Heavy Metal. Rust Removal and plating

Nice work Jim! I was inspired by those videos you posted, and since I’ve always wanted to try electroplating I just went ahead and made a set up. Attached is a photo of a socket head screw that was originally black oxide coated, and is now nickel plated. 45 minute bath. My solution is very green at this point. Thinking about plating the hardware and engine brackets (at least) for a Honda XR75 project I’m working on.
 

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Jim said:
Nice Anders!!! Did you remove the black oxide first or plate over it?
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Removed it first with a diluted acid bath, but not thoroughly enough. Some of it sloughed off in my solution and you can see the result is not exactly shiny. It was my first go though so I’m hopeful for better results as I tweek it.
 
To agitate the solution I used a aquarium bubbler. it worked well.
Plating is more efficient with a warm solution and again an aquarium heater works well.
My next plan was to make a long bath from a pre pasted wall paper soaking tray.
However after seeing the results from nickel I am having a rethink.
 
I think this nickel system will be pretty easy to master. One of the reasons I wanted to learn it is for all the hardware and brackets going into the speed twin tribute bike. From what I understand, stuff was mostly nickel plated back in that era. It'll give it more of a period correctness.... and you can't argue with the cost. Nickel strips (50 count), clips, vinegar and acid has me at about 20 bucks in... should be enough for several bikes.
 
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Signal said:
Jim that's a inexpensive set up where did you source the nickel?
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Amazon. They're made for soldering battery packs, but they're 99.6% pure just like the plating anode stuff for sale 'cept cheaper. Thought I only paid 8 bucks but it's now showing $13. Still, 50 pieces of .2mm will last a long time considerin' the "plating out" session used the most of it.

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Jim that brass strip looks good.
In the first photo it looks like the current might be a bit high, but it did clean up alright so probably ok , but you could experiment with that.
Zinc goes black and won't stick if the current is too high.

One thing I found with zinc is that it didn't throw very well. Plating the inside of tubes was difficult and I resorted to balancing an strip of anode inside the object.
I read that if you imagine the ions flowing like magnetic field strength lines from a bar magnet it sort of resembles what happens.
Soon you will be scouring the workshop for things to plate thats if your'e not doing that already. Continue the research.
 
Signal said:
In the first photo it looks like the current might be a bit high, but it did clean up alright so probably ok , but you could experiment with that.
Click to expand...
Yeah. I think I'll hook up the ammeter and watch as I add salt. I'll play with a 150-200Ma solution, then step it up to 300-400Ma. I'm a ways away from needing it, so plenty of time to experiment.... and vinegar is dirt cheap.
 
Just some comments on rust removal:
  • Hydrochloric Acid also known as Muriatic Acid: Very effective for rust removal but leaves the part contaminated with chloride ions. If not thoroughly cleaned any remaining Chloride ions will facilitate further corrosion.
  • Electrolysis: As mentioned in the video use washing soda (Sodium Carbonate). This becomes the electrolyte to more efficiently conduct a current through water. Do not use Sodium Chloride as hinted to because it will leave chloride ions on the steel which will facilitate corrosion later on. It is very hard to remove chloride contamination, requires thorough cleaning. In the video the nut was left black and the guy scrubbed it off with a small brush. When you remove rust from a fuel tank by electrolysis most of the black oxide coating comes off. Any remaining is very easily/quickly removed with citric acid solution. My Virago tank, which was very rusty, took approximately 24 hours of electrolysis time and required electrode cleaning every 2 hours.
  • I have seen someone use Molasses dissolved in water to remove rust from tanks. It was extremely good but took several days. Has anyone tried Molasses????
Molasses Link: https://www.jockeyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=42508

When removing rust from tanks it is best to remove the petrol cock and blank the hole off. The alloy on the petrol cock will be damaged by some rust removal techniques.

I must have a go at plating. I have lots of small parts that want to be shiny again like their friends.
 
Comments:
  1. Once the tank has the rust removed why not give the inside a plating to protect the steel e.g. Zinc, Copper or Nickel????
  2. In the last couple of years I have read many comments saying to only use Nickel that is electrode grade (Edit: Plating Grade or Nickel Plating Electrode). Other grades of Nickel contain impurities that will lead to a dull finish????
 
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And if you do cadmium, take the necessary precautions (just short of "Hot Zone"). That stuff is highly toxic! "Cad" plating is used a lot in electronics. It offers corrosion resistance and decreased electrical resistance, making it good for a component chassis (something you would want to ground to...).
 
Slight detour back to tank internal plating. Todays study at home indicates that the way to do this well is not by electro-plating but a process known as ENP or EN Plating or Electroless Nickel Plating. It does not involve electricity, rather a chemical solution that deposits Nickel on a clean steel surface. If interested in this method just Google or Youtube "EN Plating".
 

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