Experienced insight needed

[Wirenutt]

About the most frequent issue with the engine internals would be the timing chain guide and tensioner. It consists of an aluminum frame with some type of plastic (nylon?) bonded to it. That bond will sometimes fail.

Any other parts that may fail are generally easier to get to. In literally every XS650 I've bought, the suction screen in the sump is ripped.

If the area under the left side case is wet with oil, the clutch pushrod seal may be leaking, or it may just be lubrication getting slung off the chain.

If there is oil leaking behind the oil tube going to the head right at the head/cylinder interface, retorque the head bolts in the proper sequence. That stops it 90% of the time. On one engine, I had to torque the head bolts an extra 5 ft-lbs above spec to get it to stop leaking. Not recommended, but it worked for me.

There's a spring in the electric start mechanism that may have gotten weak or worn - that will cause the starter gears to disengage during starting. The engine was not originally designed for electric start, it was cobbled in after the first two years of sales. All stock XS650s have a kick starter. 70s and71s do not have electric start.

Finally, the rotor in the alternator will fail. Not "may" fail, it will fail, but they usually fail gradually, and you can see it coming. Contact Jim on here to rebuild it for you.

These engines are almost as simple as a lawn mower engine. Sturdy, overbuilt, good performance, and with some care will last longer than you will.

 

[Its been a long time]

yeah i dont mind the specials i would like the other bike the same guy is selling but hes asking too mcuh for it 6000 euro even though he has done a big bore kit on it to 840cc

View attachment 350906

Problem I have with that one is it's priced for almost perfection. And I doubt it is. Looks like Mikuni VM carbs but they could easily be Chinese fakes and the mufflers look really cheap and nasty to me. I have spent that kind of money on my 77 650D. But less than half was buying the bike, the rest is the cost of getting it right. I couldn't pay top dollar for something I have no confidence in what's inside those engine cases.

 

[Highpower]

Having done two project bikes in the last two years and doing all the work, including paint, electrical and mechanical. I can assure you that it is going to cost more than you think to “restore” a motorcycle, especially if you have to farm out some of it. I want wire wheels for mine with alloy rims. If I can’t find a set at a reasonable price, I’ll have to lace up a set with new spokes and rims and the price of the parts alone is going to make my eyes water. Fortunately I do my own lacing and truing so at least l’ll save a few bucks on the labor.

My advice is to find the one in the best condition with the lowest miles for the money. The ‘79 Special I just finished had 12K miles on the clock and it never even puffed a hint of smoke on the first start. Now that I’ve been riding it for a little bit, it just keeps running better. In other words, don’t be so quick to dive into the motor. Get it running first and see how it does.

 

[chubbybehemoth]

View attachment 350907

This bike has been serving me well since 1983. TCI ignition. I swapped the spoke wheels to cast.

Hey! This might be better as direct message, so apologies to the forum. I have the same model and would really love to do away with tubed tires. Where'd you source those beauts? I'm assuming the spoked wheels use tubes, is this correct?

 

[jetmechmarty]

Hey! This might be better as direct message, so apologies to the forum. I have the same model and would really love to do away with tubed tires. Where'd you source those beauts? I'm assuming the spoked wheels use tubes, is this correct?

To run cast wheels with tubeless tires on a Heritage Special (1982 or ‘83) you need a cast wheel from a 1981 XS650SH “Special.” That or a Canadian import wheel from a 1984 Heritage. Any cast Yamaha front wheel from 1978 to 1981 will do that job. XS650, XS750, XS850, XS1100 are all suitable donors. The XS650 and XS1100 share the same brake rotor. I think 1979 and later are marked “SUITABLE FOR TUBELESS” or something to that effect in one of the spokes. Those would be my preference. I believe 1978 and some 1979 cast wheel Yamahas were delivered with tubes in them.

 

[AUTOMAN]

i didnt think of the tubless tire thats a good point any way of making the spoked wheels tubeless?

Tube in tubeless tyres make the tyre run hotter and sticks better if just putzing around.

 

[JAX71224]

Tube in tubeless tyres make the tyre run hotter and sticks better if just putzing around.

I say 78 or 79 because I like those carbs best . Disc brakes on both ends is a plus also. A 79 with tubeless capable wheels would be great....but still points type ignition.

 

[650Skull]

This is what's required to change to a disc brake from a drum.
Need to change a lot of parts and make brackets to take the hydraulic components

https://www.xs650.com/threads/rear-brake-conversion-drum-to-disk-or-disk-to-drum.51944/

 

[chubbybehemoth]

To run cast wheels with tubeless tires on a Heritage Special (1982 or ‘83) you need a cast wheel from a 1981 XS650SH “Special.” That or a Canadian import wheel from a 1984 Heritage. Any cast Yamaha front wheel from 1978 to 1981 will do that job. XS650, XS750, XS850, XS1100 are all suitable donors. The XS650 and XS1100 share the same brake rotor. I think 1979 and later are marked “SUITABLE FOR TUBELESS” or something to that effect in one of the spokes. Those would be my preference. I believe 1978 and some 1979 cast wheel Yamahas were delivered with tubes in them.

I was wondering if the spoked I have are tubeless, but from past experience am presuming not so. Once I get them tires off I'll know for sure.

This is incredibly helpful, thank you for the information!!

 

[Kevin Werner]

Nice looking bike.
Looks to b an original 76C. Wheels and front end and tank confirm.
Can't see the front rotor or caliper mounts. Euro models were different to US models, all that info is in the link, previous post.
The work done on this bike looks good.
Comparing to what it will cost to get some of the other bikes up to the same condition could cost as much in the long run.

View attachment 350926

I am pretty sure that is the only Standard. Shock top mount ~2" baft of the frame tube. Specials have the shock top mount right at the frame tube junction. I concur, when we sell bikes we get pennies on the dollar for the time and money investment. Might be best to buy a nicer rider AND a cheap project...