Ok. So I read through almost all of those links. I had read a few of them multiple times before I even bought this bike. The PO rode it over to my place, since I didnt yet have my MC License, so it wasn’t like it was a barn find. And until I tried running down the interstate, I had no reason at all to think it had any issues. I am buying a compression tester today, JUST because it is on the list. And a timing light. Those are two tools I don’t own and they’re going to cost me around 75.00. So my problem very well could be that the timing is off, or that there is some issue with the advance. But everything else on the “new to you” list I have done- Changed the oil, both filters, (the sump WAS blown; no fuel smell, no plastic cam guide chunks at all, a few metal shavings, but the starter grinds and only engages half the time so I figure it’s that. I still have the starter and gear train I took off my chopper, so that’s a project for next winter). Replaced the tires, cables, rebuilt the front brake, I have now inspected the carb boots and done the Carb slide test. Again, I don’t have a timing light, and I don’t know points, so I have done everything in my power that I can do so far. As far as I am concerned, most of the potential issues causing my problem, and most of the troubleshootimg work I have ahead of me pertain to the mechanical ignition/advance system. I got tired of re-reading through all of the posts and threads to collect all of the quotes I wanted to slap up in this post, but the screenshots above and the quotes I DID paste here should say enough. I’m sorry if I offend anyone but after reading all these posts, I am of the opinion: Fuck points and mechanical advance. Almost half the things on my “list” to check/clean/calibrate/possibly replace are part of these systems. Two coils, the points themselves, condenser, etc. I would need to buy a dwell meter. The more I read and learned through posts about timing and ignition, the more benefits I saw to a modern, simplified system like Pamco. Other than the fact that it’s already on the bike, I don’t really see any benefits to sticking with the old stuff. Hell, Yamaha stopped putting points and mech advance in these bikes for the last 5 years of their production. Why? Because they moved on to something better/more reliable. Why should I torture myself with this outdated Crap? I’m going with my original plan and buying a Pamco with e-advance. I’ll have a new coil with a hotter spark and won’t have to worry about oil leaks messing with my points, checking advance weights/springs, burnt points, adjusting and syncing, etc. What a pointless pain in the ass. Lol no pun intended. Ironic actually. So- I’ll check back in with everyone after I get my carbs back from Rick. My seal and gasket kits are due to be here by the weekend, as will the timing light and compression gauge I’m ordering. I will replace the seals, install the fresh pretty carbs, and set the timing after I’ve properly set the cam chain tension and valve clearances. That will be most everything on the list. If it still doesn’t run right after that, then it probably is the advance or points, or some component of that overly complicated setup, and I’ll pull that junk off and buy a Pamco immediately.
The main benefit is not having to adjust timing and points all the time. The 650 points system works but not as well as some of the systems on other old bikes I have. Those others don't require nearly as much maintenance as the 650 did. You will also get the benefit of a stronger spark because of the new stronger coil you'll be running.
I love my pamco starts first kick everytime.
I swap em to Pamco (3 so far, 2 with e-advance) I like Accel 140403 coils.
Like 5 twins says points take some fiddling.
Watch the points, if one or both make bright sparks you have bad condenser(s)
Mine was a tci,now that I,m running the Pamco the bike fires up easier(lower voltage needed to start)and the bike runs stronger than ever.I highly recommend the set it and forget it Pamco system.
You are following the very basic guidelines for determining TDC on a motor, any motor, but you needn't do that on your XS if you just learn what the factory marks mean. Granted, not all factory shop manual stuff is right, but this basic stuff is. If you really want to worry about something, concern yourself more with matching the points gap on each set of points to one another, and then matching the idle timing fire point on each cylinder. This is quite the chore, and quite the hair pulling experience.
But it can be done. You need good tools though. You need a timing light and you ABSOLUTELY need a dwell meter. If you elect to live and SUFFER with the factory dual points system, you need a dwell meter to set the points accurately. I know, others will argue and disagree with me. I've encountered this on other sites for other bikes that use points. For as knowledgeable as they think they are, they just don't fully understand the workings of a points type ignition. Or more correctly, they don't understand how used, pitted points can't be gapped with a feeler gauge any more.
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WHY BOTHER WITH POINTS?!
(any ignition)
