Front MC question

[arcticXS]

I like originality but when it comes to brakes I use the thing best available.
IMHO that ain't rubber brake lines.

Nor is it the too large master cylinders. On my RD350, that has the same 2x48 mm piston caliper as the 72-76 XS/ TX models, a 13 mm Brembo master cylinder improved brake effort and control a significant amount (The RD MC was 5/8")

 

[Raymond]

I have read that in other posts and it’s a consideration. If I go with the one piece line what length should I order?

Depends on your handlebar. IIRC correctly, the one piece line on Miss November - Euro bars - is 90cm. Check length you need with a bit of string?

 

[Wingedwheel]

It’s stock and I suppose I can get off my ass and pull out a tape measure……
(mz July)

 

[Wingedwheel]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/144899829405?_trkparms=amclksrc=ITM&aid=1110006&algo=HOMESPLICE.SIM&ao=1&asc=20201210111314&meid=5c32ca4fc71a4a778f60bdfd4272fa27&pid=101195&rk=3&rkt=12&sd=284463194597&itm=144899829405&pmt=1&noa=0&pg=2047675&algv=SimplAMLv11WebTrimmedV3MskuWithLambda85KnnRecallV1V4V6ItemNrtInQueryAndCassiniVisualRankerAndBertRecall&brand=Russell&_trksid=p2047675.c101195.m1851&amdata=cksum:1448998294055c32ca4fc71a4a778f60bdfd4272fa27|enc:AQAHAAABcBEC%2B8HimpTF6XPanG8lCeF3G6jifrewDlLoKJMPz0RnJH8s%2BUBlIo2cSQSdgSGvSVvCKC6zF4X6tOnQIr392G0gldH8QjhGQ2fmdEokLVFt29UKj%2FEph29NUO0KxqhEb84gZhbKWlWfbravBJF8o5Kw4Vx7dHE8BCwNEKIpFHLLJRu4XATYHl2AiNSojTd1ZlP%2BSl44mz%2Fp67ZWBW5mm9gqZaOvnl1caDv5gLO9DU3N1%2Fmy%2Ff7qLvfuRCR%2F7C1mCjKTooKUGeuWkoj5SgPzH7OrXCmxTpg%2BQYVnBTFB%2BArkEqqbnxV6vQBx0isANutMmE4pa%2BUtOtPilOJDJgdhcT4kl69pn%2BDHfcxRpsXRlScfIqhGWZYP9%2FBJfMIrTvTtlcH%2BDKBadQdq4dh%2BkH4lgxT4Rr1IMfJJUPk23WTUmE9QKHnJZeiNxmozTq%2Fsrl%2F28oUejVR8H2zVDkta6ZQSl47Jjv8bKOvYTIau8RSQc%2BEC|ampidL_CLK|clp:2047675&epid=235670657

After much debate with myself about how I want to do this I decided instead of a one piece I’m going to do a 2piece and retain my brake switch. I bought a banjo bolt switch but the short wires( maybe 12”) makes it less the desirable to run it. I ordered two 3An adapters for the caliper and brake switch so I need two 16” 10mm banjo to 3An straight. As linked above. I feel it gives me more of a stock look which to me is something I like. As parts come in I’ll post my progress.

 

[Wingedwheel]

I ended up getting the hoses from Amazon. Same seller, lower price and delivered tomorrow. Now I’ll just be waiting on my adapter fittings lol. Oh yea and I ended up ordering a little bit longer hoses just to be sure….

 

[Wingedwheel]

Hoses showed up along with the fittings today so being very careful with the fluid I used my vac bleeder to pull the fluid downI ended up taking the switch and all lines and hoses loose because it seemed a little easier to get at everything. Pulled fluid in with the vac and then used a lever pump n dump to finish the last little bit. My lever feel was amazing! I liked how things look even if the boot is a little large. However one problem begets another and when done I wanted to check that my switch was working. Turned the key on and the brake light in the tach was flashing.WTH? No tail light or rear brake light although the light in the tach comes on when you squeeze the lever or depress the foot pedal so that’s all working. I think I may have unplugged something somewhere so tomorrow the search is on….

 

[gggGary]

That bulb in the dash is a brake lining switch not connected in anyway to the brake light circuit. was originally grounded by a switch in the rear drum by a blue/red wire. (like how the neutral light works) should be out unless that wire is grounded somewhere, OR when the starter button is pressed.
It's common to hacksaw that switch mount off the hub and get rid of the circuit.

 

[Wingedwheel]

It’s not the brake lining light it’s the actual brake light indicator light inside the tach.

 

[gggGary]

It’s not the lining indicator light but rather the brake light indicator in the tach. It would be the light just above the color key between the turn signal lights on the diagram. Yellow and blue wire.

That's the rear of the bike and is the tail brake light itself.
the wiring diagram I posted may not be right for a 76. will have to look into that.
I'm unsure of the dash arrangement...
advertised as a 76 XS650 tacho

gauges from an Australian? bike in skull's id thread.

 

[Wingedwheel]

I edited my reply Gary as I mistakenly noted that light. The diagram doesn’t list it. It’s in the second set of gauges you posted where it says “stop lamp”

 

[Wingedwheel]

You can see it as the red light.

 

[5twins]

If you switched to a LED tail light, that warning light may come on all the time. The voltage used by the LED is so low that the light checker thinks it's burned out and illuminates the dash warning light. That's what happened on my '78. I just took the dash bulb out, lol. Eventually, I removed the light checker but being behind the battery box between it and the inner plastic fender, that had to wait until I had the rear wheel off for something.

 

[Wingedwheel]

Problem is everything was working fine until I started”fiddling” around So now that the taillight doesn’t work for either the headlamp or brakes leads me to believe I pulled something loose. I’ll just have to start tracing back. At least I can reach up and get a nice firm lever feel on the front brake lol. Keeps me from getting anxious. On another note as I was rerouting and cleaning things up I found this. New lever should be here tomorrow….

 

[Raymond]

. . . as I was rerouting and cleaning things up I found this. New lever should be here tomorrow . . .

Nice catch!

 

[jpdevol]

Turned the key on and the brake light in the tach was flashing.WTH? No tail light or rear Barack light although the light in the tach comes on when you squeeze the lever or depress the foot pedal so that’s all wPeking.

Hmm...maybe it's the "light checker" dash bulb (rather than lining bulb); if power is lost to yellow brk light, does light checker unit send signal on green wire to dash

 

[Wingedwheel]

I’m also noticing from members quoting my posts I either need to improve my typing skills or turn off the spell checker lol.

 

[Wingedwheel]

Hmm...maybe it's the "light checker" dash bulb (rather than lining bulb); if power is lost to yellow brk light, does light checker unit send signal on green wire to dash

I think what it’s doing is flashing to let me know the bulb is not working. (Brake light indicator bulb). It works fine when the lever is squeezed or pedal depressed. It lights up as it’s supposed to.

 

[gggGary]

Hmm...maybe it's the "light checker" dash bulb (rather than lining bulb); if power is lost to yellow brk light, does light checker unit send signal on green wire to dash

yeah true 76 diagrams are rare but I think it was the first year with the beloved light checker.

 

[Wingedwheel]

the wiring diagram I posted may not be right for a 76. will have to look into that.
I'm unsure of the dash arrangement...

Looking at that diagram it’s different than the one I have. The light I’m referring to is the bulb on the G/W wire. On my diagram it’s red and is labeled stop light failure. Now this brings up another question. Since I have owned that bike that light would come on when I applied the brakes. Is that how it’s supposed to work?

 

[jpdevol]

The G/W wire comes from the "light checker", but IDK how it works. I know my '74 RD lights the dash bulb when brakes applied even when brake light bulb is working