Well I thought I had the definitive answer but after doing a bit more digging I find there has been a ton of discussion about this in other groups, not necessarily VW related but more Solex carb guys.
-
Enjoy XS650.com? Consider making a donation to help support the site.
XS650.com receives a small share of sales from some links on this page, but direct donations have a much greater impact on keeping this site going.
Getting the ‘57 beetle back on the road in 2024
- Thread starter bosco659
- Start date
That screw has had a hard life. I just noticed somebody had squished the threads. Wonder if they did that intentionally to keep it from wandering out f tge bore. I'll guess I’ll never know.
I wonder if my watchmaker friend can clean up the taper on the old screw? Or if I find it needs a hole - have him drill holes in the new screw.
I wonder if my watchmaker friend can clean up the taper on the old screw? Or if I find it needs a hole - have him drill holes in the new screw.
Here’s what I found:
Also read in another discussion, the at idle the hole introduces air to lean the mixture. As the throttle is opened it allows additional fuel to be drawn into the carb throat. Not my explanation - it’s just what I read.
Also read in another discussion, the at idle the hole introduces air to lean the mixture. As the throttle is opened it allows additional fuel to be drawn into the carb throat. Not my explanation - it’s just what I read.
Drivers side floor pan painted. I still need to put on a second coat before I go to bed. In the process of finally adjusting my brake pedal, the clutch cable fell off inside the tunnel. 
Lots of cursing and close to 3 hours later got it all hooked up again.
Lots of cursing and close to 3 hours later got it all hooked up again.
I need to do a few more things to “tune up” the motor. I’d like to use my dwell/tach meter. I assume this meter was meant to be used for 12V systems. Can anyone tell me if I can use it on my 6V beetle? If necessary I can hook the meter up to a 12V battery.
There are 5 wires. According to the back panel the green will go to the coil, the black to ground and the red to battery. Are the other two (attached) red/black wires for testing resistance and for this I assume I need to install a couple of AA batteries. Or are these batteries needed for all meter functions.
Lmk what you know. Thx.
There are 5 wires. According to the back panel the green will go to the coil, the black to ground and the red to battery. Are the other two (attached) red/black wires for testing resistance and for this I assume I need to install a couple of AA batteries. Or are these batteries needed for all meter functions.
Lmk what you know. Thx.
My dwell tach went by the wayside about the time points did the same on most engines i.e. late '70's / 1980. That said, even at the time, I only found it useful on distributors that had externally-adjustable points e.g. Accel, etc. so you could dial-in while running. Otherwise, just a keen feeler gauge adjustment on a set of conventional single points worked fine. The dwell could be used as a secondary check but IMHO, not needed nor much value there i.e. start-check-stop-tweak-start-check ad infinitum.
Edit: PS - It seems that there are quite a few electronic ignition options for not too much money that would provide arguably better performance and eliminate dwell angle from the equation.
Last edited:
buried where you can't see it electronic points replacement. if you can find a set up for 6 volt.
Yes. I might have to recant my testimony...there ARE a ton of options, but - even though they say they are expressly for a '57 Bug - they go on to specify 12V. ??
buried where you can't see it electronic points replacement. if you can find a set up for 6 volt.
Also, all of the distributor replacement solutions I have seen are centrifugal advance only. Another element that recommends keeping the existing distributor to retain vacuum advance. Maybe a 6V electronic points-replacer module is unobtanium?
Edit: Maybe...
https://pertronixbrands.com/product...or-for-bosch-009-4-cyl-6-volt-negative-ground
This says "Bosch 009" which I think is centrifugal only, not sure if it's compatible with vacuum advance stocker?
Last edited:
Just set gap at spec. then rotate cap for final timing.
Dwell is just charge time on coil, not important at 4000RPM.
Gap is important for arching avoidance.
Timing is most important.
You cannot get dwell and gap correctly together since dizzy cam lift and point ratio are not new/in spec.
Dwell is just charge time on coil, not important at 4000RPM.
Gap is important for arching avoidance.
Timing is most important.
You cannot get dwell and gap correctly together since dizzy cam lift and point ratio are not new/in spec.
With 4 bumps on the points cam on 4k max? motor , dwell isn't critical, a high revving V8 yeah it matters.
Yes the 009 is centrifugal only and flint what I have read it isn’t a good replacement for the stock distributor. The 019 is supposed to be a better performer. Electronic would be nice but not in the budget right now, besides I’ve tried to keep it as stock as possible.
Completely understand. This is just one of a few areas that IMO the newer mousetrap is the better mousetrap.
I will be attending several local VW meets in the next few months. I’ll keep my eyes open for a deal or intel on what’s available! Thx.
Point triggered GM HEI comes to mind.
Points last for ever, but you still must chase point cam wear with the dizzy cap twist to get timing back.
I would love to try to do a VW dizzy with reluctor from a Iron Duke or some other 4 banger.
Did one on a John Deere tractor 1946 or so.
I did another on my '73 vette since I wanted to keep the mechanical tach drive and cast iron distributor base.
My H1 runs 3.
Looked back in my messages to local vendors and I can get a fancy electronic distributor that you can adjust using your phone / Bluetooth for a measly $785! I guess I’ll be adjusting my points for a while. lol
These are the factory floor mats. I believe they’re originals. 3/4 are in really nice shape. The drivers mat has a hole worn at the heel position. I’ll figure out a way to patch that. The mats attach to the floor pans by stretching the mount holes over the studs on the pan. I’ve found after 69 years the stretch is gone. I could try to rejuvenate the rubber at the holes but think a better way might be to put a small slit at the holes allowing placement over the studs.
The last piece of oxidized trim got cleaned up. Surprisingly easy with a bit of grey Scotchbrite pad. I like the look but thought afterwards maybe I could have left them looking nasty to match the rest of the car. Too late now.
Got the clutch adjusted (I think); hose clamp on fuel filter; vacuumed heater channel just in case someone was living in there; reattached rubber on tunnel and cleaned a d painted the bad spots. Getting close…..
The last piece of oxidized trim got cleaned up. Surprisingly easy with a bit of grey Scotchbrite pad. I like the look but thought afterwards maybe I could have left them looking nasty to match the rest of the car. Too late now.
Got the clutch adjusted (I think); hose clamp on fuel filter; vacuumed heater channel just in case someone was living in there; reattached rubber on tunnel and cleaned a d painted the bad spots. Getting close…..
Getting it out for a test drive today…..
https://www.facebook.com/share/r/1ECD6bbqfz/?mibextid=wwXIfr
https://www.facebook.com/share/r/1ECD6bbqfz/?mibextid=wwXIfr
Wow, only $785
! And of course you would need an app on your phone (hate that!). I was hoping for a simple module to replace the points within the stock cast iron, vacuum advance distributor for like $100, but maybe that doesn't exist. On the other hand, perhaps the peeps at the local meets will have ideas...best of luck!
Looks like there might be a bolt in solution but it’s unclear whether it will only work with mechanical advance only?Wow, only $785
A bit more cosmetic work this evening. Painted the yellowish overspray on the tunnel.. Don’t know who dunnit but it looked bad enough for me to do a quick coverup. I’ll try to do the drivers side tomorrow and that’s about it for the interior other than the door panels.
If this is the case and it is truly a bolt-in solution i.e mounts exactly how/where the points mounted, then there should be really no reason it would not function with both centrifugal and vacuum advance...both systems act to move the points plate, just in different ways.
Last edited:
