the pic and my test suggestion is the ignition pickups, the plug is near the rear frame down tube, the pick ups are top right under the LH cover.
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Expanded charging system guide (In progress)
- Thread starter gggGary
- Start date
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- Tags
- electrical how to technical
bul_racer
XS650 Addict
OK, I hope you will be patient with me. Electronics is not my strong suit. I don't know what they mean by 'Disconnect the pickup coil wires from the TCI unit wires.' If you look at the picture you'll see that the pickup is attached by what appear to be rivets. Is this normal? To remove it I would have to drill out the rivets. There is no exposed wire so not sure how to check it there. Instead I disconnected the connector and checked resistance there. Readings I got there:
b/o = 757
b/g = 774
o/g = 1528
Also, how many brushes are there supposed to be? I expected 2 but there's only 1. You can see where the second brush would be is just a hole.
So you did the pick up test correctly and we can eliminate those as the issue (small caveat)
Yes in 1980 they used slotless screws to attach the pickups, timing is seldom an issue on TCI bikes but you can slot those heads and unscrew the "rivets", they changed to normal screw heads and slotted the pick up plate holes the next year to allow a bit of adjustment.
Now; about only one brush installed, LOL that needs work.
Might as well ohm the rotor slip rings as long as you are hot on the trail.
A PO was prolly covering up a thing or two at the sale. Fun will ensue.
Yes in 1980 they used slotless screws to attach the pickups, timing is seldom an issue on TCI bikes but you can slot those heads and unscrew the "rivets", they changed to normal screw heads and slotted the pick up plate holes the next year to allow a bit of adjustment.
Now; about only one brush installed, LOL that needs work.
Might as well ohm the rotor slip rings as long as you are hot on the trail.
A PO was prolly covering up a thing or two at the sale. Fun will ensue.
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bul_racer
XS650 Addict
So I should get another brush in there. Can't hurt, right?
You HAVE to have a brush in there. Well if you plan on riding more than 15 miles between battery charging.
The thing is someone removed that brush for a reason. Plan to spend some quality time figgering out what that reason was.
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And pay close attention to the screws for the brushes and brush holder. Just a hair too long and you'll destroy the rings on the rotor.
bul_racer
XS650 Addict
Thanks for clarifying. I will get it ordered.
bul_racer
XS650 Addict
bul_racer
XS650 Addict
Looking at where the wires come in to the brushes in some pictures it looks like it should have a brown, green & black. Mine looks to have a red wire but I assume that's supposed to be the brown. There's a green but no black. The brown & green are wrapped in a sheath. Could the sheath be metallic and serving as ground? It looks like the green is connected to the existing brush so I presume that the new brush will go to the brown?
https://photos.app.goo.gl/UJi6mSF8DhuxJ31KA
I my opinion, while you're in there, you should check the resistance between the rotor copper rings with a meter. Post the ohms reading here.
Fit two new brushes to the stator, they're not expensive and are service items.
Fit two new brushes to the stator, they're not expensive and are service items.
bul_racer
XS650 Addict
I have been unsure just where the regulator/rectifier is located but I think maybe I've found it. The item I'm thinking of is attached to the back of the downtube beneath and slightly in front of the battery box. I've not checked it yet but if this is it and if it is bad it looks like it may be difficult to remove. Anyway, here's a picture. Can anyone clarify I'm looking at the right thing?
Reg/Rec
Reg/Rec
bul_racer
XS650 Addict
Yes, checking the rings is my next step. Planning to get new brushes but, if possible I'd like to see what other items I need before ordering. Thanks!
Yep, that's it.
I wouldn't be surprised if the stock rec/reg has pooped the bed. It's pretty common and they tend to die in full charge mode, no regulation. A handle bar mounted voltage regulator is De-rigueur while chasing a functional charging system, and never a bad idea on any old bike. A clamp on voltmeter, USB port is a smart option.
bul_racer
XS650 Addict
bul_racer
XS650 Addict
Any recommendations?
bul_racer
XS650 Addict
Please pardon my density but I still don't understand item 3. If you bypass the voltage regulator then how does the test prove that the regulator isn't working? Seems to me that if you get the same reading with the bypass that you have without it, that would prove it's not working.
Solid state regulators (type A) vary the ground wire of the rotor to regulate charging. If you take that wire, the green one and ground it, it will allow full battery voltage through the rotor. That gives you max charging. So if the voltage climbs with revs... it can go upwards of 15+ volts... then that tells you the rotor, stator and rectifier are working (charging).
If it wasn't charging before, but grounding the green wire lets it charge, it means the regulator isn't regulating the ground wire correctly. Ergo, the regulator is bad.
If nothing changed when you grounded the green wire, then it's not the regulator... or not just the regulator. You might have multiple component failures.
bul_racer
XS650 Addict
bul_racer
XS650 Addict
I have not been able to get consistent readings using the multimeter I borrowed. Mostly, it doesn't stop on a number but continues displaying random numbers. When I have gotten it to stop I'm getting anything from 3.5 to about 5.5. Also, I'm not sure I'm doing it right. The idea is to place the leads with one on each ring? Does it matter where on the ring the leads are placed? I notice it's considerably shinier in the area where the brushes make contact.
