Getting the ‘57 beetle back on the road in 2024

[Jim]

I bought one, towed it home, yanked the (rebuilt) motor in the backyard without a jack, sold the motor and roller separately, total time of ownership less than a week. I don't recall I ever saw it run.
The kind of shenanigan that got me through a couple years of school.

Alright... funny story time...

My CO when I was stationed at Mt Home rebuilt his Bug motor. He didn't want my help, yet he'd call me about a half dozen times a day asking questions during the rebuild. He was one of the good guys, so I didn't mind a bit. Anyway...

He drove it down to the squadron when he was done... and was quiet proud of himself... and rightly so. Anyway, every night when he parked it at work, I'd lean under the engine and pour a little oil out on the ground, directly under the engine and tailing out into the open. About drove him crazy trying to find his leak. . After 5 or 6 days of it I finally told him what I was doing. I gotta say, was slightly concerned at that point about how he'd react (shoulda thought about that before I did it, eh? ). Thankfully he took it in the spirit intended... as a childish prank.

But the look on his face was priceless.

 

[bosco659]

Gittin’ there. I was told the blue wires would give me 5 hp.. Truth be told when I ordered the wires, these NGK blue wires were all that were available. Now I can get black but I’ll leave these on. Interesting they were numbered incorrectly.

I put a timing mark on the pulley. There aren’t any other than a notch for TDC. Timing is 7.5 degrees btdc. I measured 7/16” to the right of the factory notch and put my timing mark on with a paint pen. I’ve read that static setting of the timing is good enough. I’ll do that later today..

I need to find these fittings to make one missing fuel line. Haven’t found a source yet. Ideas? 6mm line, fitying is 12 x 1.50. I can get the fuel line no problem snd ferrules on Amazon. I think so far this is the only bit I can’t find.

 

[TX650A Van Islander]

You must be so stoked to be so close!

Re these heating systems I remember in January 1990 driving my '65 Corvait from Kingston to Toronto in January (an anomaly as it was not a winter vehicle but I had to move it at the time). Over a hundred miles looking through a peephole in the windshield. So cold my dog threw up on the rubber mat floor and it partially froze. Good times - not! Fun memory now but shit show then.

This beetle unveiling is so exciting!

 

[Jim]

I’ve read that static setting of the timing is good enough. I’ll do that later today..

You still want to put a light on it after it's running to check the advance.

 

[Wagner73]

I put a timing mark on the pulley. There aren’t any other than a notch for TDC. Timing is 7.5 degrees btdc. I measured 7/16” to the right of the factory notch and put my timing mark on with a paint pen. I’ve read that static setting of the timing is good enough. I’ll do that later today..

Back in the day there were a number of nice options available to solve this... different variations on machined aluminum pulleys fully marked with TDC and =/> 30° each way. Don't know if that kind of accessory part is still available today?

Edit - Apparently, yes...

https://www.jbugs.com/product/33-10...TKbHyGPUqg5MqXkMxwswxJQz7GVXGh3BoCMNMQAvD_BwE

 

[bosco659]

Dug the muffler and heater boxes out of storage. Lucky for me they are in pretty good condition other than cosmetics. I test fit the muffler and as seen in one pic there’s a rather large gap I need to deal with. I was going to hear and bend the manifold but came up with a less intrusive fix.

I removed the chrome exhaust pipes (surprised they came out) with heat, banging and twisting. They too are salvageable.

Too bad for me, the gaskets and clamps fit the exhaust are on back order until June. A dealer in Cali has them but won’t ship up here. I’ve got a plan in the works though to expedite delivery.

Small detail but grommet in rear tin for the fuel line and stand off brackets for the spark plug wire tube from the intake.

I still can’t find the line from the fuel pump to the carb. I tried sourcing the parts today but came to the realization I’ll have to bend over and buy a ready made one.

Air cleaner removed and washed. It’s an old school oil bath filter assembly. It looked better dirty so I think I’ll paint it. I’ll mask off the original decal though.

Custom extended hood latch pin works well but is a bit long and needs to be trimmed.

The next few days or more will be spent on cleaning up the exhaust system and heater boxes. I plan on rebuilding the muffler with a can of spray paint!

I cleaned up one exhaust pipe. Looks good enough for recycling!

One stale air heater box test fitted. Need gaskets, clamps and the engine assembly is complete.

 

[Downeaster]

 

[grouchie77]

Mufflers? We don't need no stinkin' mufflers!

 

[bosco659]

The exhaust system. Muffler in the foreground and stale air heater boxes on the blue bin.

 

[Jim]

Reminds me..... make sure you get a carbon monoxide detector.

 

[bosco659]

Reminds me..... make sure you get a carbon monoxide detector.

Yes I’ll be careful about this. With the exhaust components in decent shape and well sealed I should be pretty safe. I’m also thinking 95% of driving will be windows down and heater air flow shut off.

I was also thinking I should add a small voltmeter to the car ti keep an eyes on the generator (I’ve already added new brushes and bearings).

I’m starting to look at options for re-skinning the interior door panels. Not a real high priority but needs to be done eventually.

 

[Jim]

I was also thinking I should add a small voltmeter to the car ti keep an eyes on the generator

I like this type of voltmeter. It's small enough to fit the hole for a cigarette lighter and has a touch button to turn it off if it distracts you. I've got one on my SG, truck and van. The one in my F150 (daily driver) has been there for about 5 yrs without any problems. I don't care who ya are, that's pretty good for Chinesium electrics.

 

[jetmechmarty]

How about a cylinder head temperature gauge? It will quickly report a broken fan belt.

 

[Wagner73]

How about a cylinder head temperature gauge? It will quickly report a broken fan belt.

The way the VW flat four is architected, you would probably notice the fan belt is busted by the voltmeter too, as the generator stops turning.

 

[bosco659]

I like this type of voltmeter. It's small enough to fit the hole for a cigarette lighter and has a touch button to turn it off if it distracts you. I've got one on my SG, truck and van. The one in my F150 (daily driver) has been there for about 5 yrs without any problems. I don't care who ya are, that's pretty good for Chinesium electrics.


View attachment 367442

View attachment 367444

View attachment 367443

I like it but need one that reads as low as 4to 5 volts?

 

[AUTOMAN]

I like it but need one that reads as low as 4to 5 volts?

Drop out at 7vdc for this type. Needs a 7vdc supply to work.

 

[Jim]

I like it but need one that reads as low as 4to 5 volts?

https://www.amazon.com/Linkstyle-Ba...=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWxfdGhlbWF0aWM&th=1

 

[AUTOMAN]

https://www.amazon.com/Linkstyle-Ba...=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWxfdGhlbWF0aWM&th=1

View attachment 367492

I have that on my Yamaha G-1 1978
Tested down to 7vdc, then dim and random indicated voltages.

Made in multiple designs and factories so this may work.

 

[bosco659]

Well I’ve run into a stumbling block. I’m having trouble finding a generator belt for the car. All specs say the belt is 10mm x 900mm and that’s just too short. I’m thinking the proper length is 915mm. Try to find one of those! From what I’ve found, many advertise that size as being available but in fact it’s 11mm + wide which is too wide for the bottom pulley. They are available across the pond but hard to get here. The Continental belt code is AVX10X915. I’ll try and industrial supply place on Monday. Amazon claims to sell one but it’s several weeks to a month deliver plus it’s an unknown Chinesium brand.

See last image. $hitty vendor says this belt fits!

Belt shown with pulley halves at max spacing. Ideally the belt should run near the top 75% of the pulley’s diameter.

 

[kiwi]

This thread is great, good work Bosco, and has bought back a lot of memories for me. Used to work as a mechanic at a gas station in a residential area, back in the late 60s early 70s. Lots of VWs came in for work, brakes, engines, wiring or tune up, what ever. But it was just a job, in and out they went. One of them was a truck body style, or pickup as we called them. I did an engine, trans, brakes and wires eaten by rats, took me weeks. At the end, finally ready to go for a test drive, and put it in gear to drive out of the workshop, but went backwards instead. Had 4 gears in reverse. What the hell, got it Sused and sorted. Those who know will know what I did wrong. I also owned and rebuilt 2 bugs of my own, a 61 and a 51 small back window. Then a 69 van I drive around Europe in for a couple of months, before the engine blew on the highway, then was stolen, never to be seen again. I was never into picture taking, no camera, and my history is just in the head. Thanks again for this great thread.