Handlebar vibration reduction - bar end weights?

[bosco659]

The lead shot is essentially the lead pellets from shot gun shells. Not 100% sure of the size (diameter) of the pellets - need to look that up. Looks like #9.
Ref: https://www.advrider.com/f/threads/reducing-handlebar-vibration-with-lead-shot.834834/

The bar snake is a retail item. I’ll look and post a link.
https://www.barsnake.com/

No I haven’t tried either one. Too lazy I guess but should give it a try this winter.

 

[Jan_P]

Large Soft grips can be a way Forward even bigger than these in the picture
( I also have bar end weights )

 

[bosco659]

Large Soft grips can be a way Forward even bigger than these in the picture
( I also have bar end weights )



View attachment 341712

I put these on my Moto Guzzi. Helped a bit. Used “Grip Puppies”

 

[Bjorn]

The lead shot is essentially the lead pellets from shot gun shells. Not 100% sure of the size (diameter) of the pellets - need to look that up. Looks like #9.
Ref: https://www.advrider.com/f/threads/reducing-handlebar-vibration-with-lead-shot.834834/

The bar snake is a retail item. I’ll look and post a link.
https://www.barsnake.com/

No I haven’t tried either one. Too lazy I guess but should give it a try this winter.

We don't have to many shotgun equipment here.....
Can't find the bar snake brand either. Maybe I can source some lead pallets through another industry.

 

[Bjorn]

I tried grip puppies and absolutely hated them. Didn't do anything for me and they are massive. Very awkward for holding and controlling the handlebars

 

[gggGary]

This guy went out of business but these soft silicone grips are the bomb! Between soft and the paddle that supports the wrist they are real luxury. I snagged several extra sets before the company disappeared. If I could build them with heating elements it'd be a world beater.

 

[bosco659]

We don't have to many shotgun equipment here.....
Can't find the bar snake brand either. Maybe I can source some lead pallets through another industry.

Reading up a bit on using lead shot, a few questions arise. Maybe someone who had done this can comment.
- do you fill the bars with lead or just the ends, maybe last 8”?
- is it necessary to bind the shot with something like silicone? 2 part, pourable silicone is easy to get but the cost is increasing
- with the appropriate stopper, what about pouring molten lead in the bars? Or is it advantageous to allow the lead shot to move around like in a dead blow hammer

 

[Jim]

is it necessary to bind the shot with something like silicone?

I've never done it, but I had a friend that just threw the shot in there and capped the ends. Don't recall for sure... a Triumph maybe? Anyway, a year or two later he uncapped the bars and all that was left was lead dust and some small chunks of shot. If I were to do it, I'd use a binder of some sort.

 

[bosco659]

I've never done it, but I had a friend that just threw the shot in there and capped the ends. Don't recall for sure... a Triumph maybe? Anyway, a year or two later he uncapped the bars and all that was left was lead dust and some small chunks of shot. If I were to do it, I'd use a binder of some sort.

Thx Jim, good intel. Makes sense the lead would disintegrate over time. If I don’t plan to fill the bars and just do the outer ends, pouring a silicone mixture in should be relatively easy. I’ll research buying options.

 

[Jan_P]

Not sure if helps but can be simpler to buy locally
Body work tin they used to have a lot lead in them but is reduced

I believe there is less lead in shotgun cartridges also . Not spreading it in the environment
I remember hearing about some problems with that in older Shotguns .don't remember why Higher pressure ? Steel balls ?

With these a plastic bag or so pushed in and a piece of the rod can work

 

[Jim]

Thx Jim, good intel. Makes sense the lead would disintegrate over time. If I don’t plan to fill the bars and just do the outer ends, pouring a silicone mixture in should be relatively easy. I’ll research buying options.

Like I said, I haven't done it, but I have studied the problem a bit. What I was thinking is some (thin wall) plastic or rubber tubing that's a snug fit inside the bars. Cut it to the length you want and fill 'em with a lead/silicone slurry mix. Once that's cured, slide 'em into the bar ends.

That way you have a removable item you can play around with..... different lengths and weights. A way to fine tune 'em.

 

[GLJ]

These come with lead already in them just like the originals did from 70-72.

 

[bosco659]

Like I said, I haven't done it, but I have studied the problem a bit. What I was thinking is some (thin wall) plastic or rubber tubing that's a snug fit inside the bars. Cut it to the length you want and fill 'em with a lead/silicone slurry mix. Once that's cured, slide 'em into the bar ends.

That way you have a removable item you can play around with..... different lengths and weights. A way to fine tune 'em.

The thin wall tubing may be tricky to find. The common stuff is vinyl whose wall thickness will displace too much of the weighted goo. I’ll have a look around.

@GLJ , wonder if the whole bar is weighted or just the ends.

 

[bosco659]

More to come on my attempt to add weight to my bars to reduce annoying vibration.

 

[Jim]

The thin wall tubing may be tricky to find. The common stuff is vinyl whose wall thickness will displace too much of the weighted goo. I’ll have a look around.

@GLJ , wonder if the whole bar is weighted or just the ends.

You might find some steel or aluminum tubing to fit... extremely thin wall that way.

 

[GLJ]

@GLJ , wonder if the whole bar is weighted or just the ends.

Just the ends. How far in I do not know.

 

[bosco659]

Just ordered this pourable 2 part silicone. Not sure of the volume I’ll receive. The sneaky buggers use different units of measure for different sizes. Thus was 21 oz by wt. Looking at my bars I shouldn’t need much more than 8” per side, most of the volume being displaced by lead shot.

 

[bosco659]

You might find some steel or aluminum tubing to fit... extremely thin wall that way.

Just thinking…. Maybe I’ll spray the inside of the bars with silicone spray or Pam. Then before I pour the mixture in, I’ll imbed a washer with a wire attached to it. If I want to remove the silicone / lead mixture, I just need to pull the wire out and the silicone hot dog should come out with it.?

 

[5twins]

I installed bar end weights in both of mine. They help a little, mostly with the high frequency vibes and "tingles". On my '78, I used some solid steel bar slightly smaller than the I.D. of the bars. It was an old control rod from a Foosball table, lol. A buddy machined some grooves in both ends so I could fit o-rings, and this keeps the bars from rattling around in there. I didn't have access to any more of that steel bar so on the '83, I had to come up with something else. Here's what I did, see post #78 .....

https://www.xs650.com/threads/200-special.51454/page-4

 

[bosco659]

I installed bar end weights in both of mine. They help a little, mostly with the high frequency vibes and "tingles". On my '78, I used some solid steel bar slightly smaller than the I.D. of the bars. It was an old control rod from a Foosball table, lol. A buddy machined some grooves in both ends so I could fit o-rings, and this keeps the bars from rattling around in there. I didn't have access to any more of that steel bar so on the '83, I had to come up with something else. Here's what I did, see post #78 .....

https://www.xs650.com/threads/200-special.51454/page-4

Thanks I had a look at the post. When Jim mentioned a tube I looked at vinyl but it was too tight or loose. I didn’t think about slitting it. I think I’ll go ahead with weighting it with lead shot and silicone. I rammed a piece of wine fork to the bend in the bars to a final depth of 8-1/2”. Then I’ll add the weight and another cork. Empty bars weighed 840 gms. I’ll post details as I progress along.