Guss's '80 special - it's alive!

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Thanks guys.
My slides have 2 little screws inside. Probably have the adjustable kind eh? I have not messed with them for fear of damaging the rubber diaphragms. I do have new needles and needle jets though that I have not installed. Only things I've changed from stock are new float valves and seats and larger main and pilot jets ..... and turning the fuel mixture screws out past the stock 1.5 turns. I have no idea if my air jets are '130's' :) lol.

I'll keep plugging away and will re-read that carb doc in the tech section :)

Good to know that low idle at lights is not unique to me and cool idea about the solder! Thank you.see pic of street legal version ;) tires are shinko 712's
 
probably some lock-tight on those 2 screws........i used my cordless on the screw setting, rachet set very low.....buzzed it a bit, then increased increments a notch, buzzed again, repeat till they loosen..........

removed slide first......

Not finished but it's worth a look.....http://www.xs650.com/media/4e3-3w6-3u6.26741/

Taken me all of 5 hours to do this...........
 
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cool idea about the solder!
The solder joints I mentioned were either not good to start with or degraded over time into cold joints. Reflowing or better yet, removing and resoldering with good solder and temps will solve a lot of mysterious turn signal things. Similar thing with joints in the TCI box, I would just reflow them all while the iron was out. Also, just remove the turn signal canceller, if you can remember to turn the signals off yourself.
 
The 2 screws you see in the slide hold the retaining plate for the needle in there. The same set-up is used for all the BS34s so that's not going to tell you what needle is in there. You'll have to take it out and see.
 
Thanks guys. Ya I took it out last night at 3 turns out on the mixture screw. No diff really. Maybe slightly better. It's exactly like xjwmx described: "wants to die at idle (or at least pretend it's going to" lol. :) So I keep a little throttle on when stopped.

I have an auto signal canceller? Must admit I never thought I had one of those on a bike that old. Where is it?

After last night, I'm thinking the problem coild be with the manual cancel mechanism. the right signal works best after first engaging the left signal, then gently cancel left signal (push in) then ever so gently engage right signal. I will take it apart tonight and inspect and take pictures! Carb tunning to be continued.... messing about with signal lights while operating bike is distracting - I want to sort that out first :) thanks again!
 
Solder could be and issue, and worth checking out when in there...........be cautious taking the switch apart there are a lot of small parts and taking pics at every stage will help when reinstalling.........

Clean all the connections, i use 1500 wet and dry with WD40 as a lube and even then it is a very light touch to clean the contacts.....they are very soft.and easy to damage......You may find some wires have strands broken........

In the pic you can see the oblong bracket with the 3 wires soldered side toward you..........this can be taken out and the metal pried open . (BE VERY GENTLE), to get at the contacts.........before replacing you will find the metal has stretched so wont hold the plastic, bend the sides so they are to close for the black plate to slip into and again....... GENTLY............open them just enough to get the black plate to slip in.

I used 5twins pic to help show a before and after and will also help for dismantiling and assembly..........note the 2 types of grease 5twins has used

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I believe the handle bar ground wire goes into the headlight bucket if the handle bars are not grounded that is my first place to look
some times the ground wire comes unplugged from it's harness ground connection, because there is so much stuff in the headlight bucket and it's very easy to have them plugged in wrong....
Bob.....
 
If the ground wire was loose or come out of its connector, one of 2 things would happen. 1; Indicators would not work. 2; the intermittent working would not be regular as per your explanation.

Your whole wiring loom needs to be continuity tested. this will pick up any loose or damaged connections

Be methodical with all the electrical connections, (bullet and couplings), switches, and ground connections.

A bit extreme as the loom had been sitting for years.
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Ok. I took it apart and yup... there's a lot of little screws and parts in there. I'm going to need more than 20 min. I think I'll disconnect it entirely and bring it in the house for good going over. :)
 
Not a good shot of the solder spots at all, but like I said... I'll need more time and light to work by :) will also start checking all the connections. I've fixed a couple broken wires at the tail light already. Time to give the front end some attention I suppose. I'm going to try some grease in there after I clean it up :)


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IMG_2028.JPG IMG_2029.JPG IMG_2030.JPG IMG_2031.JPG Today I took the signal light housing apart. Cleaned the $*#t out of it with electronic spray cleaner and lubed the push lever. I did not re flow any solder as I'm fairly sure I would have royally cocked something up. Took it for a short spin and it seems better. Will watch it carefully. If the intermittent issue comes back I'll try the re solder.l bit. Some pics 1 before (dirty) and 3 after the cleaning. I noticed my lever is bent... maybe that's not helping either.

I also changed my front brake pads.... I will try and dig up an old thread from someone who had issues and enter my findings.
 
I'ed just take my needle nose pliers and put one tip at the base of the switch near the slide slot and the other below the plastic on the lever and twist it till it's straight....you need 3 hands to do it but if you have a vice to hold it your in like flynn !
.....
Bob.....
 
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Right on :) I'll try it thanks.
So I took it out for a 40 min ride to Canadian tire on some faster roads today. Signal lights are working much better. Knock on wood :). I was going to get some feeler gauges to check my valves. I check my plugs after each ride and they are consistently black and dry, sometimes oily. Manual says poor oil control... worn valve guides or piston rings or too rich. I definitely have hard starting, hesitation and misfire issues. Couldn't find feelers small enough anywhere - can tire, napa or auto value :( Another order to xsdirect in my future I suppose.
But then I get out of can. tire and notice a small 1" diam. puddle of fresh oil under the kick stand. Took it home and checked it a few times over several hrs. It is definitely dripping oil from a bolt it seems near the starter. See pic l. I guess I just found my new priority :)
 
That bolt really isn't a leak point. The ones around it that are get dome nuts and copper sealing washers. But if you look at this pic, directly above that wet area is a very common source of leaks, the clutch pushrod seal .....

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Yup. There's a small amount of fresh oil under the left cover. Only happens when I ride it for an hr or more, which is very rare. On the list to replace clutch push rod seal.

Big weekend. Got lots done on the bike.
- cam chain adjust
- checked valves. adjusted 3 out of 4. Both intakes were .07 so I tightened to .06.
- replaced sump filter. Yes, I broke a bolt!!! I even hand tightening the bolts back on carefully as I read in here to be very careful. 3/6 managed to torque to 7lbs. The other 3 felt weird so I took them out to look and voila, 1 was broke and the other 2 looked weird. Like ready to break. I was lucky that there was just enough bolt sticking out so I was able to grab it with a vice grip. Dodged a bullet there. My filter wasn't too bad I think. I replaced it anyway. took 4 hrs with a trip to get 6 new metric bolts and more oil. The new bolts torqued to 7 lbs nicely.
- did compression test today as well. A tad more than 135 in both. Kicked it 15 times at least before it stabilized at about 135. Supposed to be higher right? :(
- installed new petcock from xsdirect. My original works ok, but I figure the vacuum business will eventually fail so why not replace it now. Well, those little f$&&&g orange washers suck. I broke 2/4 of them in in the first 2 min trying to get the 90 degree bits to point towards the carbs. After a lot of head scratching, and since nothing from xsdirect has any sort of instructions, I searched here and found that one guy had a washer that was thinnier than the rest and that enabled him to turn the fuel line nipple to where it worked for him !!! So I rubbed one of my washers up and down a sheet of sand paper until it was thin enough to get me pointed in the right direction ;) now I've read more about those little orange sealing washers failing and now im wondering why I even bothered.
- I put on a 79 special fender to see how it would look. It has only one tail light unit instead of tail light plus licence plate light on my 80. Did a bit of wiring to make it work. Only needs 3 wires. Contemplating using an old triumph single seat. Not sure how I can make it work. Imagine a shorter rear fender with the light unit moved closer to the seat.

Will tackle the carbs this week. try a needle adjust to see if I can get some consistent throttle. Snow in the forecast.

Cheers. G
 

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Update. It’s been a while. So my bike is running good and I’ve got the oil leaks sorted out. It was definitely the clutch push rod seal. All good now. I’ve got nearly 100km on it this spring so far. Some minor backfire still with these awfully pipes..,, but hope to resolve that soon enough ;) also painted, fitted a triumph single seat and made some prototype badges for fun with my daughter as well.

So, up next is new exhaust. After lots of research I decided to go with the commando system for specials from xsdirect here in Canada. 5twins and other smart folks on the forum seem to like the commandos, so I figured what the heck. They are just barely in my budget - the replica system at over $6 hundred is not, and I’m really looking for the noise level to be as low as I can get it.

My only concern is that the commando system kit require reducers. While I wait for delivery.... does anyone have advice on the best way to ensure a good tight fit when using reducers?

The instructions don’t even mention reducers, so I’m thinking perhaps the kit may have included different mufflers at some point in time.

Cheers, Gus :)
 
There are 2 versions of the Commando mufflers, one with a larger inlet and reducers to fit different sized head pipes, and one with a 1.5" inlet to fit stock or Mike's replacement head pipes. The full exhaust "kit" should have the 1.5" inlet mufflers matched to the included 1.5" head pipes, so no reducers should be needed.

The Commando mufflers have a threaded hole in the baffle plate on the end of the muffler. There should be a couple large short Allen bolts included to plug them. That will mellow the sound a bit, they'll be a little louder if you leave the bolts out. I tried mine both ways, liked the sound better with the plug bolts in.
 
Hmm. Unfortunately there’s no such option to buy that one. Not at xsdirect anyway. Comes with non removable baffles and no screws. Emgo universal. :(
 
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