The lever adjustment screw was too tight, forcing the piston to cover the vent hole. It's all in the thread. Hopefully a newbie will read the whole thread and know what's going on.
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Front brake locked up. XS650SH
- Thread starter jetmechmarty
- Start date
In a nutshell, there is a freeplay adjustment mechanism at the brake lever and it was properly adjusted at ambient temp in the shade or whatever. But once exposed to the hot sun for a length of time, the metal expanded enough to use up all the freeplay in the lever and serve to slightly, constantly apply the brake such it it never would release i.e. there was still constant pressure in the brake Iine serving to constantly keep the brake pads applied against the disc. That generated heat in turn exacerbated the condition.
Once the lever was removed and the constant pressure in turn removed, the brake released.
Once the lever was removed and the constant pressure in turn removed, the brake released.
I have a small amount of freeplay in both of my levers, but I never thought of checking them once hot. I'll have to do that. But I've never had a brake issue like yours so maybe there's enough freeplay in them.
This is the first time this has happened to me. Also, this is an 11 mm master cylinder from a different Yamaha. It doesn’t have the plastic reservoir. I acquired it upon your recommendation and I like the way it works.
Yes, I have an 11mm on one bike, a 1/2" (same style or type) on the other. I have another 11mm I may eventually swap on in place of the 1/2". The 1/2" is an improvement over the original 14mm, but not as much as the 11mm.
Some input . It can also happen if the brake piston is rusted. not moving as it should
( Aee hum don't ask how i know it )
I had the Modus Operandi That changing fluid is BS just a trick to sell more fluid
I am not gonna fall for that. Find another sucker.
Payed the price at the end learning it the hard way.
And I was once looking at a Honda Boldor to perhaps buy it also had a front brake that had problems in the Front
Not releasing
When it don't release heat is generated and I believe can worsen the locking generate more heat and damage things
( Aee hum don't ask how i know it )
I had the Modus Operandi That changing fluid is BS just a trick to sell more fluid
I am not gonna fall for that. Find another sucker.
Payed the price at the end learning it the hard way.
And I was once looking at a Honda Boldor to perhaps buy it also had a front brake that had problems in the Front
Not releasing
When it don't release heat is generated and I believe can worsen the locking generate more heat and damage things
I ruined the rotor. It took a couple of heat cycles, but it’s no good. In light braking it feels like the brake is going on and off as the wheel rotates. Hot spots I guess.
I ordered some new SBS ceramic pads. I had some rotors resurfaced at that place in Michigan a few years ago. The fix is in.
I ordered some new SBS ceramic pads. I had some rotors resurfaced at that place in Michigan a few years ago. The fix is in.
Lucky you didn't accidentally lock up the wheel?
Tom @ Truedisk in Canton MI is my go-to for disc machining as well
Yeah. He did mine.
My brake did not survive this incident. A couple more heat cycles and the rotor is roached. On slow gradual stops the forks are bouncing up and down. No bueno.
I have new SBS pads and a rotor resurfaced by that fellow in Michigan.
I have new SBS pads and a rotor resurfaced by that fellow in Michigan.
Looks great...just sent my rotor to him.
I "resurface" them myself using a Roloc type pad in a 4.5" grinder (to remove the grooving), then finish with a Flex-Hone tool for rotors to give them the nice, textured finish. I was a little concerned at first that I might take too much material off in spots, creating low and high spots, and resulting in a brake that "pulsed" when applied, but so far, they've all come out good.
The Roloc disc also nicely de-burrs all the holes I drilled in the disc. I used to do them by hand individually, a daunting task to say the least, lol.
The Roloc disc also nicely de-burrs all the holes I drilled in the disc. I used to do them by hand individually, a daunting task to say the least, lol.
Will resurfacing fix my rotor or does it go to the recycler? It is not warped.
The pads looked like they were trying to melt!
The pads looked like they were trying to melt!
I don't know but it's worth a try I guess. Would you send it out or try the DIY thing like I do? You can buy the tools for probably $50 or less, what's it cost to send it to that guy?
It was very reasonable. BUT…. I had a friend visiting who lived near him outside Detroit. He carried the rotors and then carried them back, so no shipping. That probably saved me over half of the cost.
Good to go. As an AMT it’s hard to look at those bolts without safety wire or lock tabs. They are torqued with blue Locktite.
