a 130/90-16 so best you add a few links to your chain and pull the wheel backwards.
I'd also think about the rim width. Stock rim width for the 16" cast rear is 3"; what's yours?
Ooh, what a crazy song and dance rigamarole.
I prefer the Saskatchewan version:- Take a bill of sale to SGI for a computer hot list check and they print you a registration.
The photo don't show how the seat's fit'n'finish is but it does show that it ain't what I'd call a seat at all, it's more of a thinly padded plank.
130/80-18 should work.
My stock 130/90-16 fitted the swingarm except that it rubbed when Mr Cheap moved it right forward in the swingarm slots rather than buying a 106 link chain to let me fit a 38T rear sprocket.
My mathbox sez the radius of a 130/80-18 is 12mm more that that of a 130/90-16 so best you add a few links to your chain and pull the wheel backwards.
I'd also think about the rim width. Stock rim width for the 16" cast rear is 3"; what's yours?
buzzword
XS650 Addict
HI, FRED
That must be nice! It was most certainly a rigamarole. I think the whole fact that my friend never registered it in CA when it showed up was the biggest challenge. No worries now though, my CA plate showed up today!
It's REALLY bad, on all accounts. It fits poorly, and is finished even more poorly. Think cheap vinyl over a tiny bit of padding, and a fiberglass seat pan that was better in theory than in practice. Kind of like communism, it probably worked on paper. It's very uncomfortable, but I don't ride long distances much, so it's fine for riding around town and lane splitting my way to work and back. I am very much looking forward to the seat that Wes is making me. Should look and feel a million times better.
Good to know. The aesthete in me might balk at ordering the other Shinko dual sport tire (the 700) which won't match the front which is a 705.
...vs...
They don't make the 705 in a 130/80, but they do make a 120/80, so I might just suck it up and get that until I wear out a set and order some Heidenau K60s, which is what I really want.
Stock rear width for a spoked 18" drum brake wheel is 2.5" which is at the lower end of the acceptable range for a 120/80 or 130/80 tire. I'm pretty satisfied with the shouldered wheels on this bike, and I really don't mind the drum brake on the rear - I barely even use it, to be honest - especially with the overkill braking on the front.
Took a brief ride across the Golden Gate Bridge and up into the Marin Headlands on Sunday after church while my kiddo and wife were napping.
WARNING - SELFIE AHEAD!
I stopped and poached a short dirt trail in Golden Gate Park on my way home today to get a couple pictures...
That inner aesthete is really bothered by the exhaust pipes being slightly out of parallel, but I think I can rotate them slightly in the head and fix it - just haven't done it yet. Too busy riding!
Front brakes are doing some very slight juddering under mild braking conditions, which makes me think I need to re-tighten and re-torque everything in the front end. Doesn't feel sketchy at all, and doesn't really do it under hard braking - kinda weird. Might be that the pads and rotors don't like each other, but I kinda halfway expected that with used pads + new rotors. We shall see.
As always, I've strongly appreciated the wisdom on this site - thanks to everyone that's steered me in proper directions. Much appreciated!
buzzword
XS650 Addict
It never ends.
It really never ends.
What I thought was a leaky sump plate turns out to be slightly more annoying. This morning, I discovered that I left the petcocks on (GRRRRR!!) which we've all done at least once. The puddle of fuel on the ground looked dark, which didn't surprise me because there's some drips of oil in my parking space from where I thought the sump plate was leaking. When I started cleaning it up, it was REALLY thick, so I checked the oil, and it was a quart and a half low. UGH!!!
I took a look under the bike to see where the oil was really coming from, and I noticed one of the starter mount bolts missing, and the other one really loose. Then, I looked at the bolt next to the starter battery positive lug, and THAT one was ALSO really loose. So, I ran to the auto parts store a few blocks from my garage, made an educated guess, and bought a couple different lengths of M8x1.25 bolts, and another gallon of Rotella T. Got back, installed the missing bolt - no problem - and tried to tighten the other two. Well, the one that was loose is actually stripped, and the third one is either cross-threaded or bottomed out. So, with the starter having sat at a weird angle for at least a day, I assume the leak is actually coming from the starter crankcase seal. Curses! That final bolt may have just been loose, but then vibrated itself stuck. I don't know, and won't until I can get it up on the lift and actually take the time to fix it all correctly.
So, per this photo (not mine...) the mounting bolt at the yellowish arrow was missing, the one at the reddish arrow is cross-threaded, and the bottom one with no arrow is stripped. Ugh.
So what am I going to do about this? Looks like I'll be accelerating my oil change / sump plate re-seal process since I'll have to drain the oil anyway to do this whole shebang. I also ordered the following:
To reiterate, it never ends. You gotta do something for fun, though!
It really never ends.
What I thought was a leaky sump plate turns out to be slightly more annoying. This morning, I discovered that I left the petcocks on (GRRRRR!!) which we've all done at least once. The puddle of fuel on the ground looked dark, which didn't surprise me because there's some drips of oil in my parking space from where I thought the sump plate was leaking. When I started cleaning it up, it was REALLY thick, so I checked the oil, and it was a quart and a half low. UGH!!!
I took a look under the bike to see where the oil was really coming from, and I noticed one of the starter mount bolts missing, and the other one really loose. Then, I looked at the bolt next to the starter battery positive lug, and THAT one was ALSO really loose. So, I ran to the auto parts store a few blocks from my garage, made an educated guess, and bought a couple different lengths of M8x1.25 bolts, and another gallon of Rotella T. Got back, installed the missing bolt - no problem - and tried to tighten the other two. Well, the one that was loose is actually stripped, and the third one is either cross-threaded or bottomed out. So, with the starter having sat at a weird angle for at least a day, I assume the leak is actually coming from the starter crankcase seal. Curses! That final bolt may have just been loose, but then vibrated itself stuck. I don't know, and won't until I can get it up on the lift and actually take the time to fix it all correctly.
So, per this photo (not mine...) the mounting bolt at the yellowish arrow was missing, the one at the reddish arrow is cross-threaded, and the bottom one with no arrow is stripped. Ugh.
So what am I going to do about this? Looks like I'll be accelerating my oil change / sump plate re-seal process since I'll have to drain the oil anyway to do this whole shebang. I also ordered the following:
- M8x1.25 helicoil kit + a fresh 21/64 drill bit
- 10 piece engine oil seal kit from Mike's
- Copper oil drain gaskets. Looks like one is missing based on my visual inspection this morning.
- Fiber exhaust gaskets. Seems like the crush gaskets aren't sealing super well.
- New alternator cover seal - gonna have to replace this when I do the starter nonsense, at which time I'll also replace the countershaft and clutch rod seals.
To reiterate, it never ends. You gotta do something for fun, though!
Last edited:
buzzword
XS650 Addict
yeah ... I like the electric leg. Call me crazy...
It does start super quick with the kicker, but I like the lazy button.
buzzword
XS650 Addict
not yet, but it's gonna take a few weeks since he is ordering another horse hide from Horween. Can't wait - mine is such garbage.
buzzword
XS650 Addict
Well, it's been a while since I last updated, but I've managed to get laid off alongside 15 other people at my company due to capital market fears. Oh, well - I was planning to serve notice at the beginning of July, so they just upped my timeline. Whatever.
So, I've gotten a few things knocked off of the to-do list:
Forgive the bad picture:
Still need to shorten the kickstand. Embarrassingly enough, the bike actually fell over while parked and the mirror + bar end dented/scraped the passenger door on some lady's quite new Acura TSX sport wagon. Me being the honest joe that I am, I left her a note. She called me, and my insurance handled it. Hoping my premium doesn't go up markedly as a result. That's part of why I pay a year ahead of time! Accidents happen.
Still didn't do the countershaft and clutch rod seals, but the 2Many 7005 aluminum one piece clutch rod is doing a remarkable job. The lever feel is great, and the neutral hunting doesn't seem to happen as I imagine the one piece rod is way less affected by heat. I'll change those seals when I install the modified worm arm. Meanwhile, they don't seem to be leaking too badly, so whatever.
Still haven't found a replacement tank, or attempted a repair on mine. Doesn't seem to leak much at all, so I don't feel too bad about it. Also still need to replace exhaust gaskets - I'll probably do that tomorrow.
So, I've gotten a few things knocked off of the to-do list:
- Replaced the starter/engine case seal - this was a colossal pain, but well worth it considering the bike doesn't leak a drop of oil now. In the process, I also...
- Changed the oil to Rotella T5 15w40 standard dino oil. I accidentally bought T6 10w40 synthetic blend last time, and the clutch was slipping slightly. This seems to be working better. I also...
- Replaced the copper crush washers on the oil drains, and the starter gear gasket in the process of removing/re-installing the starter. No more leaks! Not even small ones - great success.
- Replaced all the starter mount bolts with longer, flanged ones. I am hoping they hold, because there's really not room to helicoil all four of them - maybe the two that are most easily accessed underneath, but it'd still be a pain. I used a healthy amount of blue loctite and torqued the bolts appropriately, so my guess is it'll hold just fine. I'll keep an eye on it though.
- My seat came in today! I'll have to trim my rear fender a bit, and cut a slot into front of the electronics tray to mount it. It is beautiful, and exceeds my expectations. Well worth both the money and the wait. Horween horse hide with an off-white double-stitched tuck-and-roll pattern. Drool!!
Forgive the bad picture:
Still need to shorten the kickstand. Embarrassingly enough, the bike actually fell over while parked and the mirror + bar end dented/scraped the passenger door on some lady's quite new Acura TSX sport wagon. Me being the honest joe that I am, I left her a note. She called me, and my insurance handled it. Hoping my premium doesn't go up markedly as a result. That's part of why I pay a year ahead of time! Accidents happen.
Still didn't do the countershaft and clutch rod seals, but the 2Many 7005 aluminum one piece clutch rod is doing a remarkable job. The lever feel is great, and the neutral hunting doesn't seem to happen as I imagine the one piece rod is way less affected by heat. I'll change those seals when I install the modified worm arm. Meanwhile, they don't seem to be leaking too badly, so whatever.
Still haven't found a replacement tank, or attempted a repair on mine. Doesn't seem to leak much at all, so I don't feel too bad about it. Also still need to replace exhaust gaskets - I'll probably do that tomorrow.
I saw your post in the other thread:
http://www.xs650.com/forum/showpost.php?p=463735&postcount=1822
And, thought of putting a response here. A loose sprocket nut guarantees oil leakage on the left side. Hopefully that's all it is. Otherwise, if the clutch pushrod seal is indeed leaking, consider these:
The bushing behind the seal. The pushrod should show very little, if any, wobble in that bushing.
Let me know if there's any grooving of the pushrod in the seal area. I'll send you another if necessary.
Check for dimpling on the end of the 8mm adjuster screw. That dimpling could cause side deflection of the pushrod.
Hope all's going well for you...
http://www.xs650.com/forum/showpost.php?p=463735&postcount=1822
And, thought of putting a response here. A loose sprocket nut guarantees oil leakage on the left side. Hopefully that's all it is. Otherwise, if the clutch pushrod seal is indeed leaking, consider these:
The bushing behind the seal. The pushrod should show very little, if any, wobble in that bushing.
Let me know if there's any grooving of the pushrod in the seal area. I'll send you another if necessary.
Check for dimpling on the end of the 8mm adjuster screw. That dimpling could cause side deflection of the pushrod.
Hope all's going well for you...
