Help with Caliper Rebuild

Thank you for this info and this link for banggood 5twins.

I had previously ordered and installed XS650Direct/MikesXS 41" stainless brake line on my 77D that "Fits: 77-84 XS650's" and at 41" it's way too long. I know, measure.....well I measured 3 times before ordering, knew it would be too long, but I ordered anyway thinking maybe I could use a lower tree clamp as you have shown and hide the rest behind the headlamp bucket. The problem with that is the extra line is in danger of getting caught on the steering lock assembly, not a good thing. So had to take up the excess with extra clamps on the bottom of the tach/speedo mount bolts. Still looked sloppy and wasn't happy with it.

Ordered one of these at $7.95 CDA with free shipping. Order came today (one of the quickest deliveries I have received and coming from Hong Kong that's saying something)
Did a quick clamp up test fit and it's perfect.

Thank you again for this link and as well for all your help both directly and indirectly.
Please let us know how the line mounts up and more importantly, how it holds up in use. It's just so darn cheap. Let's just hope the fittings don't pop off the ends or something, lol.
Will do. I know the price threw me off as well, but figured it was worth trying, not a lot to lose if junk. However it certainly appears be to all that the other line I purchased was. Might not be quite long enough to use your modded bracket trick but a clamp on the right side of the right lower tree hole like pamcopete used might just do the trick.


From this thread:

Will update when installed and some some pressure applied. Thanks again.
Hey Mackels. Didn't do an update as the bike won't be on the road till next spring so couldn't road test. But what I can say is that the line appears to be just fine.
The length is just right as compared to other unnamed suppliers and the quality is all that theirs are if not even better. As mentioned by 5twins the orientation of the fittings is good as well.
So, no leaks so far and I have been applying pressure often to test. Bungee corded brake lever on and left for a few days and all's good.
I would recommend this part.
Good luck with your install.
Just saw this update by gggGary and thought I'd add a comment as well.

2400 miles on the Banggood brake line mentioned in posts #21, 23 & 25. No problems whatsoever. Nice one finger braking.
I finished renovating the front brake on the $200 Special. I was surprised the MC was quite clean inside, no crud build-up just really dirty fluid. The caliper, on the other hand, was pretty bad, really stuck big time. As Gary mentioned all the rubber components were still good, but the piston was badly pitted. So, I went in search of a better piston from one of my parts stash calipers. Many of those turned out to be pretty bad too but I did find a fairly good one to use. What I also discovered was some of the parts caliper piston seals were bad, all dented and dimpled from sitting assembled in a seal groove full of dried brake fluid crust. What I learned from this is I should be pulling these things apart when I get them, not after they've sat around in a box several years longer, lol.

So, say you find a bad seal, just buy a rebuild kit, right? But, if all you need is the seal, why pay $20 to $25 for a kit including other parts you don't need? Yamaha never sold just the seal, only a kit. Recently, a guy on the forum rebuilt his caliper and was able to get just a seal from a local brake place. They told him it was a common seal and a common size. Unfortunately, he failed to pass that size on to us. So, I started doing some research. Basically, this is nothing more than a 3mm square o-ring with a 38mm I.D. (to fit a 38mm piston). Yes, the rubber is special, brake fluid compatible. Turns out, many other bike manufacturers have used this size caliper on some model or another. Also turns out some of them (Suzuki, Kawasaki) sell just the seal. Suzuki is a few dollars cheaper than Kawasaki and I plan on getting one with my next parts order to check it out .....


A little over $5 sure beats $20 to $25.
If you get one before I do, please report back on how it fits/works. I'm like 99% sure this is the seal we need for the '77 and newer calipers but we won't know 100% until somebody actually tries one.
I thought I'd add a couple updates here. I recently installed one of those 32" lines on a Special with Euro bars. It worked but really could have been a few inches longer. I wasn't able to route the line between the headlight brackets behind the light as usual. I had to run it down the side outside the trees .....


I think the problem was the Special headlight ears. They attach higher than the Standard ones (see mine 3 posts up) which doesn't give as much room between them and behind the headlight for cable routing. So, a line a few inches longer would probably be better, at least on a Special.

Well, I found one, and the deal is so good I almost thought it might be a scam. But I took a chance and ordered one anyway. It came and it is very nice, even vinyl coated. And the price is just down right amazing - $5.99 !!

The 90cm length is about 35.4", a few inches longer and should be ideal. Another "plus" is the banjo fittings are attached 90° to one another so you don't have to put a twist in the line when mounting.

5T, on the s/s replacement lines I've put on my 650 and Virago, the banjo fittings are "twistable" - shouldn't ever have to twist the line.
I was wondering if anyone could point me to a caliper rebuild how to for a 1978 xs650. My front brakes stopped releasing out of the blue. Tried cleaning out the reservoir and flushing the brake system without results, so my next step will be to try and rebuild the caliper. I've used the search feature on the forum, searched google, and youtube and no one seems to have done a how to that I can find. I don't want to buy the rebuild kit and take everything apart only to discover I'm missing some essential tool or part. I've never disassembled a caliper before and don't want to go into it blind.

Thanks in advance!
I have found most of the time brakes not releasing is down to the master cylinder. Not only does the piston produce pressure it also produces a vacuum to relax the pressure and release the pads.
You can check this easy by removing the master cylinder from the bars and check with a finger over the outlet you should feel pressure when the lever is actuated and when the lever is released you should feel a slight vacuum .
Rebuilding the caliper should it be needed is very straightforward, you can complete the job in about an hour.