Getting the ‘57 beetle back on the road in 2024

[Jim]

Some guys are telling me to shim the spring for additional pressure. I won’t do that yet but it’s a possibility for the future if I’m still not happy with the pressure.

That's how it's done on Lycoming's. Use washers to shim the spring up until you get your pressure.
Unfortunately that won't help your problem. Look at it this way, if you start the engine cold, rev it and pressure jumps to, say 50psi. That is the pressure it's relieving at... bleeding off excess pressure. If you're reading 5psi at idle, you're not even close to the "set" point of the spring. You can increase spring tension until it relieves at 100psi. Soon as you go to idle, it's gonna drop back to the same 5psi... about 95psi away from moving that spring.
Make sense?

 

[bosco659]

That's how it's done on Lycoming's. Use washers to shim the spring up until you get your pressure.
Unfortunately that won't help your problem. Look at it this way, if you start the engine cold, rev it and pressure jumps to, say 50psi. That is the pressure it's relieving at... bleeding off excess pressure. If you're reading 5psi at idle, you're not even close to the "set" point of the spring. You can increase spring tension until it relieves at 100psi. Soon as you go to idle, it's gonna drop back to the same 5psi... about 95psi away from moving that spring.
Make sense?

Sure makes sense.

 

[bosco659]

Sure makes sense.

In the world of my Toyota Supra, a very common mod is to shim the factory oil pump to address low oil pressure at idle and lower rpm’s. Perhaps a different oil pressure control design?

 

[TX650A Van Islander]

A short list indeed! I always ran 20W50 in my Corvairs in Ontario. It seemed a good choice for the air cooled engine in the ambient temps of that area for the spring to fall.

 

[bosco659]

A short list indeed! I always ran 20W50 in my Corvairs in Ontario. It seemed a good choice for the air cooled engine in the ambient temps of that area for the spring to fall.

I bought a 19L pail of 15W40 for the car but since I’m going the 20W50 route, I’ll just sell the oil to a friend. Hope to pull the relief valve out tomorrow and I ordered new oil pump gaskets. There’s a very remote possibility I installed too thick of a gasket behind the pump cover plate. I’m confident I’ll be able to address my oil pressure concerns this week. The noisy tranny is still a concern but I may be able to limp through this season with it. Oh, I have a new oil pressure switch on its way too.

You’ll have to stop by the next time you’re back in Ontario and take it for a spin!

 

[toomuchstuff]

Back in my VW days, we always ran straight 30 weight for 3 season use. I had both a 1960 with the same engine as yours as well as newer ones. That served my vehicles well both in the southwest and New England. You might want to try that to see if it boosts your low speed oil pressure.

 

[bosco659]

Found these old school photos in a file. Good reminder of what the car looked like in ‘98.

Also have the original bill of sale and owners manual!

 

[bosco659]

My first test drive a couple of weeks ago reported poor brake performance. Yesterday I went to adjust the brakes and decided to pull off a drum to inspect the surface to see if they had rusted since I did the brakes two years ago. The RF had an oily deposit on one shoe. Don’t know where that came from. I washed the shoe and drum and looked for a leak but couldn’t find one. Interesting though that the inside of that rim had evidence of a fluid leak. The only thing I could find was a trace of dampness at the swaged end of the flex line.

I looked where I parked the car and in that corner, on the plastic, was evidence of a leak. It wasn’t wet but there were stains on the plastic. I put down some cardboard and parked the car over it to see if anything will leak again.

The LF looked fine although the inside of that wheel had stains as well. Maybe from a fluid leak decades ago?

I spoke to a friend of mine who’s a retired mechanic and he said he’s had drum brakes where after storage the wheel cylinders can weep a bit but reseat after the first drive. Fingers crossed this is my situation.

I plan to check and adjust the rears today as well as other things it the rear end that are on my to do list.

 

[bosco659]

All 4 drums removed and brake components cleaned up again. Only the RF may need a revisit - I’ll keep an eye on it. Fortunately I have a spare flex line and wheel cylinder kit just in case. Brakes have been adjusted to the factory spec - tighten until they drag then back off 3-4 clicks. I’m pretty sure the brakes will work better now.

Transaxle gear oil topped up. I added close to 750ml. It’s not supposed to hold that much. I think some of tge oil has drained into the axle tubes which point downwards with the positive camber on the rear wheels.

Oil pressure relief valve checked and plunger moves freely. Getting the cap off of the relief valve spring was a booger. I really tightened it well while the motor was on the stand. I couldn’t loosen it with a large screwdriver and wrench so I bought a drag link socket and ground it to fit. That, on a 1/2” ratchet did the trick. I’m waiting for an oil pump gasket kit so I can replace the rear cover gasket.

Clutch adjusted and lock nut installed at the end of the cable.

I decided to drain the 15W40 oil that’s in there now and replace it with Valvoline VR1 20W50 oil. Oil is arriving today.

The lock / latch for the drivers vent window had broken off and to replace it meant major surgery for the door. I didn’t want to do that so a little size adjustment with a rotary tool and I made it work by adhering the latch yo the vent window glass with body panel adhesive. I need to let it cure 24 hours but I think it will work ok.

No parts tomorrow and rain is forecasted so I’ll finish covering the last door panel.

I’ll post a few pics tomorrow.

 

[atom4488]

These days, a brake upgrade for a vintage car always includes a disc conversion, at least on the front. Back in the day, I ran a 1959 Beetle with Porsche 356 brakes. The Porsche brakes were massive aluminum drums with steel liners, same bolt pattern as the Beetle and a bolt-on swap both front and rear. They came my way fortuitously and cheaply (free for the taking!). probably not so readily available now, but wow, were they ever effective!

 

[bosco659]

These days, a brake upgrade for a vintage car always includes a disc conversion, at least on the front. Back in the day, I ran a 1959 Beetle with Porsche 356 brakes. The Porsche brakes were massive aluminum drums with steel liners, same bolt pattern as the Beetle and a bolt-on swap both front and rear. They came my way fortuitously and cheaply (free for the taking!). probably not so readily available now, but wow, were they ever effective!

There’s a couple of big VW events happening in the next 2-6 weeks. One vendor has extensive knowledge on disc brake conversions. I’ll pick his brain when I see him. Before I drop more $$ into the car I need to make sure I’m going to keep it for a bit. By the end of the summer I’ll have the answer to that question.

 

[bosco659]

Yesterday I received a new oil pressure switch. The switch is supposed to turn the low oil pressure light on between 4-8 psi iirc. I tested the new switch and its’ contacts close at 4.5 psi. I retested the old one and confirmed it was coming on at 13.5psi, generating a premature warning. Perhaps my oil pressure was ok all the way along. I still need to take hot pressure readings with my new gauge.

The vent window latch on the drivers side was broken off. Fortunately the po gave me the broken part. Replacements are available but only in chrome and installation involves complete disassembly of the glass from the window frame, risking breakage. I reformed the broken latch so it fit better in the pocket that it came from then attached it to the glass with body panel adhesive. The latch is now fully functional.

This afternoon I’ll change the oil pump gasket.

The last door panel recovering is 50% complete.

Edit : Did a quick oil change as I plan to change grades. Removed the relief valve plunger again and cleaned up some scratches on the plunger. I was surprised how dirty the oil was with only and hour or so of run time. The screen caught a couple of small blobs of some soft foreign matter. No metal bits but as expected saw a bit of a metallic look to the oil at the bottom of the oil drain pan. I found the oil screen cover wasn’t flat at the bolt holes so with a couple of ball pein hammers, made it good. I think that may have been a source of dome of my oozing oil leaks.

 

[bosco659]

Put about 20 miles on the car today. Ran well, motor runs great. When hot I’ll get a flicker of the oil pressure light at idle but goes out as soon as you touch the throttle. Pressure at 2500 is above spec. Brakes are now working as would be expected to. The tranny is good with a noisy first gear while coasting or decelerating. I think the trick will be to get it into 2nd quickly. Downshifting into 1st must me done with the car at a full stop or you’ll get some nasty grinding. I’ll have to try double clutching but right now I’ll just stop.

The big thing to address now is the steering it’s too “squirrelly”. I’m going to get an alignment next week and try adjusting the steering gear box tomorrow. I thought it may be too loose so I tightened it up and now it’s too stiff. I replaced king pins and bushings so I know they’re ok. When I assembled the front end I was careful with the shims to get the proper camber. I don’t think castor is adjustable on this front end. Alignment should just be toe in. Fingers crossed I can get it tracking better.

 

[Jim]

The tranny is good with a noisy first gear while coasting or decelerating. I think the trick will be to get it into 2nd quickly. Downshifting into 1st must me done with the car at a full stop or you’ll get some nasty grinding. I’ll have to try double clutching but right now I’ll just stop.

Back in those days about every tranny had an un-synchronized first. Double clutching was second nature.

 

[atom4488]

Put about 20 miles on the car today. Ran well, motor runs great. When hot I’ll get a flicker of the oil pressure light at idle but goes out as soon as you touch the throttle. Pressure at 2500 is above spec. Brakes are now working as would be expected to. The tranny is good with a noisy first gear while coasting or decelerating. I think the trick will be to get it into 2nd quickly. Downshifting into 1st must me done with the car at a full stop or you’ll get some nasty grinding. I’ll have to try double clutching but right now I’ll just stop.

The big thing to address now is the steering it’s too “squirrelly”. I’m going to get an alignment next week and try adjusting the steering gear box tomorrow. I thought it may be too loose so I tightened it up and now it’s too stiff. I replaced king pins and bushings so I know they’re ok. When I assembled the front end I was careful with the shims to get the proper camber. I don’t think castor is adjustable on this front end. Alignment should just be toe in. Fingers crossed I can get it tracking better.

The steering box is of the ball-and-sector type. What happens is the ball/sector get worn in the straight-ahead position, so when you tighten the pre-load on the ball at straight-ahead, it is stiff at either side of neutral. Pretty common issue with steering boxes in general. Correct toe-in will be essential to get the car to track well. If its squirrelly, its a reasonable conclusion that you've got some toe-out somewhere. Pretty sure that you could avoid the cost of an alignment doing toe adjustment with a pair of string-lines. I did toe checks on my BMW race car weekly with string lines and a DIY toe-caliper.

 

[bosco659]

The steering box is of the ball-and-sector type. What happens is the ball/sector get worn in the straight-ahead position, so when you tighten the pre-load on the ball at straight-ahead, it is stiff at either side of neutral. Pretty common issue with steering boxes in general. Correct toe-in will be essential to get the car to track well. If its squirrelly, its a reasonable conclusion that you've got some toe-out somewhere. Pretty sure that you could avoid the cost of an alignment doing toe adjustment with a pair of string-lines. I did toe checks on my BMW race car weekly with string lines and a DIY toe-caliper.

Looked on line for DIY toe in checks. Looks like two methods, one with strings and the other marking the tire and measuring. I’ll have to dig deeper into this because I’m not liking the way the car tracks.

Last door panel done. I’ll install this afternoon and the interior is done.

 

[bosco659]

Last door panel on. One would think the last one would be the best quality but just the opposite. Had a bugger of a time making it fit and the vinyl has some wrinkles in it, but it’s done! I’m retiring from auto upholstery.

Final torque on wheel bolts and while walking by the open engine bay I noticed the pin for the fuel pump cam lever was working its way out of the pump body. Not good. I thought I’d replace it with a bolt and nut until I confirmed it was a hardened pin. Long story short, the pin came out and wouldn’t go back in. The pump linkages and levers were now disengaged.

About 4 hours later I got it back together. Seems like such a simple task but not so easy. I cleaned the pin and bore and applied some red loctite. Hopefully the will keep it in place. I’ll keep an eye on it.

The vintage motorcycle rally is on fire the weekend so no more beetle work until Monday? Then Saturday the 27 and Sunday the 28th are the big annual beetle meet days in Niagara Falls. I hope to get the steering improved before the weekend but it can be driven as is. If I can get enough break in mikes on it I’ll do another oil change and transaxle oil change.

 

[Jim]

Pretty sure that you could avoid the cost of an alignment doing toe adjustment with a pair of string-lines. I did toe checks on my BMW race car weekly with string lines and a DIY toe-caliper.

I hope to get the steering improved before the weekend but it can be driven as is.

String lines is how we used to do it.
Jack up both front tires and run some 2" masking tape around the center of the tire. Then brace a sharpie against something so you can spin the tire and get a line you can see/follow. Doesn't need to be in the center... it's only a front/back reference line.

Lower the tires back on the ground and push or drive the car forward about 6" to take up any slack.

With a friends help, run a piece of string across the front then back of the tires, referencing the sharpie line. If I didn't know what the toe in was supposed to be, I'd shoot for 1/8" to 1/4" toe in at the front.

Fwiw... I was in my 40's before I actually took a car to have the toe in checked on a machine. It's a good backyard hack.

 

[bosco659]

String lines is how we used to do it.
Jack up both front tires and run some 2" masking tape around the center of the tire. Then brace a sharpie against something so you can spin the tire and get a line you can see/follow. Doesn't need to be in the center... it's only a front/back reference line.

Lower the tires back on the ground and push or drive the car forward about 6" to take up any slack.

With a friends help, run a piece of string across the front then back of the tires, referencing the sharpie line. If I didn't know what the toe in was supposed to be, I'd shoot for 1/8" to 1/4" toe in at the front.

Fwiw... I was in my 40's before I actually took a car to have the toe in checked on a machine. It's a good backyard hack.

I’d like to try to do this. When you measure the distances between the lines, I trust the measurement should be taken at the center height or axle height? I just looked and I can take that measurement at the front of the tire but can’t on the back of the tire because the floor pan is lower than the axle height.
I read quite a few posts on beetle forums about using this method but how do I work around the pan obstruction? I must be missing something.
I can try this early next week or maybe even Sunday once I understand the process. I’ll measure the front axle height and floor pan height to clarify my concern.
The center of the front axle is 12-1/4” off of the ground and the floor pan is only 9-3/4”. I suppose I could do a bit of math and figure out the numbers if I take the measurements at 9-1/2” off of the ground.
I appreciate your help with this Jim.

Oh and yes the toe in is about 1/8”

 

[Jim]

About every car I ever did was lower than the axle height. You could do some math, but all we ever did was take a guess at how much less toe in we gave it. When you're dealing with small measurements, close enough is good enough. Say for instance you want 1/8" toe in and you can only get about halfway up from the floor to the axle, then we shot for about 1/16".
It's not rocket science, just get close.