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So my thought behind using the capacitor was to make sure the PMA system is actually functioning, as I'm not convinced it was the last time the bike was on the road.
To test the charging system use a fully charged known good battery. With motor running above idle voltage at battery should be around 14.5V. GLJ replied while I was typing..
So my thought behind using the capacitor was to make sure the PMA system is actually functioning, as I'm not convinced it was the last time the bike was on the road.
Can't test the PMA if you can't start it.
And if it won't start, where do you start.... PMA, capacitor, ignition... miss-wired somewhere?
Trust us, use a battery first. That takes the PMA and cap away as variables. Now you're just at iggy or wiring. Your leg will thank us.
Organized it a bit and used a battery in lieu of the capacitor.
My main.... concern? is the jumble between the switch and the spark plug wires. Best as I could glean from my shop manual, the connections concerning the condenser pack and points and coils is as is depicted here.