Hello I'm Jeremy new to the motorcycle life.i just bought and old 78 xs650 and it needs a lot of work.

You'll need sprockets as well. I can see the teeth on your front sprocket are worn down to little nubs, lol. They should look more like this .....

View attachment 209498

If your front is that bad, chances are the rear is even worse (fronts last longer). You might want to change the gearing slightly. Stick with a stock 17T size on the front but get a 32T (2 smaller than stock 34) for the rear.
Ok thanks
 
In my humble opinion, I don't think its worthwhile to check the compression at this point.
If you can get it running, then we can say that it has adequate compression.
An accurate compression test can be made after the bike has been run for quite awhile, and is warm.
This test is most valuable for a comparison of the left to right numbers; a big difference suggests that you might have an issue.

If you can't get it running after trying everything, then a cold compression test might give you an idea of what might be wrong.
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Yeah, I could have said that better. What I meant was does it "have compression." As in... are the valves stuck (rusted) open... does a piston have a hole in it? No need to actually measure compression... on the other hand, trying to start it with "no compression" is just pissin' in the wind. You really need to kick the motor over and see that it's not locked up and has, at least... some compression.
 
A bit more context on Jim's and Yamdudes posts. .............If the engine has been sitting for a long time there is a possibility a valve could be stuck, stuck piston or worse as Jim points out a holed piston. (never know what, or why, a bike has been left sitting), just to be cautious before turning it over take the plugs out and squirt a little mixture of a lubricant into the plug hole. Lots of different types you can use, a little diesel oil, thin oil from a sewing machine or airgun oil, or some motor oil thinned out......Lube............... Turn the engine slowly using the kick start or a socket on the crank nut, (under the left side engine cover). Go slow and feel for the piston to hit on the valve if it is stuck. if you kick it over heavy footed and a valve is stuck then you will cause damage. If the bike turns over a couple of times then all should be good................Can shine a light into the spark plug hole and look at the piston tops as it comes up to TDC. Can see the bore as well so look for a lip or wear on the barrels. Gives you an idea of their condition.
 
Found easy to use self sealing wire connectors that you simply heat with a heat gun or the wife's hair-dryer. After inserting the wires the built in solder fuses the wires and the heat shrink cover seals the connection watertight. No crimping needed . Lot's of different brands on E Bay and Amazon etc. I just replaced the wiring harness and they made it straightforward. Hope this helps.
 
I bought an SG a couple of years ago that had been sitting for over 30 years. It was in a little better shape than yours, but I fixed everything and put 2500 miles on it last summer. Before I did anything, I made sure I had a viable engine. Turn the engine over with the kickstarter by hand and make sure it goes at least 2 revolutions, assuming it's not locked up. Once you do that, give it several hard kicks to make sure it has good compression. If it does, you probably have a viable engine and can continue with repairing everything that needs it. My wiring was a mess from the previous owner, so sorting that out was the hardest part, and I have a degree in electrical engineering. But I got it sorted and got spark, so I squirted some gas down the carbs and got it to fire off a few times. That gave me the go-ahead to put some money into doing the rest of the work. And I had a blast last summer, and never once did she leave me stranded.

I have since bought 3 more in various stages of repair and condition. Looking forward to getting 2 of them running and riding, the 3rd will be for the engine and other parts.
 
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Yeah, I could have said that better. What I meant was does it "have compression." As in... are the valves stuck (rusted) open... does a piston have a hole in it? No need to actually measure compression... on the other hand, trying to start it with "no compression" is just pissin' in the wind. You really need to kick the motor over and see that it's not locked up and has, at least... some compression.
I can kick it over so that's something
 
Josey90 there is one thing that was never discussed or mentioned but how much of the repair and resto are you confident in doing yourself? Knowing that will greatly help in how information is presented.
 
The wiring in your harness doesn't look that bad, just the plugs need replacing. If you got a new harness, that would only get you half the plugs you need, the ones on the components that plug into the harness would still need replacing. So, I think a plug kit from Vintage Connections (that includes their nice crimping tool) would be the way to go. It should be a little cheaper than getting a new harness and you'll gain that nice crimper for any future work or repairs. You may not need to replace many of the crimps, just stick them in new plugs.
 
Does anyone have the wiring harness for this or wiring connectors that aren't busted
I just ordered connectors from Mikes XS. I need to hook up a brake light circuit to the M/C and install a horn. PM me you address and I will send what is left over. I had to order metric round male and female (I think) for the brake light hook up and female spade to connect the switch in the M/C.
 
Chrome looks pretty nice for a bike that appears to have been stored in less than stellar conditions. Other than what looks like a little battery puke on the rear of the frame paint is not bad. Cleaning things is a good activity while waiting on parts.
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That's not a sprocket. Just a little ease on the chain tension and that becomes a clutch. Roll on throttle and the chain starts jumping teeth like a ratchet. Don't ask how I know these things😎
 
In my humble opinion, I don't think its worthwhile to check the compression at this point.
If you can get it running, then we can say that it has adequate compression.
An accurate compression test can be made after the bike has been run for quite awhile, and is warm.
This test is most valuable for a comparison of the left to right numbers; a big difference suggests that you might have an issue.

If you can't get it running after trying everything, then a cold compression test might give you an idea of what might be wrong.
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Got the bike to turn over today need to get the tank cleaned out to see if it will start with enough fuel
 
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