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So my thought behind using the capacitor was to make sure the PMA system is actually functioning, as I'm not convinced it was the last time the bike was on the road.
To test the charging system use a fully charged known good battery. With motor running above idle voltage at battery should be around 14.5V. GLJ replied while I was typing..
So my thought behind using the capacitor was to make sure the PMA system is actually functioning, as I'm not convinced it was the last time the bike was on the road.
Can't test the PMA if you can't start it.
And if it won't start, where do you start.... PMA, capacitor, ignition... miss-wired somewhere?
Trust us, use a battery first. That takes the PMA and cap away as variables. Now you're just at iggy or wiring. Your leg will thank us.
Organized it a bit and used a battery in lieu of the capacitor.
My main.... concern? is the jumble between the switch and the spark plug wires. Best as I could glean from my shop manual, the connections concerning the condenser pack and points and coils is as is depicted here.
These look awesome, good on ya! I bought a machined set some months ago, but they pissed me off bc I had to remove them to get to the spark plugs, so I tossed them...
These look awesome, good on ya! I bought a machined set some months ago, but they pissed me off bc I had to remove them to get to the spark plugs, so I tossed them...
Nope, machining your own with care, you made some very nice ones that look great and work well!
The ones I purchased were from an online supplier and probably mass-produced to "look" good without a thought about real functionality. And it wouldn't have pissed me off if they had mentioned this in the listing. But no, buyer beware. They didn't even respond when I contacted them to see if they knew of the issue.