Hey Mikey; look again in that thread I posted
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hard clutch pull
- Thread starter Mikey
- Start date
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Mikey
got muscles in his head that ain't never been used
I see what your getting at
Me going around the filter boxes and the carbs is giving me more bends than I need
I see the crossover on the frame too
The whole routing seems pretty fluid
Thanks !!
Me going around the filter boxes and the carbs is giving me more bends than I need
I see the crossover on the frame too
The whole routing seems pretty fluid
Thanks !!
Mikey
got muscles in his head that ain't never been used
But I enjoyed having to take the filter boxes off just so I could jam up the cable a bit 
Yes, you need to think multi-dimensional
Every bend... be it fore and aft, up and down or left to right.... all add to the cumulative amount of bends. The fewer bends the better.
Mikey
got muscles in his head that ain't never been used
You guys are good
Bolt and unbolt and reroute it's the parts replacers life for me
Thanks !!!
Bolt and unbolt and reroute it's the parts replacers life for me
Thanks !!!
On the Tracker I went to the right side of the tank tunnel, then through the frame under backbone but above the breather and behind the carbs. I tested this without the tank and with the tank, good (best I could get) feel and low pull pressure. I have low CB550 Supersport bars with ~2" rise.
Maybe you need one of these. It is a right hand model but left hand versions are available....
Pulling the tank this afternoon for one more try at rerouting.
Leave the tank off and use ties of wire and try several different routes. I go between speedo and tach with mine under theiggy switch.
Yeah, it's a Yamaha item... came on my SG ('80).
NLA
I think the Euro bars help a little for the top part of the cable routing. The way they droop down slightly at the ends angles the cable up. You get a nice, gentle arch up over the key switch .....
You have to push the cable aside to insert or remove the key but once it's in, there's plenty of clearance for it .....
I also route the cable down between the headlight ears, inside the fork tube, on both of mine. It doesn't seem to be an issue. The lever pull on my '83 is much stiffer than on the '78, still trying to figure that out. Both set-ups are virtually the same (same routing, cable, perch & lever), the one difference being the clutch spring spacers. I have the aftermarket ones from Mike's in the '78, homemade drilled stock screws as spacers in the '83. Unfortunately, all those homemade ones didn't drill through straight. On some, the hole on the bottom is off-center. I'm thinking maybe that's binding the clutch spring. I have another set of the aftermarket ones to swap in at the next oil change so we'll see.
You have to push the cable aside to insert or remove the key but once it's in, there's plenty of clearance for it .....
I also route the cable down between the headlight ears, inside the fork tube, on both of mine. It doesn't seem to be an issue. The lever pull on my '83 is much stiffer than on the '78, still trying to figure that out. Both set-ups are virtually the same (same routing, cable, perch & lever), the one difference being the clutch spring spacers. I have the aftermarket ones from Mike's in the '78, homemade drilled stock screws as spacers in the '83. Unfortunately, all those homemade ones didn't drill through straight. On some, the hole on the bottom is off-center. I'm thinking maybe that's binding the clutch spring. I have another set of the aftermarket ones to swap in at the next oil change so we'll see.
Better now. 
I know I'm late to this thread, but is there any way you can swap back to stock springs? The Barnett springs are much heavier, and likely the cause of the heavy pull. I tried them once, and instantly regretted the stiffness. Just a thought.
Mikey
got muscles in his head that ain't never been used
Did you keep the original springs
I've put half n half stiff and regular springs in a clutches before. (put all the regular on one side then clutch when that side is closest to the lever for an easy pull)
Now that’s interesting. Never thought of 50/50. Not sure I understand what you mean in parentheses. I assume you just alternate springs stiff / reg / stiff…..?
Yes, usually you alternate them. I'm not sure what he was saying at the end there either. A joke maybe?
Yes, the Barnett springs are the stiffest aftermarket ones you can get, something like 43% stiffer I think. I use EBC or Vesrah, only about 15% stiffer. They give a very slightly harder pull but usually cure the slip so I'm OK with it.
Yes, the Barnett springs are the stiffest aftermarket ones you can get, something like 43% stiffer I think. I use EBC or Vesrah, only about 15% stiffer. They give a very slightly harder pull but usually cure the slip so I'm OK with it.
Maybe it was Wisconsinese?
I think I’ll hunt for a set of EBC’s. I’d alternate the Barnett but I’m not sure of the condition of my stock springs.
Well, considering how stiff the Barnett springs are, it would probably be a good thing if your originals were a bit sacked out and weak.
yeah weak humor.
I first did the alternate spring thing with Barnetts on a bike in the 70's for the same reason as you. It worked fine. Tried 3 and 3 (EBC think) on madness, but that clutch was past it's due date and not up to 750cc duty, it continued to slip, even when I went to all 6 EBC, finally itgot the 8 plate conversion, that was three years ago? It's been rock solid since, with reasonable, though firmer, lever action.
