First Attempt at a Build

Im picking up my frame tomorrow and am trying to work through what my next step would be. The plan right now is going to be to put the front end back on and get the rear wheel on as well.

It came with a rear mag wheel which I don't really like, so I got what I thought was an xs650 wheel. I did some searching on here and see lots of reference to 16 and 18 inch wheels with varying numbers of spokes. What I have measures 17 inches from edge of the rim, over the center, to the other edge, with 48 spokes. Im guessing I got bamboozled and this isn't an xs650 wheel?
 
48 spokes, it IS an 82-83 Heritage special (XS650) rear wheel.
Its 17inches though, haven't seen anything on here about rear wheels being 17 inches. Here's a picture.
I appreciate that rather quick response....
IMG_3637.jpg
 
Got the frame back from the welder today. Feels like its starting to come together. I was going to take the grinder to it and start
cleaning up the frame a bit but I figured I'd leave everything on it until later in case any of the tabs actually come in handy.

I have a rear spoke wheel that I'd like to use, but its pretty cruddy. Any issues with using it to make sure the sprockets align before getting it relaced? I assume that since the hub wouldn't change at all after being relaced it should be okay to check alignment before relacing it.
Hardtail.jpg
Weld 2.jpg


Weld.jpg
Weld 3.jpg
 
I have a rear spoke wheel that I'd like to use, but its pretty cruddy. Any issues with using it to make sure the sprockets align before getting it relaced? I assume that since the hub wouldn't change at all after being relaced it should be okay to check alignment before relacing it.
Yep, you can install the brake plate and use the wheel to set the alignment and make spacers. The alignment shouldn't change after re-lacing.
 
Got the frame back from the welder today. Feels like its starting to come together. I was going to take the grinder to it and start
cleaning up the frame a bit but I figured I'd leave everything on it until later in case any of the tabs actually come in handy.

I have a rear spoke wheel that I'd like to use, but its pretty cruddy. Any issues with using it to make sure the sprockets align before getting it relaced? I assume that since the hub wouldn't change at all after being relaced it should be okay to check alignment before relacing it.
View attachment 229088View attachment 229090

View attachment 229089View attachment 229091
Do you want to relace it your self?
 
Got the frame back from the welder today. Feels like its starting to come together. I was going to take the grinder to it and start
cleaning up the frame a bit but I figured I'd leave everything on it until later in case any of the tabs actually come in handy.

I have a rear spoke wheel that I'd like to use, but its pretty cruddy. Any issues with using it to make sure the sprockets align before getting it relaced? I assume that since the hub wouldn't change at all after being relaced it should be okay to check alignment before relacing it.
View attachment 229088View attachment 229090

View attachment 229089View attachment 229091
Do you want to relace it
 
I would like to, just as a matter of saving some money. But, it seems pretty difficult. I was going to call Buchanans on Monday to see what it would cost.
It seems difficult to me too, but if you reduce the task by 1/4s it is less complicated. With 36 spokes each side has 18, 9 in(inside of the hub flange) and 9 out. Get a good picture of the valve stem hole pattern and note that the spokes on either side are ins. Also, your bare hub will have tell tale marks left by the spokes showing which direction the spokes were laid out. See the divots at 8 o'clock on this front hub (lower pic). My bare rear hub has similar tooling marks at the flange (upper pic).
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I’m replacing the bearing in my rear wheel before sending it to buchannan’s and cannot figure out how it goes back together. Here’s where I’m at. On the sprocket side: I pressed the spacer #19 into the bearing (looks like it’s referred to as the top hat spacer) and got it back into the hub with the seal. Alls good up to this point. I put the longer spacer #7 in from the brake side, and then put the bearing in, but there is maybe about a 1/4 inch gap now between the long spacer and the bearing. I think the bearing is seated all the way and I don’t want to go nuts bashing it anymore. Any suggestions? I was worked off this diagram and it doesn’t look like I’m missing anything…
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#7 should be "just snug" between the bearings. There should not be a gap.

Only thing I can think of is that one bearing hasn't seated yet.
I'd remove the seal. With an appropriate drift (a large socket works) you can hear a change in tone when the bearing seats. Goes from thuds to a more of a ring tone.
Were you meticulous in cleaning the bearing bores and seating surfaces in the hub?
 
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Well fellas I’m having another issue…
I’m trying to get the spacing of my rear wheel taken care of before I send it out to Buchanan’s. I got my axel adjusters taken care of with 3/4” washer on the inside and outside of the axle plates. The adjusters center nicely in the dimple on the plates. All is good so far.

When I go to put the wheel (drum brake/spoked) on I don’t have the clearance to put the brake side spacer in. I saw some other posts on here about spreading the hardtail so the spacer would fit but would like to avoid that if possible.

With the wheel installed, minus the brake side spacer, and with the wheel pushed all the way to the drive side, I have good sprocket alignment. I’m just left with the space on the brake side. So, can I just make a spacer to take up this space? I was thinking of stacking washers in there until I found the right size then maybe cut and drill some bar stock?

I know pictures help sometimes so here’s a couple…
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