coma13
übermensch
What an inspiring thread! Can I ask what wall thickness you used on the aluminum subframe tubing?
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osteoderm
out of the box
6061-T6 Aluminium, 1" Od, .870" Id, .065" Wall Thickness
osteoderm
out of the box
Checking off a few items on the always-expanding "to do" list in preparation for the Cafe Convergence in Providence this weekend...
When I mounted the fairing, I was moving fast, working a little sloppy, just trying to get on the road to enjoy as much of the riding season as possible. I made the fairing mounts from this random unknown-source heavy-wall 3/8" anodized alloy tubing. It seemed to weld up okay, but every welded piece has since broken right next to the weld in the HAZ.
The lower mounts are rubber-isolated from the start. The rear mounts broke and had rubber isolators added. The center mounts seem to be holding up okay (either their position makes them less suceptible to vibration, or they're just loose enough not to be stressed
).
This upper mount first broke on the left side a few weeks ago. I pulled over, whittled a twig to jam into the broken ends, then replaced the twig with 1/4" threaded rod once at home. The right side broke a few days later, and received another whittled peg by the side of the road.
However, a later adjustment (tweaking this upper crossbar aims the headlight) broke the right side again. More sawed-off bolts, locktight, and an a hastily-penned inspirational mantra made it last a few more days, but a new piece was inevitable...
Solid 3/8" 6061 Aluminium barstock, fastened to a 5/16" thick 6061 plate. Same centerline balljoint connection, same neutral indicator light, and a tapped-in fitting for another upcoming "feature", AKA just one more item on the list!
When I mounted the fairing, I was moving fast, working a little sloppy, just trying to get on the road to enjoy as much of the riding season as possible. I made the fairing mounts from this random unknown-source heavy-wall 3/8" anodized alloy tubing. It seemed to weld up okay, but every welded piece has since broken right next to the weld in the HAZ.
The lower mounts are rubber-isolated from the start. The rear mounts broke and had rubber isolators added. The center mounts seem to be holding up okay (either their position makes them less suceptible to vibration, or they're just loose enough not to be stressed
).This upper mount first broke on the left side a few weeks ago. I pulled over, whittled a twig to jam into the broken ends, then replaced the twig with 1/4" threaded rod once at home. The right side broke a few days later, and received another whittled peg by the side of the road.
However, a later adjustment (tweaking this upper crossbar aims the headlight) broke the right side again. More sawed-off bolts, locktight, and an a hastily-penned inspirational mantra made it last a few more days, but a new piece was inevitable...
Solid 3/8" 6061 Aluminium barstock, fastened to a 5/16" thick 6061 plate. Same centerline balljoint connection, same neutral indicator light, and a tapped-in fitting for another upcoming "feature", AKA just one more item on the list!
coma13
übermensch
Any progress on that clutch cover window?
osteoderm
out of the box
Sadly, no. An incredibly busy work season has spare time at a minimum, and I've been filling it with more riding than wrenching! It's not off my mind though, and the forum will be the first to see how it goes.
coma13
übermensch
Nothing wrong with more riding than wrenching.
racerdave
^ Gone not forgotten ^
And derm, as long as you are being quizzed, what about you wider hub and cush drive??
osteoderm
out of the box
Top of my "To-Do" list... er, well, pretty close to the top, anyways! Got sidetracked into re-doing my tank tie-down strap (pics to come).
Also, you may note that this little sale of mine is priced suspiciously close to what Buchanan's is asking me for a new 2.50"x18" shouldered alloy Excel rim...
The real hang-up at this point is that the rear of the bike will need to be apart for a few days to get the required new brake hanger spacing correct; if it was a straight wheel-for-wheel swap I'd be moving much faster on this!
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osteoderm
out of the box
In a moment of weakness, I bought another bike, so my attention is even more divided than usual! Still, I managed to tick off one more item on the XS project list...
The strap on the new tank looked pretty cool (at least to me!), but there were a few problems.
The strap was just a wee bit long, so while the tank was pretty secure, the strap would vibrate off-center, and the tank had that little bit of wiggle that always leads to chafing issues. It was also getting annoying having to unlatch it for every fill-up! The third issue was with the gas cap itself. These flush-mount caps are pretty decent, but the low internal vent kept me from filling up the top 1/5 or so of tank. I've always thought an external vent would help...
The two-cap kit I bought had one vented and one non-vented cap. I just drilled the non-vented one for an 1/8" fitting to attach an external vent line. Looks sorta-kinda GP race bike to my eye.
When I cut the strap to weld in the ring, I took out an extra 3/16", so the strap if properly snug now. The welding needs a little more smoothing, but here is where I insert my usual "I'd rather be riding than wrenching" argument.
Anyways, the tank is solid, the cap is vented, and one more item is off the list!
The strap on the new tank looked pretty cool (at least to me!), but there were a few problems.
The strap was just a wee bit long, so while the tank was pretty secure, the strap would vibrate off-center, and the tank had that little bit of wiggle that always leads to chafing issues. It was also getting annoying having to unlatch it for every fill-up! The third issue was with the gas cap itself. These flush-mount caps are pretty decent, but the low internal vent kept me from filling up the top 1/5 or so of tank. I've always thought an external vent would help...
The two-cap kit I bought had one vented and one non-vented cap. I just drilled the non-vented one for an 1/8" fitting to attach an external vent line. Looks sorta-kinda GP race bike to my eye.
When I cut the strap to weld in the ring, I took out an extra 3/16", so the strap if properly snug now. The welding needs a little more smoothing, but here is where I insert my usual "I'd rather be riding than wrenching" argument.
Anyways, the tank is solid, the cap is vented, and one more item is off the list!cruisingram
XS650 Member
Did you win?
osteoderm
out of the box
The small refinements continue: Swapping out the previous Brembo reservoir that was cushion-clamped onto the frame...
...for a new slick aftermarket ABM reservoir hard-mounted and tucked into a more-protected and somewhat less-conspicuous location...
I also swapped out the organic front brake pads for sintered HH pads, and finally got around to drilling and safety-wiring all three brake calipers.
I really want to wire all the fasteners on the bike that I can; besides safety, it's a cool race-inspired look I really like, and I think it suits the bike.
...for a new slick aftermarket ABM reservoir hard-mounted and tucked into a more-protected and somewhat less-conspicuous location...
I also swapped out the organic front brake pads for sintered HH pads, and finally got around to drilling and safety-wiring all three brake calipers.
I really want to wire all the fasteners on the bike that I can; besides safety, it's a cool race-inspired look I really like, and I think it suits the bike.
osteoderm
out of the box
Yes! I did win, but so far no much-anticipated prize-pack in the mail...
Oh well, it's all good fun.cruisingram
XS650 Member
congrats!
osteoderm
out of the box
Coming back from a ride on Wednesday evening, I found that the engine was getting a little sputter at 5100rpm. This was the extra kick in the ass I needed to complete some scheduled maintenance! Have a multi-state ride coming up on Sunday, and I want the bike purring for the highway...
Did the usual: oil, filter, cam chain tension check, valve check, tires, snug all the bolts, grease the swingarm pivot, etc. Moved on to do the timing, and found that the PAMCO magnet plate was a teensy bit wiggly... Pulled off the advance-side cover, and found this:
Pretty sure that's not supposed to happen!! May have been something that didn't go together quite right when I did the cam seals awhile back, a miscalculation with the stack of assorted notched and non-notched washers Pete supplies with this E-Advance mechanical advance delete part, or some other general looseness.
No matter what, the bike was dead in the water! Tried to jigger it back into place, but the timing was so wrong and erratic, I knew I had to make a new/better part, and fast!
Rummaged through the loose plumbing parts bucket ('fess up, you all have one!) and found a 3/4" NPT brass pipe plug. Into the lathe for some quick'n'dirty action, drilled, notched, and back on the bike:
I left the brass thick enough so that the notched washer isn't required; plenty more bearing surface to prevent future goofs! Not as pretty as I'd like, but it'll serve. Bike fired up on the first kick and timed up okay.
Did the usual: oil, filter, cam chain tension check, valve check, tires, snug all the bolts, grease the swingarm pivot, etc. Moved on to do the timing, and found that the PAMCO magnet plate was a teensy bit wiggly... Pulled off the advance-side cover, and found this:
Pretty sure that's not supposed to happen!! May have been something that didn't go together quite right when I did the cam seals awhile back, a miscalculation with the stack of assorted notched and non-notched washers Pete supplies with this E-Advance mechanical advance delete part, or some other general looseness.
No matter what, the bike was dead in the water! Tried to jigger it back into place, but the timing was so wrong and erratic, I knew I had to make a new/better part, and fast!
Rummaged through the loose plumbing parts bucket ('fess up, you all have one!) and found a 3/4" NPT brass pipe plug. Into the lathe for some quick'n'dirty action, drilled, notched, and back on the bike:
I left the brass thick enough so that the notched washer isn't required; plenty more bearing surface to prevent future goofs! Not as pretty as I'd like, but it'll serve. Bike fired up on the first kick and timed up okay.
osteoderm
out of the box
Well dangit, didn't make it to the Rice-O-Rama after all... An epic freeway breakdown claimed the day!
Cookin' along the road, putting a little distance between me and a Civic riding my ass (what is it with kids who want to pass you on the right when you're already going 75?), and >plunk< the back of the bike drops 4" and a nasty howling commences... No wiggle like a blown tire (been there, done that, no thanks!), and it's clutch in, gentle front brake, and over to the shoulder I go. Alarming, but not freaky; it could have been much worse I guess!
Left about 500' of rubber on the freeway! The upper monoshock clevis had sheared, the shock fell back against the tire, and the suspension completely collapsed until the tire was hard against the underside of the subframe/tail-section assembly.
I lifted the bike off the tire and propped the broken clevis back into place, just so I could roll the bike to a safer/wider section of shoulder, and snapped a few pics:
When a hot tire isn't marking the territory, it sure picks up roadside debris!
The plate mount extends forward in a strip that I often kidded myself was there to prevent the tire from wearing through the fiberglass tail... Ha. Ha. Looks who's laughing now? The underside of the tail shows a little cracking along the tubes, but the subframe itself is untouched, and the aluminium plate mount took the brunt. The plate itself just barely grazed the tire. I gotta say, the little bits of burnt tire stuck everywhere lend a certain bonzai race-bike effect, no?
There's the broken clevis. Here, the shock is just sitting in place as a prop-rod.
A self-employed nephew with a truck and a cellphone is always welcome on the scene!
I was back at my shop 2 hrs after the breakdown, but the day was going by pretty fast, and my chances of making a repair and getting back on the road for the 1-1/2 hr ride to the show was slim, but I battled on...
Here's the dirty lyin' bastard cheat stock Kawasaki part that laid me low:
My disappointment is tempered by the fact that it was a stock part that broke, not any of the custom linkage parts I fabbed! I started cleaning up the clevis, with the idea of finding a solid bolt to replace the hollow stud.
I managed to get the broken bits out, and clean off the old weld, but Sunday afternoons around here don't offer much in the way of available hardware... The nut welded into the frame is M16-1.5, and a high-grade fine metric bolt just wasn't to be found.
I've orderded a Grade 12.9 M16-1.5x50 bolt from McMaster; should be in-hand Tuesday. A little more fussing, a few welded beads, and hopefully I'll be ready to make the next event on the 13th!
Cookin' along the road, putting a little distance between me and a Civic riding my ass (what is it with kids who want to pass you on the right when you're already going 75?), and >plunk< the back of the bike drops 4" and a nasty howling commences... No wiggle like a blown tire (been there, done that, no thanks!), and it's clutch in, gentle front brake, and over to the shoulder I go. Alarming, but not freaky; it could have been much worse I guess!
Left about 500' of rubber on the freeway! The upper monoshock clevis had sheared, the shock fell back against the tire, and the suspension completely collapsed until the tire was hard against the underside of the subframe/tail-section assembly.
I lifted the bike off the tire and propped the broken clevis back into place, just so I could roll the bike to a safer/wider section of shoulder, and snapped a few pics:
When a hot tire isn't marking the territory, it sure picks up roadside debris!
The plate mount extends forward in a strip that I often kidded myself was there to prevent the tire from wearing through the fiberglass tail... Ha. Ha. Looks who's laughing now? The underside of the tail shows a little cracking along the tubes, but the subframe itself is untouched, and the aluminium plate mount took the brunt. The plate itself just barely grazed the tire. I gotta say, the little bits of burnt tire stuck everywhere lend a certain bonzai race-bike effect, no?
There's the broken clevis. Here, the shock is just sitting in place as a prop-rod.
A self-employed nephew with a truck and a cellphone is always welcome on the scene!
I was back at my shop 2 hrs after the breakdown, but the day was going by pretty fast, and my chances of making a repair and getting back on the road for the 1-1/2 hr ride to the show was slim, but I battled on...
Here's the dirty lyin' bastard cheat stock Kawasaki part that laid me low:
My disappointment is tempered by the fact that it was a stock part that broke, not any of the custom linkage parts I fabbed! I started cleaning up the clevis, with the idea of finding a solid bolt to replace the hollow stud.
I managed to get the broken bits out, and clean off the old weld, but Sunday afternoons around here don't offer much in the way of available hardware... The nut welded into the frame is M16-1.5, and a high-grade fine metric bolt just wasn't to be found.
I've orderded a Grade 12.9 M16-1.5x50 bolt from McMaster; should be in-hand Tuesday. A little more fussing, a few welded beads, and hopefully I'll be ready to make the next event on the 13th!
osteoderm
out of the box
Oh, and in case anyone was wondering, the bike was running AWESOME after yesterday's tune-up and PAMCO repairs! 
Uncle Bryan
XS650 Addict
Oh you magnificent bastard! I for one am really happy to here that you didn't get pitched off. Man, that was close 
osteoderm
out of the box
In retrospect, I'm glad this happened on a gentle sweep of freeway, instead of a twisty transition on a (slower) back road.
ryan79
XS650 Enthusiast
any luck, did ya get back on the road. I.M.O.C Italy bikes meet tomorrow in Sturbridge mass. kind of a haul but its a good show.
