Getting the ‘57 beetle back on the road in 2024

Was driving my Karmann Ghia one day when my right foot started getting hot. And I mean holy fuck hot. :yikes:
PO had installed a mechanical oil gauge (I would have if he hadn't). Anyway, the damn plastic line going into the back of the gauge came loose and it was pouring hot oil straight down to my (bare) foot. Had blisters on my foot and ankle for a week or more.

But other than that.... yeah, I second the idea of an oil pressure gauge.
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Yes that’s the plan. I need to figure out how to route the pressure line from rear to front.

When I got the car home I immediately put a mechanical gauge on a with coolish oil, the pressure shot up to 40+ psi at a fast idle on choke, at about 1400 rpm. Once it warmed up a bit, with the idle under 900, the pressure was 12.5psi. I revving the motor to 2,500 a the pressure increased to over 40psi, then settled in around 40 (assuming the relief valve was doing its job). I bench tested the new pressure switch I installed a couple of weeks ago. When I bought it, the contacts were opening at 4.5 psi iirc. Now they were opening at 13.5 psi. I left the switch for a few hours and tested it again. Contacted were now opening at 4.5 psi. I think the switch might be defective. The pressure gauge should help take the guesswork out of it.

Oh, btw, I got a recognition award for my car. In the top 30 best in the show. There must have been a couple of hundred cars. Lots of beetles, vans and newer water cooled VW cars.

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I need to figure out how to route the pressure line from rear to front.
IIRC there is no easy, perfect solution to this. As a dumbass kid, I think I ran the line up thru the body cavity on the driver's side, ran a small piece of - probably copper - tubing thru the foam in the cavity and the oil pressure line thru that, along the top above the door, and down the pillar adjacent to the windshield and thus behind the dash. Kid memory of '65 Bug.
 
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Yes that’s the plan. I need to figure out how to route the pressure line from rear to front.

When I got the car home I immediately put a mechanical gauge on a with coolish oil, the pressure shot up to 40+ psi at a fast idle on choke, at about 1400 rpm. Once it warmed up a bit, with the idle under 900, the pressure was 12.5psi. I revving the motor to 2,500 a the pressure increased to over 40psi, then settled in around 40 (assuming the relief valve was doing its job). I bench tested the new pressure switch I installed a couple of weeks ago. When I bought it, the contacts were opening at 4.5 psi iirc. Now they were opening at 13.5 psi. I left the switch for a few hours and tested it again. Contacted were now opening at 4.5 psi. I think the switch might be defective. The pressure gauge should help take the guesswork out of it.

Oh, btw, I got a recognition award for my car. In the top 30 best in the show. There must have been a couple of hundred cars. Lots of beetles, vans and newer water cooled VW cars.

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Glad to hear no major issues. Can’t wait to see it.
 
Was driving my Karmann Ghia one day when my right foot started getting hot. And I mean holy fuck hot. :yikes:
PO had installed a mechanical oil gauge (I would have if he hadn't). Anyway, the damn plastic line going into the back of the gauge came loose and it was pouring hot oil straight down to my (bare) foot. Had blisters on my foot and ankle for a week or more.

But other than that.... yeah, I second the idea of an oil pressure gauge. View attachment 373596
... and never trust the cheap-ass plastic line that comes with the gauge! I always used a steel or copper line (minimum 1/8" ID, better if bigger) with a flex-coil at the engine end.
 
... and never trust the cheap-ass plastic line that comes with the gauge! I always used a steel or copper line (minimum 1/8" ID, better if bigger) with a flex-coil at the engine end.
I’ve been researching this and agree that I should find a better line than the nylon line normally supplied with the gauge. I’m considering going with an electric gauge but have to find something that’s 6V compatible. The fun never ends!

I was also looking at adding a 6-12v converter for a USB port for charging my phone etc. if I did that I could use a 12v gauge.
 
IIRC there is no easy, perfect solution to this. As a dumbass kid, I think I ran the line up thru the body cavity on the driver's side, ran a small piece of - probably copper - tubing thru the foam in the cavity and the oil pressure line thru that, along the top above the door, and down the pillar adjacent to the windshield and thus behind the dash. Kid memory of '65 Bug.
Sounds like a very clever routing of the tube!
 
Gets 4.4 stars with over 300 postings and at 28 bucks, looks like a good one to me.

https://www.amazon.com/DIGITEN-Conv...rds=6v+to+12v+converter&qid=1782757718&sr=8-3

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This has got me thinking Jim. The 6V headlights on the car are pretty much useless. If I installed a pair of these, one for each side, I could install 7” housings with 12v led bulbs and I should be able to light up the road!🤔🤔. With a double contact relay I should be able to make high and low beams work too off of the same converter. I’ll have to take a voltage reading to make sure o can feed it with a solid 6V.
 
That thing puts out 10A max, but that need derating. Think of a car engine that's rated at 100hp. It'll give you 100hp, but if you drove it every day at redline with full throttle, how long would it last? Electrics work the same way. Run that thing at it's rated 10A and it ain't gonna last long.

If it were me, I'd call 6-7amps the max I'd ask it to do. And if you call it 7A max, that's 14A at 6v. So now you need to know how many amps your generator is comfortable pumping out? And how much will headlights as well as USB and oil gauge need?

It ain't ever simple, is it? :cautious:
 
I switched gears mid thought and was considering this in addition to the USB and oil pressure gauge.

Looks like a pair of LED headlight bulbs might draw around 7W @ 12v so maybe one converter for headlights and the other for my other accessories?

My friends accuse me of over thinking too much all the time. Probably true. First priority is to get peace of mind on the oil pressure. Then I can think about USB’s etc.

A friend said he may have a pressure gauge he would sell me with a 6V sending unit. Fingers crossed he come up with it.

Just ordered a converter.
 
I’ve been researching this and agree that I should find a better line than the nylon line normally supplied with the gauge. I’m considering going with an electric gauge but have to find something that’s 6V compatible. The fun never ends!

I was also looking at adding a 6-12v converter for a USB port for charging my phone etc. if I did that I could use a 12v gauge.
To each his own, but to me an electric gauge is not much different than the normal low-pressure indicator light. I'd go mechanical gauge only. The line gets run along the floor on the driver's side of the tunnel. IIRC, there is already a brake line running along there, no?
 
...the kinda stuff we don't readily forget.
'Nother funny story... same Ghia...

Stomped the brakes one day and they went to the floor. "Gingerly" drove home using the hand brake.
When I got out, looked at my feet and the right leg was soaked. Felt "squishy" too. Turned out the brake line rusted internally and ruptured right beside the gas pedal. soaked my pants and foot.

I'll never forget the line routing. :rolleyes:
 
'Nother funny story... same Ghia...

Stomped the brakes one day and they went to the floor. "Gingerly" drove home using the hand brake.
When I got out, looked at my feet and the right leg was soaked. Felt "squishy" too. Turned out the brake line rusted internally and ruptured right beside the gas pedal. soaked my pants and foot.

I'll never forget the line routing. :rolleyes:
I’m glad I listened to you and replaced the brake line (and all other brake hydraulic components). The pedal needs to be pushed pretty hard to stop the car although it’s much better now than the first time out.
 
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