Wasn't happy with the first locknut I made. I revised my dimensions and made a V2. Also made a copper washer. Worked just like I'd hoped.
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Grouchie's 1977 build thread
- Thread starter grouchie77
- Start date
Nice!!
Did you blue it or anodize it black or is that an illusion?
No it's just machined 1045 medium carbon steel. Must be the lighting.
Finished my PCV cover. It doesn't have baffles like the stock piece, but I may design a sub-plate that incorporates baffles and just get longer cap screws.
Made a subplate so that there's a baffle at least for the PCV box.
Also, after much frustration and literally drilling into my workbench to bolt the sump plate to, and putting a 2 foot cheater bar on my breaker bar, I finally got that drain plug out. Never been able to get that one before in the 13 years I've had the bike. Will have to source more copper washers.... or just do what I always do and head to the lathe tomorrow after lunch before the bosses get back from their lunch.
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Also need to make another 4mm square valve adjuster wrench. I made one years ago but that was 3 moves and 1 state ago.
Comes with convenient pegboard mounting-hole so I don't lose this one.
Of course now that I spent time making another, that means I'll find my original somehow.
Got the PMA rotor assembled, and I now have to plan my wiring. I think I'm nearly ready to throw the motor back in the frame, but I'd like to test fire it first on the stand.
Yaaaayyy wiring.....
Yaaaayyy wiring.....
Kinda hard to run an engine with no oil in it... the hexes on the stock drain plugs are all boogered up so I just made 2 new ones. That way I don't have to buy Chinese garbage from Mike's.
303 stainless steel.
Yes, I know there's no magnet in them. But that can and will be remedied. Also will drill for safety wire.
I'm at the point I think where all I have to do is put the oil feed tube and banjo bolts on, put the intake and carb on, add oil, and the engine should be ready to test fire on the stand.
I have a Hughs PMA kit, no electric starter, and a capacitor from TC Bros.
I think with enough thought I can make just enough electrical hookups to make the thing work.
I like using CADD software to design mechanical parts. This leads me to my question.
Is there some sort of free software I can download so that I can design my own wiring diagram?
I have a Hughs PMA kit, no electric starter, and a capacitor from TC Bros.
I think with enough thought I can make just enough electrical hookups to make the thing work.
I like using CADD software to design mechanical parts. This leads me to my question.
Is there some sort of free software I can download so that I can design my own wiring diagram?
I use TinyCAD. It's made for schematics, a low learning curve... and free. Works great!!
https://www.tinycad.net/
Has real good Youtube support/community also.
Loving all the CNC parts.
Alright, this is my first attempt at this, so I'm sure it's riddled with errors. Again, I'm a machinist, not an electrician nor electrical engineer.
This is a wiring diagram that just allows the engine to fire on the test stand, that's it.
I have a Hugh's PMA kit, a TC Bros capacitor in place of a battery, and it is kick only now.
Stock 1977 points setup and (probably) stock coils, unless they were replaced with stock replacement coils.
Let me know your thoughts!
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I suggest for your test setup to use a battery instead of a capacitor. It will take a few kicks to charge the cap.
Actually its a good opportunity to test, get it running with the battery ,then try the capacitor only.
The following is intended to be constructive not nit picking.
Line cross overs can be minimised by repositioning components it often means a few redraws.
For example if the earth bar was moved to the left above the pma I think the cross overs could be avoided.
it makes no difference functionally it just makes the drawing easier to follow.
Actually its a good opportunity to test, get it running with the battery ,then try the capacitor only.
The following is intended to be constructive not nit picking.
Line cross overs can be minimised by repositioning components it often means a few redraws.
For example if the earth bar was moved to the left above the pma I think the cross overs could be avoided.
it makes no difference functionally it just makes the drawing easier to follow.
Agree with Signal. I've lost count of the guys coming on the forum 'cause their rt leg is wore out from kicking. We tell 'em to temporarily hook up a battery and it fires right up.
After all the runnin' stuff is sorted, then go figure out the capacitor.
Also, the X's aren't necessary for wire crossing, they just add a bit of confusion. The standards I've worked with have dots for connections and nothing for wires crossing over.
The X's were optional, and I've known that the dots mean junctions. I just like drawing blueprints
Good tips about the battery, however, this bike had run on a battery before... for a half a mile then died.
So my thought behind using the capacitor was to make sure the PMA system is actually functioning, as I'm not convinced it was the last time the bike was on the road.
