Hey Willis,
I was just re reading your thread about building your shop. You’ve been in it a while now, how are you liking it?
I was just re reading your thread about building your shop. You’ve been in it a while now, how are you liking it?
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Finding my standard...
- Thread starter willis
- Start date
It’s a great little shop. I struggle with organization though. And now that I’ve got 3 bikes in there it’s getting a bit cramped. My biggest issue is regulating heat and ac. With the concrete and insulation it helps, but I’d like to have better solutions. I just went out today and bought a small floor fan that helps when it’s hot. Winter I’ve got a small radiant heater and a propane tank with heater element. I’d love to have a mini split, but not sure I could convince the wife of that “investment”. All in all though I’m very happy to have the workspace.
As you can see, space is an issue. I may lose the second workbench back in the corner though. Thinking of building a collapsible one that lays flat against the wall and I can pop up when needed. My main workbench is behind me an runs the full 10’ length of the wall with cabinets above.
A little update. Last week I bought a set of Mike’s “commando” pipes. Turns out they are just Emgo mufflers. You can see that thread here though if you want to know more about the pipes. I won’t go into that detail in this thread.
http://www.xs650.com/threads/commando-opinions.52753/
I got the pipes temporarily mounted up, just need to make a more solid muffler hanger arrangement, but that is in the works making some better brackets. Also need to fine tune the carbs in the future. But today I started attacked a few of the small issues that I had lingering. The turn signals never worked since I bought it, so I started there. I had the wiring from the headlight bucket out when I replaced the handlebars. I double checked my connections and all was good there. Then I moved to the flasher relay under the tank. It was the original unit and did not seem operational. I switched out with a new 552 automotive two blade type. I had to switch the orientation of the wires on the plug in, but that was a minor deal. First test try and I lost all power. Crapppp. Blew the fuse. I noticed I didn’t have the plug shoved all the way on. At this point I realized it was still running the original glass fuse block too. I remembered I had a mini blade inline fuse block in the parts stash. Crimped on a new bullet end and I was back in business with an upgraded fuse. Once I pushed the plug to a fully seated position I had working signals. So I killed two birds with one stone today. Although now the starter quit working, I’m pretty sure that’s just because of low voltage from working on the blinkers. It still kick started with ease.
Next I need to focus on fine tuning the carbs and exhaust. The idle seems to be hanging high and getting some backfiring on the right muffler. Sorry I didn’t get any more picks.
http://www.xs650.com/threads/commando-opinions.52753/
I got the pipes temporarily mounted up, just need to make a more solid muffler hanger arrangement, but that is in the works making some better brackets. Also need to fine tune the carbs in the future. But today I started attacked a few of the small issues that I had lingering. The turn signals never worked since I bought it, so I started there. I had the wiring from the headlight bucket out when I replaced the handlebars. I double checked my connections and all was good there. Then I moved to the flasher relay under the tank. It was the original unit and did not seem operational. I switched out with a new 552 automotive two blade type. I had to switch the orientation of the wires on the plug in, but that was a minor deal. First test try and I lost all power. Crapppp. Blew the fuse. I noticed I didn’t have the plug shoved all the way on. At this point I realized it was still running the original glass fuse block too. I remembered I had a mini blade inline fuse block in the parts stash. Crimped on a new bullet end and I was back in business with an upgraded fuse. Once I pushed the plug to a fully seated position I had working signals. So I killed two birds with one stone today. Although now the starter quit working, I’m pretty sure that’s just because of low voltage from working on the blinkers. It still kick started with ease.
Next I need to focus on fine tuning the carbs and exhaust. The idle seems to be hanging high and getting some backfiring on the right muffler. Sorry I didn’t get any more picks.
So I have been doing some investigating on the starter issue. The starter worked last week. Nothing has changed other than blowing the fuse when installing the new flasher relay. I put the battery on the trickle charger overnight, but still was not operational this morning. When I hit the starter button, there is nothing, except I noticed the brake lining indicator light comes on. I did not notice if this was happening last week when the starter was working, but looking at the wiring schematic i do see where it is supposed to be tied in the starter power supply line, so this may be normal? There is only one fuse in this system that I can see, and I replaced it yesterday with the mini blade setup and a 20A fuse. Is there something I should be looking at with the safety relay for the starter? A lot of this wiring seems to be hiding behind the air boxes so I have not had time to chase all those connections yet, but is next on my agenda.
Remove RH side cover, with ignition on; check for power at red white at bullet connector near solenoid, then ground the blue white . If that spins it; suspect ground and or other wiring issues in headlight bucket.
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thanks Gary, will report back once I dig in.
Inspect the heavy wire connection down on the starter motor itself. My starter didn't work when I got my bike and that was the issue. That connection was all rusty. It's in a bad spot, down under the motor there. It's exposed to lots of water and road grime while you ride. It has a rubber protection boot on it but mine was split.
Starter fixed. I pulled the R/S airbox off and found the blu/wht wire had come unplugged at the bullet connector to the starter relay. This must have happened when I pulled the wiring out to replace the glass inline fuse with the mini-blade. All systems are go again. Thanks.
Time to revive this thread. I knew this bike was going to be a slow burn build, and it is. I am gearing up to move to a new property in two weeks, so the slow burn will continue as I will need to set up my new workshop before I can resume on this project. I have however decided to slightly change directions with this build. Originally I was going to stick to a restoration with just a few upgrades (bars & pipes). That is still pretty much accurate, but I have veered a little more in another direction. I have always liked the looks of the xs2, it's just a classy looking machine. I also really like the 75 xsb paint scheme. So my build will now combine some of the things i like best of these 2 machines.
First on my list of things to change is the pipes. I was never really in love with the Commando pipes i bought from Mikes. They looked good, but they just didn't hit the mark for me. I bit the bullet earlier this week after much deliberation and bought a set of Mike's xs2 reproduction mufflers. Man are they expensive, and I sure hope the sound of these is close to the original ones Yamaha made. The new pipes are due for delivery today, and I will report back on the initial report once I get them in hand. There have been several members lately asking about these lately and maybe I can start a thread reviewing these like I did with the Commandos.
Second on my list of changes is the xsb dash. This has always been my biggest dislike of this bike. It's big and bulky and looks like it belongs on an 80's Goldwing to me. During my slow burn, while I may not have gotten much work done, I have still been picking up parts here and there for this build. Along the way I have collected all the pieces to convert the dash & gauges over to the xs2 style. The xs2 gauges are in pretty good shape, but the ignition switch I bought on ebay is questionable. Worst case I may buy a Mike's unit for $65 or so, but would much rather find a good original piece. I think these gauges will be a big improvement on the looks verses the stock units.
I am still not 100% on the CB750 bars I installed last year. They look ok but have a bit more pullback than I was hoping. I am contemplation switching out with a set of #10 tracker bars. They are very similar but with less pullback and a bit wider. The only downfall is that I would have to drill them out to run the wires internally. I really want the bars to stay clean, so internal wires are a must for me. Time will tell, as I have most of the parts readily available for this swap if I decide on that direction. Most important of all of these changes is the fact that I am keeping all the stock parts and can all be easily put back to original someday if I want. I just figured I am into this project at a great price point and I might as well make it the way I want. Sorry if I rambled on here, and I promise to follow up with pictures soon. Stay tuned.....
First on my list of things to change is the pipes. I was never really in love with the Commando pipes i bought from Mikes. They looked good, but they just didn't hit the mark for me. I bit the bullet earlier this week after much deliberation and bought a set of Mike's xs2 reproduction mufflers. Man are they expensive, and I sure hope the sound of these is close to the original ones Yamaha made. The new pipes are due for delivery today, and I will report back on the initial report once I get them in hand. There have been several members lately asking about these lately and maybe I can start a thread reviewing these like I did with the Commandos.
Second on my list of changes is the xsb dash. This has always been my biggest dislike of this bike. It's big and bulky and looks like it belongs on an 80's Goldwing to me. During my slow burn, while I may not have gotten much work done, I have still been picking up parts here and there for this build. Along the way I have collected all the pieces to convert the dash & gauges over to the xs2 style. The xs2 gauges are in pretty good shape, but the ignition switch I bought on ebay is questionable. Worst case I may buy a Mike's unit for $65 or so, but would much rather find a good original piece. I think these gauges will be a big improvement on the looks verses the stock units.
I am still not 100% on the CB750 bars I installed last year. They look ok but have a bit more pullback than I was hoping. I am contemplation switching out with a set of #10 tracker bars. They are very similar but with less pullback and a bit wider. The only downfall is that I would have to drill them out to run the wires internally. I really want the bars to stay clean, so internal wires are a must for me. Time will tell, as I have most of the parts readily available for this swap if I decide on that direction. Most important of all of these changes is the fact that I am keeping all the stock parts and can all be easily put back to original someday if I want. I just figured I am into this project at a great price point and I might as well make it the way I want. Sorry if I rambled on here, and I promise to follow up with pictures soon. Stay tuned.....
Not rambling at all! I am very much looking forward to seeing your bike with the changes you envision. I absolutely love the sound of my baseball bat mufflers in my XS2 , and I’m guessing you will too. I am anxious to hear your review of them. Mine look pretty good, but one has a lot of scratches running the length of it, from years of being stashed in a garage.
I hope that if you drill your handlebars and run the wires internally , that you’ll do a little write up on it. I would be interested in seeing that done.
I bought the XS2 replica handlebars ( Emgo maybe ? ) and they are definitely wide bars.
But they have the correct weighted ends in them to help dampen vibes .
Anyways , keep us posted. We want to see your new shop come together too!
Good luck with your move!
Well.....they are weighted....and that is their claim. That they are just like the factory bars. Do they dampen the vibes? Not really sure, they’re the only bars I’ve run on it. I can tell you this, all the mirrors are good for when you’re riding, is suggesting that the blurry thing behind you could possibly be a car!
Well guys, I’ve been holding pics of recently acquired stock SR500 handlebars which I was able to physically compare to a set of stock 76 XS650 handlebars.
I too have pondered handlebar choices.
Check out these SR500 bars slightly lower than XS bars.
I too have pondered handlebar choices.
Check out these SR500 bars slightly lower than XS bars.
Attachments
What the handlebar weights can do is reduce the vibration felt in the handgrips at certain engine RPMs - but not at ALL RPMs.
Each part of every bike (and car, airplane, toaster etc.) has a certain "natural" frequency at which it will resonate. Exciting (...and that IS the term engineers use) the part at or close to this specific frequency will result in much greater amplitudes of vibration and so that frequency should be avoided if at all possible.
While you cannot remove or even greatly reduce the excitation or source of the vibration (that would require changing the design of the XS650 engine - A LOT), you can change the natural frequency of a given component, like the handlebars or the footpegs, by changing their mass (weight) or their stiffness (either the material from which they are made, or the dimensions of the part).
In general, stiffer things resonate at higher frequencies and heavier things resonate at lower frequencies. Without making everyone airsick or getting into the complexities of the units of measurement, here is the general formula for "natural" or resonant frequency:
Fn = sqrt [ k / M ]
.....where Fn is the natural frequency, k is the stiffness of the part and M is its mass. "sqrt" means square root - but I don't have the capability to put mathematical symbols into these posts.
In messing with your bike and trying to make it more comfy, the goal would be to figure out what engine speed (RPM) is most common and move the natural or resonant frequency of the bars and footpegs away from that speed. So, while the bars (or pegs) from another model bike might work great on an XS650, they might also make things much worse. It just depends.....
Pete
Each part of every bike (and car, airplane, toaster etc.) has a certain "natural" frequency at which it will resonate. Exciting (...and that IS the term engineers use) the part at or close to this specific frequency will result in much greater amplitudes of vibration and so that frequency should be avoided if at all possible.
While you cannot remove or even greatly reduce the excitation or source of the vibration (that would require changing the design of the XS650 engine - A LOT), you can change the natural frequency of a given component, like the handlebars or the footpegs, by changing their mass (weight) or their stiffness (either the material from which they are made, or the dimensions of the part).
In general, stiffer things resonate at higher frequencies and heavier things resonate at lower frequencies. Without making everyone airsick or getting into the complexities of the units of measurement, here is the general formula for "natural" or resonant frequency:
Fn = sqrt [ k / M ]
.....where Fn is the natural frequency, k is the stiffness of the part and M is its mass. "sqrt" means square root - but I don't have the capability to put mathematical symbols into these posts.
In messing with your bike and trying to make it more comfy, the goal would be to figure out what engine speed (RPM) is most common and move the natural or resonant frequency of the bars and footpegs away from that speed. So, while the bars (or pegs) from another model bike might work great on an XS650, they might also make things much worse. It just depends.....
Pete
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The mufflers were just delivered and these bad boys feel very solid. They weigh in at about 8lbs each and definitely feel like a heavier gauge steel than the Emgo Commando's. The chrome is very nice too. Thorough inspection reveals that these are a straight core louvered baffle with an end plate with a small hole, roughly 1/4" that could easily be drilled bigger for more sound if desired. For now these will go into my parts stash pile until the move is completed and my new workshop is operational.
Also forgot to add that the only markings on it is "xs650-14721". I tried to cross reference the numbers but it all only came back to Mike's. There is a sticker on the box stating it was made in Taiwan. Was hoping to get a clue of the manufacturer so others could possibly source them for cheaper like we concluded with the Commando's, but no dice.
I think Mike's, in conjunction with Heiden Tuning probably, contracted to have those mufflers made special for them. The original Commandos were like that. Heiden designed them, Mike's jumped on the bandwagon and sold them. Too bad they stopped making them, they were a great muffler. The EMGO copy not so much. I'll never buy that one and am searching for something else. I really wish the Chinese would copy and clone the original Conti mufflers, heck, they copy everything else. To me, that's one of the best looking and sounding mufflers on the planet.
5twins I remember you helped identify a pair of BMW airhead after market mufflers I had a couple years ago.
Now those were solid and shaped very much like 75XS mufflers. Very small adaptable brackets. Correct diameters. That pair did go to a BMW owner.
Perhaps those were a reasonable XS option ?
Now those were solid and shaped very much like 75XS mufflers. Very small adaptable brackets. Correct diameters. That pair did go to a BMW owner.
Perhaps those were a reasonable XS option ?
