Gotta stop looking at ads BMW F650

gggGary

If not now, When?
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Baraboo, WI, USA
Nice 5 hour round trip.
1997 Don't run, but prolly will, new tires, needs battery chain fork seals at the least. 20k miles. Clean title
Crazy old man, Um me not the seller.
Just heading home. Beautiful evening
 

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New battery and ran some fuel out the float drains, and it's running. Not well but the motor sounds healthy, no funny noises, got it to rev up cleanly a couple times, the carbs will need to come off for cleaning.
It's charging, all the electrics work.
Twas truly a barn, field, bike grass growinig up through parts, wasp nests bird poop.
The oil is milky, hoping it's just a water pump seal, a common issue on these.
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Parts arrived from China today, so headed in, waterpump so oil n coolant, then carbs.
Compression was Um, not impressive, with plugs out, sprayed in some carb cleaner, crank, pb blaster, crank. Will get some oil before start up. It started and ran on the carb cleaner in the cylinder.
Pretty clean under a little dirt. The plastic "skid plate" not even cracked.
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That engine use a balance shaft?
EDIT: Never mind. I knew they do. Not sure where my heads at today. :cautious:
 
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Did you ever try adding naptha to your fuel instead of going into the carbs? Adding 5 -10% to gas has worrked for me on lawn mowers, snow blower, outboards, weed eaters. The short carbon chain is pretty effective at softening/rinsing away the varnish gum residue of evaporated gas.
 
Did you ever try adding naptha to your fuel instead of going into the carbs? Adding 5 -10% to gas has worrked for me on lawn mowers, snow blower, outboards, weed eaters. The short carbon chain is pretty effective at softening/rinsing away the varnish gum residue of evaporated gas.
Two cents; I've aged out of the chemical carb repair set. Bout 100% certain I've got some completely plugged pilots, long as all the Tupperware is off I'm going into the carbs. Never gone in old carbs and said oh they didn't need this.
The oil. Filter looked good!
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Water pump out, seals and shaft replaced and back in, motor buttoned up. Will check the valve clearances and prolly retorque the head studs, cuz :twocents:that ain't just an XS650 thing. Then on to the carbys.
Motor looked good inside.
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There was a little damage to the fence in front of the sprocket. doesn't look like it's an issue.
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Got out for about 30 on Weathervane and did a little idle adjusting, running even better! At the store it started while I was positioning the kick starter. :D
 
Water pump out, seals and shaft replaced and back in, motor buttoned up. Will check the valve clearances and prolly retorque the head studs, cuz :twocents:that ain't just an XS650 thing. Then on to the carbys.
Motor looked good inside.
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There was a little damage to the fence in front of the sprocket. doesn't look like it's an issue.
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Got out for about 30 on Weathervane and did a little idle adjusting, running even better! At the store it started while I was positioning the kick starter. :D
Looks like it might be tough going up 1 tooth on the countershaft sprocket.
 
Welsh ist diese?
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Eureka, the low 60PSI compression reading!
Stuff in an earplug for the test,
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das ist wunderbar!
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Drained, and cleaned, flushed, gas tank and petcock. Now check valves, button up the head, then it's off with her carbies.
 
Welsh ist diese?
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Eureka, the low 60PSI compression reading!
Stuff in an earplug for the test,
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das ist wunderbar!
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Drained, and cleaned, flushed, gas tank and petcock. Now check valves, button up the head, then it's off with her carbies.
I'm just impressed that you apparently can decipher instructions in German! Hell, I'm still struggling to learn MoCo Harley-speak and it's written in my native language (kinda).o_O🤯
 
So, what….was it stuck on?
That revised compression is impressive!
With the engine not spinning, the compression release is "on." It's relieving compression. As the motor spins up, centrifugal force forces the bob-weight out and compression builds up to normal. It really is brilliant in it's simplicity.
 
Valves were all in spec .10=.15mm is the range, RH intake was near the lower end of the spec but still inside. Shim over bucket so not a big pain to change shims. Valve cover back on, frame tank oil screen cleaned.
Now it's off with her carbies.

While messing with this I'm also going through the OTHER BMW cuz I think it's going on a longish camping trip come July.
Couple little things done and thought I'll check the alternator belt. @GLJ
three bolts to the cam chain cover two plastic to plastic screws.
One bolt was already MIA, another broke off trying to loosen it. The MIA bolt was actually twisted off too.
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There goes the simple ten minute check. :mad:
Newish trick; use a center drill to establish the hole center in the bolt, it's better at letting you walk the hole to center without snapping. :cool:
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Bolts drilled and the hole stayed in them, no go on the easy outs, drilled out to tap size, cleaned the threads and reinstalled the cover. The belt still looked good. You can see the road salt effects. 93K on this one so far. Also did oil, filter, drive shaft splines, and pumpkin fluid, swing arm bearing grease, set valves, checked spark plugs, last week.
Ride what is this riding you speak of?
 
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A centrifugal compression release???
Early V-Rods had similar centrifugal comp release to aid starting, later models they did like Yam on the 650, amped up the battery and starter motor.
I keep being intrigued by some of the BMW 800cc parallel twins, knowing they're a Rotax supplied item but general cost of ownership and issues with ABS have held me back
 
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