Getting the ‘57 beetle back on the road in 2024

[gggGary]

I've also seen the NO stainless advisory. Since the anode is the COLLECTOR here I'm thinking problems will be minor, haven't seen anyone screaming about derusting chrome parts. Yet the cathode is where the molecules are REMOVED.
I've done "some" electrolysis. some tips?
Don't let line of sight fool you; cloth, various plastic meshes are completely transparent to the action. the action is very much cathode/anode distance sensitive. so an anode grid or "curtain" that surrounds the part will greatly improve uniformity of action. Fairly flat parts, a sandwich
Bare steel plate anode on the bottom, a plastic mesh (think a sheet of "scotch Bright" type material) separator, the part, a second section/plate anode, will derust both sides of the flat part. for gas tanks I place HEAVY bare wire inserted inside tubular webbing bent to fit in the tank and extend toward the bottom/ rear of the tank.
Two legs, one on each side of the tunnel would be ideal. The rust will end up trapped inside the webbing and come out when you remove the anode!
Some of my electrolysis experiments and usual suspects :^0 weighing in.
https://www.xs650.com/threads/battery-box-rust-whats-best-way-to-deal-with-it.43213/

 

[atom4488]

I've also seen the NO stainless advisory. Since the anode is the COLLECTOR here I'm thinking problems will by minor haven't seen anyone screaming about derusting chrome parts. Yet the cathode is where the molecules are REMOVED.
I've done "some" electrolysis. some tips?
Don't let line of sight fool you; cloth various plasitc meshes are completely transparent to the action. the action is very much cathode/anode distance sensitive. so an anode grid or "curtain" that surrounds the part will greatly improve uniformity of action. Fairly flat parts, a sandwich
Bare steel plate anode on the bottom a plastic mesh (think a sheet of "scotch Bright" type material) the part a second section of anode will derust both sides of the flat part. for gas tanks I place HEAVY bare wire inserted inside tubular webbing bent to fit in the tank and extend toward the bottom/ rear of the tank.
Two legs on on each side of the tunnel would be ideal. The rust will end up trapped inside the webbing and come out when you remove the anode!
Some of my electrolysis experiments and usual suspects :^0 weighing in.
https://www.xs650.com/threads/battery-box-rust-whats-best-way-to-deal-with-it.43213/

The Internet says:

Can you use electrolysis to remove rust from Chrome?

Don't put any plated tools into an electrolysis tank, chrome or otherwise. B: it will create a hazardous situation in your electrolyte. heavy metals and Hexavalent chromium. Same with Stainless, keep it out of the tank.

 

[bosco659]

Took apart the RR brake assembly. Good news:
- drum is oily but in good shape
- parking brake cable is free
- wheel cylinder came apart and could be rebuilt if I find seals
- backing plate is in nicer shape than the LHS most likely from its oil bath
- axle seal carrier came off relative easily
Bad news:
- nothing really. I didn’t run into anything I wasn’t expecting.

Other good news, my parts order arrived. This should allow me to button up the rear brakes, both sides (Need to order axle seals). Still need to degrease and do some rust removal, then paint (some bits) before assembly. The RHS backing plate is soaking in Varsol for the night, then I’ll wash it with some citrus cleaner, then do the electrolysis thing on it, or Evaporust.

The way this is going I may have it on the road by this Christmas @Jim lol. . Maybe next Christmas.

 

[Vincenthdfan]

I think you're making great progress, steady little bites at a time...

 

[Grimly]

I peeled off the RHS rear drum and found it had a big axle seal failure. You would cringe if you saw how I attached my puller to the drum. More work and $. lol. Because it had so much oil on it, the drum wasn’t rusted as bad as the LHS. Will disassemble the shoes and hardware tomorrow. A wee bit each day.

View attachment 255782

That's making me shudder with the recollection of the state of the rear brakes on my Type 3 I find it was, according to Wiki. The VW Variant estate / station wagon. Great car, but had suffered a lot from previous neglect and getting the rear drums off was a nightmare.
One of these...

 

[bosco659]

Just for something to do, I removed the heaviest rust off of these two pieces with a wire brush (by hand). Going to dunk them in Evaporust for a day or more to see how clean I can get them. The same pieces from the other side will get the electrolysis treatment. I’ll post pics when these ones come out.

 

[Vincenthdfan]

That evaporust is good stuff...it needs to be at least room temp to work well though. Warmer the better honestly.

 

[bosco659]

That evaporust is good stuff...it needs to be at least room temp to work well though. Warmer the better honestly.

Doing that indoors, so 70F

 

[atom4488]

Here's a thread that is a worthwhile read on electrolysis:
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum...-know-about-electrolytic-rust-removal.154196/

 

[atom4488]

Just for something to do, I removed the heaviest rust off of these two pieces with a wire brush (by hand). Going to dunk them in Evaporust for a day or more to see how clean I can get them. The same pieces from the other side will get the electrolysis treatment. I’ll post pics when these ones come out.

looking forward to that!

 

[bosco659]

So my next concern will be how to paint some of these bits when it’s cold outside and I dont want overspray on everything in the garage. I found this table top spray shelter that may do me well for small parts. Add a 20x20 air filter and small fan and I should be all set. When not needed, I can fold it up and put it away. Economical too. Only about $55-$60 for the tent. I can wait until the spring to paint the bigger pieces if needed.

 

[bosco659]

Here's a thread that is a worthwhile read on electrolysis:
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum...-know-about-electrolytic-rust-removal.154196/

A good read (quick look). I see this process may become another rabbit hole for me. lol. Graphite rod? I started looking on line. but then I thought to myself, after the beetle is done, I will rarely use this again so I’m best to do it on the cheap. Thanks for the link, lots of good info there.

 

[atom4488]

Just for something to do, I removed the heaviest rust off of these two pieces with a wire brush (by hand). Going to dunk them in Evaporust for a day or more to see how clean I can get them. The same pieces from the other side will get the electrolysis treatment. I’ll post pics when these ones come out.

looking forward to that!

 

[Vincenthdfan]

So my next concern will be how to paint some of these bits when it’s cold outside and I dont want overspray on everything in the garage. I found this table top spray shelter that may do me well for small parts. Add a 20x20 air filter and small fan and I should be all set. When not needed, I can fold it up and put it away. Economical too. Only about $55-$60 for the tent. I can wait until the spring to paint the bigger pieces if needed.

Hmmm....got my wheels turnin now. I always have stuff to paint in the off season. If only I had Jim's paint booth!

 

[bosco659]

So my next concern will be how to paint some of these bits when it’s cold outside and I dont want overspray on everything in the garage. I found this table top spray shelter that may do me well for small parts. Add a 20x20 air filter and small fan and I should be all set. When not needed, I can fold it up and put it away. Economical too. Only about $55-$60 for the tent. I can wait until the spring to paint the bigger pieces if needed.

Looked on line and the 20x20 air filter is common. A 20” fan is also easy to find and pretty cheap. Looks like about $125.00 to get this set up in my garage. May be the next purchase (after electrolysis). I figured I’d get a 40x40 sheet of plywood, balance it on a Black and Decker workmate and I should be good to go. My Supra and Moto Guzzi are well covered so even if the spray wandered a bit, they should be protected. I sheet of poly over everything for insurance if needed. For fumes, I can run my roof vent.

 

[bosco659]

The bits have been in the Evaporust for about 15 hours. The first piece is doing well. There are however two heavier deposits of rust that are hanging on pretty tight. I just gave the process a bit of help by hitting those areas with a scraper. Back into the juice and I’ll see how it looks after a full 24 hours. Note, after being in the bath for about 6 hours I gave the pieces a scrub with a wire brush, hence the scratch marks.

 

[bosco659]

Here’s the second piece. It had heavier rust and was a darker colour than the other piece. I’m wondering if it had some oil or grease contamination. I scraped one end and put it back in. If after 24 hours it isn't cleaning up well, I may hit it with a torch to try to burn off possible oil and grease. Perhaps the best method for using this chemical is wire brush; degrease; burn off contaminants (not too hot); Evaporust. I may try this in a bit to see if it speeds up the process.

 

[bosco659]

More stuff. The two pieces are still in the Evaporust and I just had a peek and doesn’t appear there’s much more progress. I decided to go with method B. Degrease with varsol; burn off residue; wire wheel and / or scrape. Depending on results, Evaporust or electrolysis. Here’s my small grinder with the wire wheel. Cleaning the brake adjuster bore with a bore cleaning brush.

 

[bosco659]

 

[bosco659]

Parts cleaned with wire wheel and scraping (also burned off oil and grease). These parts came from the RR with the axles seal leak. Drum is from the LR.