Flasher relay dilemma

Superdriver

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I have a 1978 xs650 SE. The flasher relay box I have has as you look straight on to the front, a Brown main power wire going into the top receptacle, A Brown with white stripe wire going into the left side that I believe takes the power to the handlebar switch, and a Yellow with Green stripe wire going into the right side which I believe is for power to go to the flasher cancelling unit. The issue is that every picture of the wiring diagram for this model shows a Brown with White stripe going into the top, A Yellow with Green stripe going into the left side and a Black wire going into the right side. Is my relay box wired wrong or is the diagram incorrect. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks. Bill
 

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I've seen several schematics that do show a black wire (ground), but I think yours is wired correctly (and you have the connections correct too). I've run 2 terminal flashers with just the brown & br/wh .

Does yours work?
Hi. Thanks for the clarification. I am also running a two terminal flasher right now. It does not appear to be working properly at all right now. It is a part of a bigger problem that I am trying to solve right now. The turn signals have stopped working and I am tracing the route the power takes to find and fix the problem. I know for sure that there is power in the Brown wire to the flasher relay but there does not appear to be power going out to the handlebar switch. I will be opening the box tomorrow and checking for problems with Brown /White wire connection and grounding and then following the wiring to the switch and through to the T/S lights if necessary. This whole issue has been a wonderful learning experience. I hope at 68 ,I can still absorb it all LOL. Take care. Bill
 
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Don't know if this is relevant but when I installed a solid state flasher in my '76 650C I had to swap positions of the brown/black wires in the plug.
At least I'm pretty sure it was the black/brown. I'd have to actually go look to remember for sure.
 
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Don't know if this is relevant but when I installed a two terminal solid state flasher in my '76 650C I had to swap positions of the brown/black wires in the plug.
At least I'm pretty sure it was the black/brown. I'd have to actually go look to remember for sure.
Thanks. It looks like you can open the back of the relay box to change the wiring around. thats great because you can get at the connections to access and fix any connection problems. take care. Bill
 
I found a couple of photos I took of the plug after I switched the wires around. And I guess it wasn't a two prong flasher after all.
Again, dunno if the wiring is the same between a C and an E model or if this is even your issue.
 

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I found a couple of photos I took of the plug after I switched the wires around. And I guess it wasn't a two prong flasher after all.
Again, dunno if the wiring is the same between a C and an E model or if this is even your issue.
It looks like you have a Brown main power wire, A Brown and White stripe wire to the Handlebar switch and a wire that looks to be Black unless it is dark Green and I cant see the difference. Mine has the Green with Yellow stripe wire to the self cancelling unit. I'm taking it apart today to check for faults. Thanks for the pictures. Take care. Bill
 
looks to be Black unless it is dark Green and I cant see the difference.
You shouldn't run into the dark green until ya get into the handlebar switch (it is possible to mistake for black.)

I know Yamaha took a ground wire to the flasher on various models - but I don't know its function other than gen. practice. Many flashers don't need ground to operate (even 3 pin): one type uses spring metal that heats/cools to make/break circuit, the other uses a "timing chip". With the low draw of LED bulbs some flashers don't see enough current to bend the spring metal or trigger the chip. Some of the LED flashers do need a ground.

Anyway, it's common to find issues with the signal circuit relating to lack of ground at the bulb, bad contact in the switch and flashers do go bad by virtue of their design
74_TX650A copy.jpg fix 2 (2).jpg
 
You shouldn't run into the dark green until ya get into the handlebar switch (it is possible to mistake for black.)

I know Yamaha took a ground wire to the flasher on various models - but I don't know its function other than gen. practice. Many flashers don't need ground to operate (even 3 pin): one type uses spring metal that heats/cools to make/break circuit, the other uses a "timing chip". With the low draw of LED bulbs some flashers don't see enough current to bend the spring metal or trigger the chip. Some of the LED flashers do need a ground.

Anyway, it's common to find issues with the signal circuit relating to lack of ground at the bulb, bad contact in the switch and flashers do go bad by virtue of their designView attachment 233614
Great Thank you very much. I have solved the turn signal problem. I took the connections for the flasher out of the box, Cleaned them and made sure the prongs fit tightly to them and then tested the flasher. The flasher and T/S lights started working immediately. I had already checked and cleaned the connections for the T/S lights and the T/S switch housing. I definitely lucked out LOL Thank you for your support with this issue. Take care. Bill
 

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I found a couple of photos I took of the plug after I switched the wires around. And I guess it wasn't a two prong flasher after all.
Again, dunno if the wiring is the same between a C and an E model or if this is even your issue.
I have solved the T/S problem. It appears to have been a problem with the connections in the box. I took them out of the box and cleaned them and tightened them to fit tightly on the flasher prongs. The flasher and T/S lights started working immediately. Thanks again for your help. take care. Bill
 

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Idk if this is going to help but I needed a new flasher bought one that I believe was electronic because I might put in LEDs it didn't work. Returned it and got less expensive flasher and it worked fine. Also I believe no new flasher will self cancel like the original.
 
Idk if this is going to help but I needed a new flasher bought one that I believe was electronic because I might put in LEDs it didn't work. Returned it and got less expensive flasher and it worked fine. Also I believe no new flasher will self cancel like the original.
good point. more expensive doesn't always mean better LOL
 
Idk if this is going to help but I needed a new flasher bought one that I believe was electronic because I might put in LEDs it didn't work. Returned it and got less expensive flasher and it worked fine. Also I believe no new flasher will self cancel like the original.
Good point. The reason I was changing my flasher in the first place was because I switched everything over to LED when I restored my bike.
 
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