Getting the ‘57 beetle back on the road in 2024

[bosco659]

I’d like to try to do this. When you measure the distances between the lines, I trust the measurement should be taken at the center height or axle height? I just looked and I can take that measurement at the front of the tire but can’t on the back of the tire because the floor pan is lower than the axle height.
I read quite a few posts on beetle forums about using this method but how do I work around the pan obstruction? I must be missing something.
I can try this early next week or maybe even Sunday once I understand the process. I’ll measure the front axle height and floor pan height to clarify my concern.
The center of the front axle is 12-1/4” off of the ground and the floor pan is only 9-3/4”. I suppose I could do a bit of math and figure out the numbers if I take the measurements at 9-1/2” off of the ground.
I appreciate your help with this Jim.

Oh and yes the toe in is about 1/8”

Just thinking. I need to make a caliper like measurement tool. I think I’ve got it now. Maybe a 2x3 with a pointer sticking out 90 degrees with the tip at 12-1/4”. On the other end I could have a small 2x3 block with a pointer too. The stacked height of the small block on top of the longer 2x3 would be 12-1/4” to the tip oh the movable pointer. Slide the pointer to the lines on the tires, mark the longer 2x3 and remove the assembly to measure point to point.

 

[bosco659]

About every car I ever did was lower than the axle height. You could do some math, but all we ever did was take a guess at how much less toe in we gave it. When you're dealing with small measurements, close enough is good enough. Say for instance you want 1/8" toe in and you can only get about halfway up from the floor to the axle, then we shot for about 1/16".
It's not rocket science, just get close.

Ok got it. That would be easier than making my wooden vernier. Lol. Thx

 

[atom4488]

The way I do it is as follows:
- center the steering wheel
- run a string lines on either side from behind the rear wheels, at the centerline of the wheel, parallel to the rear tire to the front of the car
- ensure the strings are equidistant from one another when measuring behind the rear wheels and in front of the fronts; you now have two parallel lines
- measure the distance from the string to the sidewalls (front of the centerline, back of the centerline of the wheel); the difference in the measurements is the toe of that wheel.
- set each wheel's toe to half of the prescribed setting
- et voila!
You can also set some tape lines on the ground and then use a framing square to reach up the centerline of the wheel to take your measurements.

 

[Grimly]

I use a pair of straight timber poles and bungee them to the wheels, pointing out to the front.
Simple geometry comes in - measuring between them at 4ft and 6ft tells me if the wheels are parallel, toed-in or toed-out. Adjust to suit.
I have noticed it's getting harder to find decent straight timber from the local stores, these days.
I had one pair that lasted a long time, but they eventually warped a bit.

 

[atom4488]

I use a pair of straight timber poles and bungee them to the wheels, pointing out to the front.
Simple geometry comes in - measuring between them at 4ft and 6ft tells me if the wheels are parallel, toed-in or toed-out. Adjust to suit.
I have noticed it's getting harder to find decent straight timber from the local stores, these days.
I had one pair that lasted a long time, but they eventually warped a bit.

Lots of methods that work for DIY alignment. All you really need to do is establish two parallel lines that are parallel to the vehicle's direction (typically off the rear wheels) and then measure the offset from parallel of each front wheel, at the center line of the hub and of the tread.

 

[bosco659]

I use a pair of straight timber poles and bungee them to the wheels, pointing out to the front.
Simple geometry comes in - measuring between them at 4ft and 6ft tells me if the wheels are parallel, toed-in or toed-out. Adjust to suit.
I have noticed it's getting harder to find decent straight timber from the local stores, these days.
I had one pair that lasted a long time, but they eventually warped a bit.

Did a toe in check with @Jim ‘s method. Found that the car had zero toe in. Adjusted it for 1/8”. Road test tomorrow. Made an alignment jig out of a 2x3 and two pieces of steel rod.

 

[bosco659]

80 mile drive this evening. Handles better now. Major influences include toe in adjustment and tightening up the steering box.

Massive fuel leak addressed yesterday and did not repeat itself.

Checked and reset timing to 28 degrees btdc at 2800 rpm.

Looks like I’m good to go for a while now. I have an occasional pop or misfire under light acceleration. Maybe happens 5% of the time so I’m not chasing it too hard.

120mikes on the new motor. The old girl hit 65 mph for a short burst. Must have been a 5% downhill grade. lol.

 

[Jim]

Well done, Vic... well done!!!

 

[bosco659]

Well done, Vic... well done!!!

View attachment 373255

Thanks Jim. Now what’s next

 

[bosco659]

Spare tire rim tune up. The tire is over 50 years old so I doubt it’s usable. Cool markings on it though. “Volkswagen Canada”. I’m impressed it still holds air. A wire and fibre wheel got most of the rust off, then three coats of thick paint. Tranny oil changed - see how dirty and nasty the oil looked after only 150 miles. I hopefully flushed out much of the old grunge.

 

[Raymond]

Tranny oil changed - see how dirty and nasty the oil looked after only 150 miles. I hopefully flushed out much of the old grunge.

I guess that's what modern oil with detergent does for you?

 

[bosco659]

Interesting. I never thought of that. If the car sat for over 53 years, its last oil change was in Dec, 1975 and they put in SAE10 oil and I’m using 20W50. I don’t have any records for the tranny oil service but it was very old, dirty and viscous. I believe the new oils I’m using are not high in detergent content but the gear oil’s chemistry apparently offers cleaning ability. Hopefully this gas flushed a bunch of the old gunk out. I was also surprised how dirty the engine oil was when I changed it with only 5 miles and a handful of stationary running hours. The engine oil after 100+ miles is still quite clean on the dipstick.

On the tranny I hope the gear oil’s cleansing properties doesn’t create unwanted leaks!

 

[TX650A Van Islander]

Wow Vic - great work! Impressive! Have fun at the Niagara Falls show! Just caught up on the last few weeks now.

 

[bosco659]

Wow Vic - great work! Impressive! Have fun at the Niagara Falls show! Just caught up on the last few weeks now.

Thx. Leaving in 45 minutes.

 

[kshansen]

Thx. Leaving in 45 minutes.

Lots of luck and post some pictures, I know those VW's can float but don't try going over the falls!

 

[bosco659]

The meet is so far well attended. Did the cruise now im putting my feet up for a bit. There’s tailgate parties happening but I may leave that for the young people. lol.

 

[bosco659]

On the way home from the VW meet the oil light came on at cruising speed. Made it to a civilized town and called a tow truck. They’re telling me it’s at least 2 hours bad end to a nice weekend.

 

[Wagner73]

On the way home from the VW meet the oil light came on at cruising speed. Made it to a civilized town and called a tow truck. They’re telling me it’s at least 2 hours bad end to a nice weekend.

Oh, so sorry...hope it's not anything major (or anything at all... maybe the new sending unit?). And after you really did all your homework and tested everything. And these engines are so simple and low stress...

 

[atom4488]

On the way home from the VW meet the oil light came on at cruising speed. Made it to a civilized town and called a tow truck. They’re telling me it’s at least 2 hours bad end to a nice weekend.

Sorry to hear that @bosco659! As an old Beetle guy, I am really surprised that you are having oil pressure problems in what is arguably one of the more reliable engines ever built. One of the first mods I did to all my Beetles was install a mechanical oil pressure gauge... they don't lie and are rarely if ever mis-calibrated. Now you always know what's really going on. The Beetle oiling system is as simple as it gets; if you don't have a significant external leak of pressured oil, a completely clapped oil pump or a a rod bearing that's knocking, where can the oil pressure be bleeding off? They only thing I can think of is a relief valve that is either sticking open after cold starts or has inadequate spring pressure.

From what I understand, your engine is sound and in good running order. You have reasonably heavy oil in the sump, so something other than the mechanicals is at fault or giving you a faulty indication. Try the mechanical gauge to see if you actually have a problem.

 

[Wagner73]

Sorry to hear that @bosco659! As an old Beetle guy, I am really surprised that you are having oil pressure problems in what is arguably one of the more reliable engines ever built. One of the first mods I did to all my Beetles was install a mechanical oil pressure gauge... they don't lie and are rarely if ever mis-calibrated. Now you always know what's really going on. The Beetle oiling system is as simple as it gets; if you don't have a significant external leak of pressured oil, a completely clapped oil pump or a a rod bearing that's knocking, where can the oil pressure be bleeding off? They only thing I can think of is a relief valve that is either sticking open after cold starts or has inadequate spring pressure.

From what I understand, your engine is sound and in good running order. You have reasonably heavy oil in the sump, so something other than the mechanicals is at fault or giving you a faulty indication. Try the mechanical gauge to see if you actually have a problem.

I installed a mechanical gauge on our '65 and it worked great. A little slow responding due to the narrow ID tubing, but good nonetheless. And never a problem...